Thanks Neal...Yes, I also enjoyed the Lars' videos that I watched.Haha, I know how to hide, don't you worry! I absolutely love and swear by the Prusa i3 MK3 (S is now the latest). The MMU2S I added and it's been extremely frustrating, I would avoid that for now. Assembled vs. not. Assembling it will teach you much more about it as you WILL have to disassemble something and fix things, clear clogs, etc. so this will help you learn. Their instructions are outstanding. I opted for the assembled version, I took it out of the box and it was ready to print. @redbaron assembled his so he may be able to provide better feedback on that front.
You will love it, you'll get addicted, apologies in advance. This is the best series, I have only watched some but LARS is amazing:
Haha, it takes time, the learning curve is steep! But it's fun, you'll get it. 1st layer calibrations are an art and they change depending on smooth or textured sheets if you got both. The desired result is a smooth piece of plastic and not ridged, it takes time. I suggest find some 1st layer calibration tests on Thingiverse.com so you have more time to play with the adjustment vs. the default one from Prusa although that's what I end up using now that I have it figured out. Remember this is a hobby thing so it's not science, it's someone invention in progress and they need TLC to work but it's fun to make things.@Neal ...yesterday, after MANY failed “First Layer Calibrations”, I was not very happy with you and this thread. However, things started to come together today and I have successfully printed a couple small test items! Things are looking up...
I think the latch pulls fine but the weight of the hood won't pop out enough to hold the open position. There are bumpers you can adjust be Newmar uses these more for alignment than a spring to keep flush with the left/right body around the hood.Neil, your post begs the question. Does anyone have a problem with pulling the generator release and not getting it to unlatch?