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Question 2004 Pace Arrow 36B bad running 8.1 Vortec

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I appreciate the input, I have an appointment for August 4th, but I disconnected the battery when I installed the coil, now the check engine light is off, may have cleared the fault codes ?
Possibly, but not usually.
 
Have you made any progress with your problem?
 
Have you made any progress with your problem?
Not much, I replaced the plug wires, one coil, added heat socks, waiting until my appointment to get the fuel pressure/pump checked, I'm afraid to test drive it far enough to get it nice and warm to see if the bad coil was the problem, I could see it arcing at night with the doghouse cover off. I have an appointment August 4th
 
Just a follow up on my engine misfire issue, everything checked out good at the shop, except one plug wire had come loose, the computer showed 1239 misfires, it looks like the coil I replaced was the original problem, not the plug wires. I have 57500 miles on this motorhome, should I replace all of the coils now or just wait and see ? They checked fuel pressure, MAF sensor, and all was good.
 
Just a question...was it hard to access the plugs ? I need to change mine (and wires as well) and although I haven't taken off the doghouse cover yet I thought I'd ask someone that just went through it ? Any advice?
 
Just a follow up on my engine misfire issue, everything checked out good at the shop, except one plug wire had come loose, the computer showed 1239 misfires, it looks like the coil I replaced was the original problem, not the plug wires. I have 57500 miles on this motorhome, should I replace all of the coils now or just wait and see ? They checked fuel pressure, MAF sensor, and all was good.
I wouldn't replace all of the coils. They are pretty reliable. And expensive if you do all of them. If you do decided to replace all of them, spend money on good parts like delco, delphi, NAPA Echlin, or Standard. Those are about the only brands I would trust. They control a lot of voltage thousands a time a minute and cheap part will fail pretty quick. They may come with a life time warranty, but you may spend a life time replacing them frequently. No fun when your broke down far from home.
 
Just a follow up on my engine misfire issue, everything checked out good at the shop, except one plug wire had come loose, the computer showed 1239 misfires, it looks like the coil I replaced was the original problem, not the plug wires. I have 57500 miles on this motorhome, should I replace all of the coils now or just wait and see ? They checked fuel pressure, MAF sensor, and all was good.
Sounds like you found the problem. My thoughts on replacing the coils is this. Many coils last well over 150000 miles without a hitch. If you are concerned buy one spare and put it in your junk drawer. Also buy a code reader so you can trouble shoot the problem code on the road. It is likely not going to be the same problem next time around. As @DHudson said, there is no saving buying cheap parts, NAPA sells quality parts, and can be found almost anywhere.
 
Just a question...was it hard to access the plugs ? I need to change mine (and wires as well) and although I haven't taken off the doghouse cover yet I thought I'd ask someone that just went through it ? Any advice?
Mine is not too bad, some are best from the top (inside), and some from the bottom, I use my front jacks to raise for a little more room underneath, I also added some heat shield boots to the wires as mine have burned several times in the past.
 
Sounds like you found the problem. My thoughts on replacing the coils is this. Many coils last well over 150000 miles without a hitch. If you are concerned buy one spare and put it in your junk drawer. Also buy a code reader so you can trouble shoot the problem code on the road. It is likely not going to be the same problem next time around. As @DHudson said, there is no saving buying cheap parts, NAPA sells quality parts, and can be found almost anywhere.
The coil I bought was from AutoZone, Duralast brand ? Good or not ? I will take your advice and buy a spare, and of good quality for sure

Thanks
 
The coil I bought was from AutoZone, Duralast brand ? Good or not ? I will take your advice and buy a spare, and of good quality for sure

Thanks
Not because I own a NAPA Store, but because I was a GM Service Manager for 30 + years. Autozone electronics are at the bottom of the barrel as far as quality goes. Oreilly 2nd line not much better, as well as NAPA Mileage Plus.
 
Sounds like you found the problem. My thoughts on replacing the coils is this. Many coils last well over 150000 miles without a hitch. If you are concerned buy one spare and put it in your junk drawer. Also buy a code reader so you can trouble shoot the problem code on the road. It is likely not going to be the same problem next time around. As @DHudson said, there is no saving buying cheap parts, NAPA sells quality parts, and can be found almost anywhere.

Not because I own a NAPA Store, but because I was a GM Service Manager for 30 + years. Autozone electronics are at the bottom of the barrel as far as quality goes. Oreilly 2nd line not much better, as well as NAPA

The coil I bought was from AutoZone, Duralast brand ? Good or not ? I will take your advice and buy a spare, and of good quality for sure

Thanks
Do you think it is better to buy AC Delco ? Or is NAPA just as good ?

Thanks
 
Do you think it is better to buy AC Delco ? Or is NAPA just as good ?

Thanks
AC Delco, Delphi, NAPA Echlin, Standard Ignition , NGK are all good
 
AC Delco, Delphi, NAPA Echlin, Standard Ignition , NGK are all good
I've decided to buy a scan tool, I looked at one my neighbor has and it does not have the Workhorse chasis listed on the menu, I know it's a Chevrolet 496 engine as in the trucks, but will it make a difference in the scan tool function ?

Thanks

John
 
I've decided to buy a scan tool, I looked at one my neighbor has and it does not have the Workhorse chasis listed on the menu, I know it's a Chevrolet 496 engine as in the trucks, but will it make a difference in the scan tool function ?

Thanks

John
OBD2 is fed required, it standardized the port and codes. Only special codes specific to manufactures may vary, and there are only a few, mostly to help trouble shoot. any code can be looked up online so it is not a big deal. Any OBD 2 reader will work for you,
 
OBD2 is fed required, it standardized the port and codes. Only special codes specific to manufactures may vary, and there are only a few, mostly to help trouble shoot. any code can be looked up online so it is not a big deal. Any OBD 2 reader will work for you,
Thanks for the help
 
I've decided to buy a scan tool, I looked at one my neighbor has and it does not have the Workhorse chasis listed on the menu, I know it's a Chevrolet 496 engine as in the trucks, but will it make a difference in the scan tool function ?

Thanks

John
That is basically a Chevy P3500 or P4500 chassis. It "should" work with your vehicle, but can not be sure. I would call the scan manufacture and confirm for sure.
 
I have a fuel pressure gauge hooked up while driving, yesterday we went about 70 miles for a test, no issues on the way, stopped for about 1/2 hour and started back, in about 15 miles it went into limp mode, I pulled over and shut it down and decided to try it again immediately and it started and ran fine, no wait for cool down, tried this twice on the trip home, so apparantly the cool down does nothing, just switch off and on again and the problem stops ? During the whole trip the fuel pressure was between 60 and 64 PSI. I used a scan tool when the check engine light came on and it read weak signal to 02 sensor bank 1, that's the same code we got the last three times at the shop, and they changed out the 02 sensor to no avail. Any ideas ?

Thanks

John
 
I would not rule out an intake leak. Since only 1 bank is affected, I would start there. Those are known for intake plenum gasket leaks
A code for one bank wont be a MAF sensor as the MAF feeds both banks so...
Maybe change the intake plenum gaskets first , and see if that does it.
Post the code number EXACTLY as it appears . Plenty of O2 sensor codes ,they all mean something a little different
 
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