Question Accumulator tank for RV fresh water pump?

[Neal]

I'm pretty much ready to install my accumulator but as I'll be winterizing next week for long term storage I'm going to hold off until ready to resume RVing. Interesting that you need to precharge the reservoir, seems like 30psi is the recommendation. Also may need to check this at times so need to consider a mounting location that allows access to the valve. Hopefully Newmar is educating its customers this is not an install and forget item, it will require maintenance to operate properly.

Directions recommend using a high pressure braided hose so I have some on the way:

Amazon product ASIN B0BZHXS6Y9
I also picked up some more fittings so I'm ready for the task when the time comes. Plumbing is always a puzzle that requires several trips to find fittings so hope I'm armed and ready!

Amazon product ASIN B0CJN2HMWJ Amazon product ASIN B0CJN7SVMZ
Hoping I can install through the shower panel area when removed otherwise I'll have to remove the wet bay board which I'm fine with, not hard, done it before. Again, just need careful attention for future pressure management.

 

[flyboy013]

My former house was on well water which utilized a whole house accumulator tank. It was pretty much a set and forget. I occasionally looked at the attached meter to verify it was properly pressurized, but I never had to adjust it. I would expect the same here. You could extend the schrader valve to a readable location (wet bay panel?) and also use that extension to adjust the pressure if needed. Just a thought.

 

[Neal]

I wonder if the psi of the water from the pump also acts to keep the accumulator pressurized? Good to know it's set and forget.

 

[flyboy013]

The water pump doesn’t act to keep the tank pressurized, it only acts to keep the tank filled. The accumulator needs to have the pressure set such that it is less than the input (water pump and/or city water) otherwise the accumulator tank will not work. The internal diaphragm is pressurized via the schrader valve and must be less than the input pressure in order for the diaphragm to give way to the incoming water that’s filling the tank. The tank will output its water at the set diaphragm pressure or the input pressure if it’s less (in which case it couldn’t fill the tank because the input pressure is less than the diaphragm pressure). The goal is for the tank to be filled at a high pressure and the tank provides a constant pressure to whatever it feeds. For my former house, the well pump was feeding the tank at a much higher pressure. The tank was sized such that it provided a constant pressure for a few minutes before the well pump had to turn on again.

In an ideal situation the accumulator tank would feed the whole coach and be set at 55-60 psi. The water pump would be set at say 65 psi and fill the tank and there would be enough capacity in the tank to minimize how often the pump needed to run.

 

[Neal]

Here is the instruction sheet with the REMCO accumulator I ordered. Bottom of the sheet is the info of interest.

 

[Joe Hogan]

The water pump in the DS does cycle but the accumulator seems to soften the cycles. No water pipe hammering.

 

[Okie]

I have had them on a couple of 5th wheels in the past and I agree with what Joe Hogan said. To me it was well worth the cost and effort installing.

 

[Kevin D Pem]

For the most part they are set and forget. A well sealed valve cap is the answer to longer times between service. If you start getting more pump cycles check the air pressure (with no water pressure).

I have used one for over 7 years without worries. What to expect!

Longer pump life.
Less pump cycling.
Better flow control at faucets, and shower.
I also have the benefit of higher RO filter output! When I am not using the boost pump.