Tank Flush Dribble

[redbaron]

I have been working on jeep mods. So much easier to gain access to than the dutchstar!

I should be done.with the jeep in the next 2 weeks, and return to the dutchstar tank system. I have a few people on the beta list, and plan on documenting the requirements for the full install soon.

2019 DSDP 4369 * Active Air * NHSO

 

[CaptainGizmo]

@MapNerd @Neal … just a question. Before you disconnect the hose, do you first drain the system using this valve?? It dumps under the coach.

FLSteve


View attachment 659

Hmmm, so you have an interesting setup. You're using on-board water pump (or city) pressure run through that faucet to rinse your tank? My instant thought, was that it's not nearly the amount of pressure or flow as would with a direct hookup to the spigot.

Do tell, please!?

I've retrofitted my whole operation with Quick-Connects and MAN does it make things fast and easy. But, like ya'll...I've got post-disconnect drip that I'm working on. Caps, plugs, and loops for now.

 

[MapNerd]

Quick update on this for me. After removing the check valve I had on my rinse hose, no more spillage. I just disconnect at the spigot, let water drain from the hose and then disconnect from the rinse valve.

 

[Neal]

It seems that you wouldn't need to remove the check valve as the same steps would yield the same results? The check valve isn't needed, I use one too for paranoia. In fact I did a rinse last night and could smell black tank smell so it may stop fluid but not stop the gasses. This was discussed long ago on the other forum when I mentioned this concern of plumbing a permanent line to the black tank rinse that you still have gasses to worry about.

 

[Neal]

Hmmm, so you have an interesting setup. You're using on-board water pump (or city) pressure run through that faucet to rinse your tank? My instant thought, was that it's not nearly the amount of pressure or flow as would with a direct hookup to the spigot.

Do tell, please!?

I've retrofitted my whole operation with Quick-Connects and MAN does it make things fast and easy. But, like ya'll...I've got post-disconnect drip that I'm working on. Caps, plugs, and loops for now.

I don't have the setup like you as you have a dedicated black tank rinse drain. I would think your procedure would be to do the black tank rinse, shut off the water source for the rinse, then open the black tank rinse drain? I'd think that would just reroute the "dribble" out that plumbing instead of your connection point. Again, don't know, I don't have that feature.

 

[MapNerd]

So my setup was:
Spigot > Rinse hose > Check valve > tank rinse valve > Newmar’s Check Vave > Black tank

My procedure was:
Connect rinse hose to spigot
Connect rinse hose with check valve to tank rinse valve
Turn on water at spigot and set timer to 3m
Open black tank gate when timer expires
Close black tank when empty
Repeat until water runs clear
Turn off water at spigot
Disconnect rinse hose from spigot
Walk the hose to let water drain into grass
Disconnect rinse hose with check valve from tank rinse vavle
Curse when water pours from the tank rinse valve into my wetbay drain pan

Now my set up is:
Spigot > Rinse hose > tank rinse valve > Newmar’s check valve > Black tank

Procedure is the same except because I no longer have a check valve on the end of my rinse hose connecting to the tank rinse valve, there’s no water spilling out of the tank rinse when I disconnect.

 

[Neal]

I'm going to try removing the paranoia valve - thanks @MapNerd

 

[MapNerd]

Obviously in my case, the water spilling out was being trapped between my check valve and Newmar’s built in check valve. No water pressure to push it past Newmar’s check valve, my check valve preventing it from draining back out through the hose.

Also, fwiw, I’ve never had sewer smells in my wetbay except for when connecting/disconnecting the sewage hose.

If you’re getting that from your black tank rinse, I would think adding a second check valve inline after your tank rinse valve would solve for that as you would essentially be creating an inline trap.

 

[CaptainGizmo]

I don't have the setup like you as you have a dedicated black tank rinse drain. I would think your procedure would be to do the black tank rinse, shut off the water source for the rinse, then open the black tank rinse drain? I'd think that would just reroute the "dribble" out that plumbing instead of your connection point. Again, don't know, I don't have that feature.

Yeah. Never thought to use that Drain but stoked to find out!


My question is how could you adequately flush the tank using that kitchen valve setup? It’s not that much flow or pressure.


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[CaptainGizmo]

BEHOLD....a Dribble Fixer!

$7.00 At Home Depot.

 

[FLSteve]

My question is how could you adequately flush the tank using that kitchen valve setup? It’s not that much flow or pressure.
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@CaptainGizmo ... I think what I am doing is just getting some clean water into the back tank so it fills up some and then letting it "self flush". The shower spigot does have enough flow to do that. After several times of doing just that fairly clear water seems to be running out. I do not use a macerator as I have the big 3" hose ... so it flows out fast.

FLSteve

 

[Old-RV'er]

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006MTRCY/?tag=rvf01-20
Normally I use a Y splitter so I can have regulator on City Water side separate to waste flush side. Then I put the above on the other side of the splitter, with a regulator for my flush hose. Newmar recommends (in more than one place) to not exceed 60PSI city water pressure, this also applies to the flush system. The backflow preventer above does exactly that, prevents backflow into my splitter, and into the city water system. Yes, there is a check valve on the flush out port, it will leak some. I let my hose drain on the ground (since the check valve prevents contaminated water from getting into the hose and on the ground once pressure has relaxed), once it has drained some, I disconnect it from the coach, and I might get 1/4 cup on the floor of the compartment. I surely don't get your quantity, some leakage is normal. I suspect your check valve might not be sealing back correctly, you can check by taking out the washer and looking into it, you should see the stud for the check valve, push on it some and see if it feels like it is seating normally. FWIW-With the Y splitter on the faucet, I do turn of the supply to the house, so no bad water gets into the house side of the system. Sometimes I disconnect the Y and go directly from City Water, but always use the backflow preventer w/regulator. I then take a Lysol clean wipe and clean the faucet for 30 seconds of so just to be absolutely sure no contamination has or will get into my water system.

As an aside, it's recommended to sanitize all fresh water systems in RV at least every 6 months. A variety of ways exist to do this, chlorine bleach, or other products exist which do the same things. One company says their product can be used to "sweeten" the fresh water system with no adverse affects to using water while its working. I flush the system anyway. Trust me, you will only get the sceeming xxxx's once from bad water before you are on top of it all the time. www.3rpurogene.com/