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Resolved Front door lock malfunction

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lostinfla

Professional nobody
RVF Supporter
Joined
Dec 19, 2019
Messages
777
RV Year
2016
RV Make
Newmar
RV Model
Dutch Star
RV Length
37
TOW/TOAD
2021 Willys
Just tried to lock the coach via the keypad, and no go. The bins lock but not the door. I cleaned the two brass contacts and killed the salesman switch for a few seconds which didn't help. Any ideas?
 
Can you hear if the actuator in the door is activating?

You can try rebooting the trimark controller. Remove the top dash panel above your driving gauges. Probably 3 screws like mine. In there is a small white box. Disconnect/reconnect the connectors.
 
Actuator isn't making a sound. I'll try getting to the box tomorrow. Thanks, and I'll post up results.
 
So I decided no time like the present and tracked down the box. Mine is black with a white Trimark sticker. One plug on one side and 4 or 5 on the other side. I unplugged all of them and reinstalled. As it powered up, the doorbell rang. A bloody hand later, no change.
 
Bummer. You may need a new actuator in your door assembly. Takes a T20 I think it is from the inside. @ARD just had this issue. @ARD what was your fix?
 
I'm going to check if it's getting voltage at the door pins when I get a chance. I would assume there should be a 12v spike there when the keypad is actuated.
 
Have you tried using the key fob?
 
Agree on checking for power on the door pins when locking/unlocking. I've seen posts in the past where the wire on the backside of the door jamb pins have come loose. Should be just a couple of screws to pull it out of the jamb connector to check wires. Of course I probably would only do that after checking voltage at pins and verifying that the voltage isn't there.
 
Does the dash lock / unlock button work?
 
Does the dash lock / unlock button work?
No, but i hear the box making a noise when i push the switch. I'm beginning to think it could be the actuator. I'll do more checking tomorrow if I have time. Visiting relatives in the area.
 
I thought I read similar about this long ago...mine did this once or twice (think it took a couple times for me to realize the door wasn't locking)...from what I remember someone said that the pin contacts need to be adjusted out to make a better contact (along with the cleaning)...I tried this but it didn't seem to really "adjust"...but it's worked since I fiddled with it that time 🤷‍♀️
 
Bummer. You may need a new actuator in your door assembly. Takes a T20 I think it is from the inside. @ARD just had this issue. @ARD what was your fix?
Had same issue @lostinfla. Turned out it was not my actuator. One of the wires to actuator broke and the other was bent.
 
Well, today I checked voltage at the pins which was OK. Pulled the lock apart to check the actuator and after putting it back together, now the keypad outside only makes three long beeps while clicking is heard coming from the passengers arm rest where the bin lock switch is. Thankfully that switch still works but nothing else does. Trimark is checking for a replacement key pad as this one is obsolete. Newmar has one for "only" 330.00🤑. I don't want to just throw parts at it, but not sure what route to take at this point.
 
Whenever messing with the entry door lock...unlock or OPEN the driver's side window! Don't ask...
 
Whenever messing with the entry door lock...unlock or OPEN the driver's side window! Don't ask...
and make sure your ladder is not in a locked bay.
 
The brass pins are adjustable and over time they tend to screw 'in'. You just have to screw them 'out' to make sure they make contact. gently press the pin in and then un-screw the pin. more often than not, this is the problem.
 
You can also reset the brains by removing the fuses in the compartment under the driver. I found two that looked relative to door locks...removed them and allowed time to discharge anything that might prevent a successful reboot...reinserted. This did the trick for us. Could be lucky...but I'll take it.
 
Thanks for all the suggestions. I've now had enough of this apart and back together that I'm starting to get a handle on the system parts. I'm calling support again tomorrow after we reach our next destination and I'll report findings if any. I'm thinking it's going to come down to the most expensive part which is the keypad.
 
Have you put a voltmeter on the plunger which should be the same contraption as used on basement doors? My bet is it's the plunger/actuator. You could probably pull one off of a basement door to swap it for testing purposes only.
 

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