How much truck?

[BGMAC]

On the humorous side. Hear is an option.

 

[LSG]

Hells yah you priced a fifth wheel hitch lately you can just steal half a truck plus you got extra storage room in there as well. So does that count as a tandom trailer when you go through the weigh stations;0) If they were still making more episodes of Trailer park boys they could for sure get a lot of action with this set up.

 

[squidvicious]

Nice stuff. So, one final (? probably not) question... We've settled on the 5th wheel RV (hitch @ about 1,200#) and I've narrowed down trucks. So, let me qualify this by saying, I may be over-thinking all of this, but here it is...

Payload vs. tow capacity vs. GCWR

Clearly, I don't want to be over any of those, but gas vehicles will likely come in with lower tow/GCWR and higher payload compared to diesel. is any one of those ratings *more important* than the others? Like, if I'm only at 80% of tow capacity but 95% of GCWR, is that acceptable or no way?

Like, example below, it almost makes no sense to get diesel for 5th wheel since the payload and tow is marginal despite the higher GCWR. In fairness, the straight tow rating of the diesel is significantly higher (almost 19,000#). But, that's not what I have... so, perhaps I've answered my own question

Ram 2500 gas diesel
payload = 3,210 2,400
tow (5th) = 14,060 11,640
GCWR = 21,500 27,000

By the way, I have to give it to Ram for having a VIN lookup which allows specific tow information for the vehicle... wish others had same.

 

[Gizmo]

If you are going to order the truck make use you state that you won't accept it with lower a number. I had a gas 2020 Ram 2500 that the VIN check said 3210 but the yellow tag on the door stated 2644 - big difference. I was pulling an Airstream with the RAM.

 

[TJ&LadyDi]

Nice stuff. So, one final (? probably not) question... We've settled on the 5th wheel RV (hitch @ about 1,200#) and I've narrowed down trucks. So, let me qualify this by saying, I may be over-thinking all of this, but here it is...

Payload vs. tow capacity vs. GCWR

Clearly, I don't want to be over any of those, but gas vehicles will likely come in with lower tow/GCWR and higher payload compared to diesel. is any one of those ratings *more important* than the others? Like, if I'm only at 80% of tow capacity but 95% of GCWR, is that acceptable or no way?

Like, example below, it almost makes no sense to get diesel for 5th wheel since the payload and tow is marginal despite the higher GCWR. In fairness, the straight tow rating of the diesel is significantly higher (almost 19,000#). But, that's not what I have... so, perhaps I've answered my own question

Ram 2500 gas diesel
payload = 3,210 2,400
tow (5th) = 14,060 11,640
GCWR = 21,500 27,000

By the way, I have to give it to Ram for having a VIN lookup which allows specific tow information for the vehicle... wish others had same.

What the truck is rated to pull ("tow capacity") is only part of the story. The rest of the story is what can it safely handle in cornering and stopping. I think all the ratings are inter-related and any time you push the limits on one, you actually push the limits on all of them.

IMHO, most potential RVers go about the selection of truck and trailer backwards. They either have a truck, or have their mind made up about what truck they want, and then go out and buy the trailer they want. This should be a coordinated endeavor. Let me suggest that a better way is to select the trailer you want to buy and then go out and buy the truck that is appropriate to tow it.

TJ

 

[LSG]

theres More than just weight. load characteristics size shape length play as big a factor on each level.

a bulky tall long load will create unfavorable conditions where a much larger weight in a lower center of gravity and smaller wind deflection will perform more stabile so its not just a matter of how close to specs. An example is my 12,000 pound boat and trailer but its 11’8” tall 9’6” wide I pull a 17000 utility trailer every now and then the utility trailer is a piece of cake compared to the boat 4000 to 5000 pounds less trailer and its tongue weight will drop your potential dodge 3/4 ton to the ground. But the load is low wide and wind doesn’t play much of a factor.

its my beliefs with a fifth wheel ( over a bumper pull) you can be closer to both cgvw and each rigs gvw be it truck or trailer or both especially in a heavier 3/4 ton. Things you can do if you find your trailers slightly over your comfort zone is heavier shocks helper springs air bags and better load leveling systems and sway control but be aware the costs of these make stepping into a one ton less money. A Chevy work truck price difference between a 3/4 ton and a 1 ton is about $1200 a good load leveling system $800 plus air bags installed $1200 so my vote is to think about a 1 ton before making the purchase. Fuel mileage is usually pretty close. I know more people that wished they bought more truck given the minimal cost difference new.

so my input if your 3/4 truck is going to be pulling 80% or better of its cgvw or gvw look at a one ton in case the price isn’t much more if it is buy What’s in your budget.

 

[swaggerstick]

Good afternoon! Apologies if there is one or several threads on this already. We're planning for extended trip -- several months. I have the luxury (?) of not having a trailer or tow vehicle yet. In the weeds now, but looking at trucks, it appears there are 1/2 ton set ups that might be fine. But, I've also read that those will strain with heavier trailers no matter what. Example, looking at 27'-30' max trailer, most in the 7,000 to 9,000 lb range (GVWR). Most half-tons on the lot are ill-suited, but it appears that each major make has options that extend tow capacity to 11k or 12k lbs and the GCWR to 17k.

So, is that enough? Or should I simply up to the 2500 group, which would apparently be plenty w/o any "max tow" options, etc.

Not trying to cut it close, but 1500 class has more options, comforts, better efficiency, etc. (I assume?) and probably easier as an everyday vehicle when not towing. Thanks!

I would definitely go with a 2500. Remember you need to stop it as well as tow it. You would not be happy with a 1/2 ton PU. Trust me. I have towing since 1969.

 

[swaggerstick]

What the truck is rated to pull ("tow capacity") is only part of the story. The rest of the story is what can it safely handle in cornering and stopping. I think all the ratings are inter-related and any time you push the limits on one, you actually push the limits on all of them.

IMHO, most potential RVers go about the selection of truck and trailer backwards. They either have a truck, or have their mind made up about what truck they want, and then go out and buy the trailer they want. This should be a coordinated endeavor. Let me suggest that a better way is to select the trailer you want to buy and then go out and buy the truck that is appropriate to tow it.

TJ

Amen !!!

 

[squidvicious]

Thanks again to all for help. A coda to my truck-finding/buying experience...

For anyone who might come across this thread and is looking for a truck in 2020, a few thoughts:

Despite my [over]preparedness, I probably was overthinking this. And, any other time that would've been ok. However, I was not prepared for the current market and, in the end, had a harder time coming to a decision b/c my research, etc. could not overcome the current truck-buying environment. By this I mean, my research prepared me to choose between lots of different trucks currently available on the lot. With plants shut down for a couple/few months, new truck availability is limited. I heard many times that a truck that was "in transit" had already sold before it was even on the lot. I even expanded my range to 500 miles and STILL couldn't find what I wanted -- mind you, for a new truck, I was being a bit particular since spending that kind of $$ I didn't want to "settle". I even had a dealer out of state tell me they wouldn't even sell me the truck they had b/c they wanted to keep for their local buyers -- an understandable position, but not one I necessarily expected since car sellers are usually trying to, you know, sell the car. But in this market, there are plenty of buyers.

I had first wanted to get used, but quickly found that market not entirely ripe with options either. the USED car market is way up. in fact, Edmunds reported that in July, the price of a used large truck in particular was up around $2,500! That was the highest increase of any class. There are many explanations for why this market is the way it is, but I had not anticipated that. So, I started looking at new, but as I said above, it was also not what I expected. Mind you, there are trucks on the lot in many places. And, many of those probably would've been ok. But I just didn't want to drop $60k on a truck that I felt "meh" about. Perhaps that's stupid vanity. Oh, and thought about ordering... a GM truck is 12-16 weeks out, Ram 8-12. That might've been fine but I'm on a timeline and didn't want to risk getting the truck days before we travel -- or worse, not get it at all.

I finally found a 2019 GMC 2500 SLT diesel with just 8,000 miles. I bought it. It too does not have everything I would've wanted in a *new* vehicle, but it should do everything I need it to. So, it was a value... probably, maybe. At this point, I really sort of didn't care.

 

[Kevin D Pem]

Noted. Wondering if folks here have a preference for diesel vs. gas

friend said both will pull (diesel better) but that mileage will be really bad w/ gas vs. diesel under load. Is that a big deal?I

I set my MPG meter on the truck first of season. My gasser (Ram 1500) averages 18mpg. I pull 6800gvw fifth wheel and do the local driving during the season(the season is summer months). The trailer pulling gets between 5mpg and 13mpg with the ocasional downhill that pegs the meter at over 30mpg.

The real take from this is I pull cargo trailer with gvw of 7000lbs and the fifth with 6800gvw with my Ram 1500 with tow capacity of 10500lbs with no problems in the rockies and mostly western states. I have no problem pulling hills at speed limit, and no problem coming down them typically without anything other than engine braking. I don't push the envelope while towing and watch what those antsy drivers behind me act like they will do, and keep what is happening ahead of me in my mind.

I have no problem with using e-flashers,or left turn signal, to keep the person behind in check, should conditions require it, and help them pass when it is safe,slowing with right turn signal. I know that an 8-8.5 rig is hard to see around and helping those behind me be safe, seems to calm them down.