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Tank Flush Dribble

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@MapNerd @Neal … just a question. Before you disconnect the hose, do you first drain the system using this valve?? It dumps under the coach.

FLSteve
Nope. I don't have that valve. This is the kind of stuff that really irks me about Newmar. They clearly knew this was an issue as a solution to resolve it was implemented on DSDP+ lines way back in 2018 at least. It probably costs a whopping 18 cents in parts (considering their purchasing power) and 5 minutes in additional labor. Yet they hold back on something so simple for the lower lines. So in order to buy a coach that would not drench my wetbay every time I rinsed, I would've needed to spend an extra $70k.
 
Can't wait to see your mod to add one :) If you're going to have the wet bay panel off this would not be a hard mod to add. You can get the rotary knob from Newmar parts, the rest is just pex tubing and connectors. For example put in a T-connector that goes to the drain rinse connection and then to a new down tube with the on/off knob. After turning off the black tank rinse and prior to disconnecting open the valve which will drain the line, close the knob and disconnect. This would be cool for @redbaron to automate with an electric on/off valve in his automated dump/flush system :)
 
Can't wait to see your mod to add one.
Yep. It's been added to the list of things to change in the wetbay. At some point I'll be able to get out of the mockup phase and into the doing phase.
 
When is NC software going to open the “we do mods division”? Build it and they will come...
 
When is NC software going to open the “we do mods division”? Build it and they will come...

The biggest problem is the addiction vs. service issue. My therapist that finally tapered off my mods via electric shock is concerned about such a venture. Me love some mods!

I know @Chuggs and I would love to help with solar installs, that's almost fun! :) The LED lighting was a bit more painful, I hate running wires!

The wet bay stuff was fun too other than the constant puzzle of pex and fittings, diameters, crimps, etc. I despised the Lowes/HD runs trying to solve the plumbing puzzles with the mix of everything Newmar uses. I could not have figured out the electricals (relays, latching controllers, diodes, zeners, etc.) without @Chuggs and @Stuart S - huge help in my project which I love love love (drainmaster, sanicon, all from the inside).
 
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I have been working on jeep mods. So much easier to gain access to than the dutchstar!

I should be done.with the jeep in the next 2 weeks, and return to the dutchstar tank system. I have a few people on the beta list, and plan on documenting the requirements for the full install soon.

2019 DSDP 4369 * Active Air * NHSO
 
@MapNerd @Neal … just a question. Before you disconnect the hose, do you first drain the system using this valve?? It dumps under the coach.

FLSteve


View attachment 659


Hmmm, so you have an interesting setup. You're using on-board water pump (or city) pressure run through that faucet to rinse your tank? My instant thought, was that it's not nearly the amount of pressure or flow as would with a direct hookup to the spigot.

Do tell, please!?

I've retrofitted my whole operation with Quick-Connects and MAN does it make things fast and easy. But, like ya'll...I've got post-disconnect drip that I'm working on. Caps, plugs, and loops for now.
 
Quick update on this for me. After removing the check valve I had on my rinse hose, no more spillage. I just disconnect at the spigot, let water drain from the hose and then disconnect from the rinse valve.
 
It seems that you wouldn't need to remove the check valve as the same steps would yield the same results? The check valve isn't needed, I use one too for paranoia. In fact I did a rinse last night and could smell black tank smell so it may stop fluid but not stop the gasses. This was discussed long ago on the other forum when I mentioned this concern of plumbing a permanent line to the black tank rinse that you still have gasses to worry about.
 
Hmmm, so you have an interesting setup. You're using on-board water pump (or city) pressure run through that faucet to rinse your tank? My instant thought, was that it's not nearly the amount of pressure or flow as would with a direct hookup to the spigot.

Do tell, please!?

I've retrofitted my whole operation with Quick-Connects and MAN does it make things fast and easy. But, like ya'll...I've got post-disconnect drip that I'm working on. Caps, plugs, and loops for now.

I don't have the setup like you as you have a dedicated black tank rinse drain. I would think your procedure would be to do the black tank rinse, shut off the water source for the rinse, then open the black tank rinse drain? I'd think that would just reroute the "dribble" out that plumbing instead of your connection point. Again, don't know, I don't have that feature.
 

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