Welcome to RVForums.com

  • Register now and join the discussion
  • Friendliest RV Community on the web
  • Modern site for PC's, Phones, Tablets - no 3rd party apps required
  • Ask questions, help others, review campgrounds
  • Get the most out of the RV Lifestyle
  • Invite everyone to RVForums.com and let's have fun
  • Commercial/Vendors welcome

2003 Holiday Rambler endeavor no 110 power in front of coach.

Welcome to RVForums.com

  • Register now and join the discussion
  • Modern secure site, no 3rd party apps required
  • Invite your friends and let's have fun
  • Commercial/Vendors welcome
  • Friendliest RV community on the web
No it means there is current there (breaker on)
 
No it means there is current there (breaker on)
But that current isn't getting to the outlets, so doesn't that indicate a short somewhere?
 
But that current isn't getting to the outlets, so doesn't that indicate a short somewhere?
More likely an open, not a short. A short would no allow breaker reset!

As an aside someplace in that rig you should have two master GFICs many outlets can be daisy chained per GFIC, but you should find two masters. (resetable/testable)
 
More likely an open, not a short. A short would no allow breaker reset!

As an aside someplace in that rig you should have two master GFICs many outlets can be daisy chained per GFIC, but you should find two masters. (resetable/testable)
Well so far I ly found one resettable and it won't reset, could have been replaced and the load and line were mixed up?
 
Well so far I ly found one resettable and it won't reset, could have been replaced and the load and line were mixed up?
Look for an appliance that may be causing the problem.
 
I don't understand all the appliances are plug in.
 
Oh, I see what you mean, make sure there are no appliances plugged in to the circuit while testing, well that makes sense.
 
So if I do need to replace the GFI outlet what amps does it need to be, right now have a replacement that is 15 amps how do you figure out what amps that needs to be based on the current shore power of 50 amps?
 
The GFIC rating is based on the amperage it will handle safely. If your breakers are 20 amp the devices/receptacles should be able to handle 20 amps. If the breaker is 15 amps then a 15 amp GFIC will be just fine, however a 20 amp will not hurt anything.

This will be true in anything on the down hill side of any breaker. The breaker protects wires and devices. To small wires or devices can cause a melt down. Small is determined by the breaker/fuse!

Do you get what I'm saying? If not I will try again!
 
The GFIC rating is based on the amperage it will handle safely. If your breakers are 20 amp the devices/receptacles should be able to handle 20 amps. If the breaker is 15 amps then a 15 amp GFIC will be just fine, however a 20 amp will not hurt anything.

This will be true in anything on the down hill side of any breaker. The breaker protects wires and devices. To small wires or devices can cause a melt down. Small is determined by the breaker/fuse!

Do you get what I'm saying? If not I will try again!

I get it, as an example, the refrigerator breaker is 20 amps so in this case the 15 amp GFI outlet would not be enough to protect iit would need to be 20 amp or higher.
 
Last edited:

Latest posts

Latest resources

Back
Top