Resolved Block Heater

[RandyB]

2017 Newmar VentanaLE 4037. Cummins. 53,000 miles.
I’ve never used the block heater. It’s always been unplugged. Until today.

No shore power. Generator operating normally. Block heater cord is plugged into receptacle in the electrical cabinet. Circuit breaker in main breaker box is on. Unfortunately I did not have a multimeter or any other means to test for power at receptacle. Load center indicates block heater on, pulling 0 amps. There is no switch on the dash or in the overhead controls.

I suspect that the never-used block heater is kaput. Concur? Advise?

 

[Richpatty]

Ventanas do not have switches.. at least in that model year.

It should be pulling 8-10 amps…

 

[Richpatty]

Are you sure it is pulling 0 amps? Pic?

 

[Neal]

With GEN on are you showing 66A in the progressive EMS? GEN breaker verified ON and not tripped?

 

[RandyB]

Are you sure it is pulling 0 amps? Pic?

Yes, zero amps indicated on the load center, on the same line of test that indicates block heater “on”.

With GEN on are you showing 66A in the progressive EMS? GEN breaker verified ON and not tripped?

Yes, 66 amps available. Both legs are producing voltage. I did not check the gen breaker since it is producing voltage.

 

[Sealyn]

Your looking at the load shedding screen, look at the screen that shows L1 and L2 volts and amps.

 

[RandyB]

Your looking at the load shedding screen, look at the screen that shows L1 and L2 volts and amps.

Yes, that’s right. I was looking at the load shedding page. Thank you. On the page showing loads on line 1 and 2, line 1 is zero, line 2 started at 6 and reducing over time due to the battery charging load.

 

[Sealyn]

Plug a hairdryer (or equivalent) into the block heater receptacle and watch for the load change so you know the circuit is good.

 

[RandyB]

I do appreciate the suggestions. However, with the coach not readily available to apply or confirm the help and with the day ending, I’m not able to follow through. Then, tomorrow’s high in single digits with several inches of snow, I doubt I’ll be able to then either. The good news is that departure day is one week away with highs predicted in the 20’s, so starting should be all right.

Additionally: scratching around and found that Cummins states about 22 ohms of resistance. Ohms law says 120 volts divided by 22 ohms equals 5.45 amps. So, next on the agenda is to check the resistance of the heater at the plug (22ish). While there, check at the plug for voltage (120ish). If all looks good will check the line loads with and without the heater plugged in (delta around 5-6 amps). But all that will have to wait a couple days. I’ll report back my findings, for future readers.

 

[Neal]

I checked where a fuse or breaker would be for this so I looked in the breaker panel in my half bath and there is a breaker for the block heater. May want to have that checked or cycle it if you still have a problem.

 

[RandyB]

I checked where a fuse or breaker would be for this so I looked in the breaker panel in my half bath and there is a breaker for the block heater. May want to have that checked or cycle it if you still have a problem.

That's where mine is too. In the half-bath. It was fully on, but switched off then on again and no change. It seems that this breaker is the only "switch" in the circuit. Nothing in the controls cabinet overhead and nothing on the dashboard. I've only found this breaker and the plug for the recept in the aft driver's side electrical bay where the shore power cord comes in.

Thank You

 

[Chuggs]

You can also use a kill-o-watt plugged I to the pedastle...an extension cord to the block htr plug. I do not know the cutoff...but I believe it is thermostatically controlled. So, if the oil is already above the cutout temp presently...you may not see current draw.

We used our Engine heat via the Oasis this morning. We used Oasis all night...and in the morning about 20 minutes from departure...I turned the pump switch ON. Key ON, and toggled the LBCU to engine temp and saw that it was 131 degrees F. Good to go!

Simple project...pump, hose, hose clamps, spade crimp-on terminals, and a solder in toggle switch. Cycles the engine coolant thru your Oasis heat exchanger to warm the engine. I've never used the block htr...that would require going outside where it's cold..

 

[Richpatty]

You can also use a kill-o-watt plugged I to the pedastle...an extension cord to the block htr plug. I do not know the cutoff...but I believe it is thermostatically controlled. So, if the oil is already above the cutout temp presently...you may not see current draw.

We used our Engine heat via the Oasis this morning. We used Oasis all night...and in the morning about 20 minutes from departure...I turned the pump switch ON. Key ON, and toggled the LBCU to engine temp and saw that it was 131 degrees F. Good to go!

Simple project...pump, hose, hose clamps, spade crimp-on terminals, and a solder in toggle switch. Cycles the engine coolant thru your Oasis heat exchanger to warm the engine. I've never used the block htr...that would require going outside where it's cold..

Thanks Charlie. Where does the pump get installed?

 

[Chuggs]

The distribution module has the wiring already in place. The way my module is oriented…then engine loop is on the left side. I sat the pump on top of the unit…I’ll see if I can locate some links and photos.

 

[Chuggs]

Johnson Pump 3/4 in. CM30P7-1 Centrifugal Pump 10-24504-03 (Same as 10-24489-03 but hardwire version)

This is the pump that I use.

 

[Chuggs]

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/612-R1966ABLKBLKEP

Hose Clamp, LCS, Dia 27mm x 1.6mm, PK10 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M1IVMXM..._sUyKCbSR7GEDE

Johnson Pump 3/4 in. CM30P7-1 Centrifugal Pump 10-24504-03(Same as 10-24489-03 but hardwire version) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0073JNWZ6..._dVyKCbZ04MQN5

ACDelco 16199M Professional 90 Degree Molded Heater Hose https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000C9HJOE..._ZVyKCbCWYBS60

 

[Chuggs]

https://www.mouser.com/datasheet/2/140/R1966ABLKBLKEP-3457614.pdf

This switch is black, no illumination, and has posts which align with the pre drilled holes in the Oasis Remote printed circuit board. Insert solder, clip the excess post…

 

[Chuggs]

 

[Chuggs]

Pump sitting atop the module. The Oasis service manual has a blurb that shows there the coolant hoses and the pump power wiring is located on the left side. You remove the hose and place it on the output of the pump...then use a piece of htr hose with a 90 degree elbow in it to attach the module fitting to the pump intake. You'll find the length required to mate the parts and trim away excess hose...

The pump just has wires...so, you will habe to crimp insulated spade connectors to mate with the Oasis supplied wire bundle.

 

[Richpatty]

Thanks for all of that Charlie. Interesting…. I have the Oasis NE-s which is a large, all-in-one unit without a dist box….so I would need to see where it would go.

Thanks.
Rich