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Question 2004 Pace Arrow 36B bad running 8.1 Vortec

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For some reason, I was thinking yours still had a single coil. Sorry. From your symptoms it still sounds like a bad coil (s).
Some cylinders misfiring on a engine will affect the engine more than other cylinders. It's has do do with the was cylinders are phased in the firing order.
A bad coil(s) on yours could still very well be the problem.
These are kinda hard to diagnosis, but if you have a catalytic converter stopping up, it may act like your problem. Someone that has a scan tool and knows how to read the live data can usually look at the O2 sensor data and determine if a converter is stopped up. Not always, but often it will throw a code of "low efficacy" for the converter, ( though that tends to be another problem than a bad converter)
Another possibility, if you have trash in your fuel tank, while you drive, sometimes debris will be sucked up around the screen for the fuel line and starve the engine for fuel. You stop and it falls away. You usually have to drop the tank and clean it out if that is the case. I don't think this is your problem though.

Here is what I would do.
Replace the coil you saw arcing.
Add 4 or 5 cans of Seafoam if your 1/2 a tank or more fuel of fuel. This will help eliminate water AND clean the injectors. 1 can will not do anything in that big of tank.
If it still acts up, Get someone to scan the system and look at the individual cylinder misfire chart.
Say #8 shows miss fires.
Plug the plug Does it look fouled (black carboned up, wet)
You said you replace the wires. (hope the were the cheapest Autozone ones). They are crap. You may have fixed the problem with wires and just need to replace plug that was damaged by bad wire or coil.
Any cylinder that shows a misfire in the data chart needs attention.

The things that affect a cylinder fire are: (Keeping in mind your symptoms) Runs ok for a while starts missing pulling grades, looses power, stop cool off and runs ok a while
Spark Plug
Spark plug wire
Coil
Fuel injector.

Missing pulling a grade means some thing in the electrical side of the ignition is breaking down under a load. Plugs, wires, coil
Fuel starvation might also cause it. Maybe
O2 sensors should be reading "lean" if this is the case.
Did you replace the fuel filter?
Do that if not. Those filters are good for a max of 30,000 miles. Crappy gas, 12,000 miles or less.

As diagnostic scan to will tell a tech where to look if they know how to read the data.
Without throwing a lot of parts that are not needed. It's sad but there seem to be less and less Techs that know how to properly diagnose problems today.
They see a code and throw a part at it.
 
You can throw a lot of cash at it if you want. Have you yet put a code reader on the rig yet? driving into an auto parts store and they will do it for free. Codes are a tool not an answer however missing will show with the code reader and tell you what cylinder is the problem. It won't tell you if the coil,wire,spark plug, or low voltage wire or computer. however it is the way to reduce the amount of funds you throw at it.
 
For some reason, I was thinking yours still had a single coil. Sorry. From your symptoms it still sounds like a bad coil (s).
Some cylinders misfiring on a engine will affect the engine more than other cylinders. It's has do do with the was cylinders are phased in the firing order.
A bad coil(s) on yours could still very well be the problem.
These are kinda hard to diagnosis, but if you have a catalytic converter stopping up, it may act like your problem. Someone that has a scan tool and knows how to read the live data can usually look at the O2 sensor data and determine if a converter is stopped up. Not always, but often it will throw a code of "low efficacy" for the converter, ( though that tends to be another problem than a bad converter)
Another possibility, if you have trash in your fuel tank, while you drive, sometimes debris will be sucked up around the screen for the fuel line and starve the engine for fuel. You stop and it falls away. You usually have to drop the tank and clean it out if that is the case. I don't think this is your problem though.

Here is what I would do.
Replace the coil you saw arcing.
Add 4 or 5 cans of Seafoam if your 1/2 a tank or more fuel of fuel. This will help eliminate water AND clean the injectors. 1 can will not do anything in that big of tank.
If it still acts up, Get someone to scan the system and look at the individual cylinder misfire chart.
Say #8 shows miss fires.
Plug the plug Does it look fouled (black carboned up, wet)
You said you replace the wires. (hope the were the cheapest Autozone ones). They are crap. You may have fixed the problem with wires and just need to replace plug that was damaged by bad wire or coil.
Any cylinder that shows a misfire in the data chart needs attention.

The things that affect a cylinder fire are: (Keeping in mind your symptoms) Runs ok for a while starts missing pulling grades, looses power, stop cool off and runs ok a while
Spark Plug
Spark plug wire
Coil
Fuel injector.

Missing pulling a grade means some thing in the electrical side of the ignition is breaking down under a load. Plugs, wires, coil
Fuel starvation might also cause it. Maybe
O2 sensors should be reading "lean" if this is the case.
Did you replace the fuel filter?
Do that if not. Those filters are good for a max of 30,000 miles. Crappy gas, 12,000 miles or less.

As diagnostic scan to will tell a tech where to look if they know how to read the data.
Without throwing a lot of parts that are not needed. It's sad but there seem to be less and less Techs that know how to properly diagnose problems today.
They see a code and throw a part at it.
Yes I think the two O2 sensors may have been a waste of money, I just put the coil on but won't know if it improves the situation until I drive it for awhile, I think I'll replace the plugs while I'm at it, the plug wires are Napa premium, Belden wires. I appreciate your advice.
 
Wish I could be more concrete about suggestions, but without being there, I just having go off past experience.
 
Wish I could be more concrete about suggestions, but without being there, I just having go off past experience.
I appreciate the input, I have an appointment for August 4th, but I disconnected the battery when I installed the coil, now the check engine light is off, may have cleared the fault codes ?
 
I appreciate the input, I have an appointment for August 4th, but I disconnected the battery when I installed the coil, now the check engine light is off, may have cleared the fault codes ?
Possibly, but not usually.
 
Have you made any progress with your problem?
 
Have you made any progress with your problem?
Not much, I replaced the plug wires, one coil, added heat socks, waiting until my appointment to get the fuel pressure/pump checked, I'm afraid to test drive it far enough to get it nice and warm to see if the bad coil was the problem, I could see it arcing at night with the doghouse cover off. I have an appointment August 4th
 
Just a follow up on my engine misfire issue, everything checked out good at the shop, except one plug wire had come loose, the computer showed 1239 misfires, it looks like the coil I replaced was the original problem, not the plug wires. I have 57500 miles on this motorhome, should I replace all of the coils now or just wait and see ? They checked fuel pressure, MAF sensor, and all was good.
 
Just a question...was it hard to access the plugs ? I need to change mine (and wires as well) and although I haven't taken off the doghouse cover yet I thought I'd ask someone that just went through it ? Any advice?
 
Just a follow up on my engine misfire issue, everything checked out good at the shop, except one plug wire had come loose, the computer showed 1239 misfires, it looks like the coil I replaced was the original problem, not the plug wires. I have 57500 miles on this motorhome, should I replace all of the coils now or just wait and see ? They checked fuel pressure, MAF sensor, and all was good.
I wouldn't replace all of the coils. They are pretty reliable. And expensive if you do all of them. If you do decided to replace all of them, spend money on good parts like delco, delphi, NAPA Echlin, or Standard. Those are about the only brands I would trust. They control a lot of voltage thousands a time a minute and cheap part will fail pretty quick. They may come with a life time warranty, but you may spend a life time replacing them frequently. No fun when your broke down far from home.
 
Just a follow up on my engine misfire issue, everything checked out good at the shop, except one plug wire had come loose, the computer showed 1239 misfires, it looks like the coil I replaced was the original problem, not the plug wires. I have 57500 miles on this motorhome, should I replace all of the coils now or just wait and see ? They checked fuel pressure, MAF sensor, and all was good.
Sounds like you found the problem. My thoughts on replacing the coils is this. Many coils last well over 150000 miles without a hitch. If you are concerned buy one spare and put it in your junk drawer. Also buy a code reader so you can trouble shoot the problem code on the road. It is likely not going to be the same problem next time around. As @DHudson said, there is no saving buying cheap parts, NAPA sells quality parts, and can be found almost anywhere.
 
Just a question...was it hard to access the plugs ? I need to change mine (and wires as well) and although I haven't taken off the doghouse cover yet I thought I'd ask someone that just went through it ? Any advice?
Mine is not too bad, some are best from the top (inside), and some from the bottom, I use my front jacks to raise for a little more room underneath, I also added some heat shield boots to the wires as mine have burned several times in the past.
 
Sounds like you found the problem. My thoughts on replacing the coils is this. Many coils last well over 150000 miles without a hitch. If you are concerned buy one spare and put it in your junk drawer. Also buy a code reader so you can trouble shoot the problem code on the road. It is likely not going to be the same problem next time around. As @DHudson said, there is no saving buying cheap parts, NAPA sells quality parts, and can be found almost anywhere.
The coil I bought was from AutoZone, Duralast brand ? Good or not ? I will take your advice and buy a spare, and of good quality for sure

Thanks
 

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