I didn’t expect to find this

[Wemustrv]

@Neemer - you know I love solving problems. This should work!

Amazon product ASIN B005SGM0YK

Hi Neal! have you ever used any of the Flex Seal products? I am looking at this product for a different use and was looking for someone has experience with it.

 

[Neemer]

This would drive me nuts knowing it was like that I would have to repair it. Clean the rail and seal very good and use a good grade of contact cement and get er done!

I have plenty to drive me nuts already.

 

[Neal]

Hi Neal! have you ever used any of the Flex Seal products? I am looking at this product for a different use and was looking for someone has experience with it.

No

 

[DrPhil]

Hi Neal! have you ever used any of the Flex Seal products? I am looking at this product for a different use and was looking for someone has experience with it.

I've actually used tape, caulk, and spray to seal a wheel well leak. I need to post, but was waiting for a real, successful test. Haven't had much rain to drive in lately.

 

[DennisT]

Hi Neal! have you ever used any of the Flex Seal products? I am looking at this product for a different use and was looking for someone has experience with it.

Have tried some of their stuff - never worked well for me.

I’d use the Gorilla brand before the flex seal personally.

 

[Just George]

@Neemer I have a 22 DS. Disconnecting the slide topper is fairly easy if you have a hankering to. Here is how I managed to disconnect & reconnect the FW slide topper.
- With slide fully extended I connected channel locks to the roller mechanisim and topper material at the end of the topper. The objective is to prevent the topper from rolling up during the next step. I have a pair of channel locks with large circular jaws that will clamp around the topper roller. On the other end I used a pair of channel locks that have about a 5" duck bill jaw and clamped them onto the topper material. In the case of the duck bill chnnel locks I split a piece of hose and put it over the duck bill jaws to prevent damage to the topper material.
- Retract the slide say 6" or so to take the tension of the topper material.
- On the outside edge of the topper, attached to the slide wall is the "linked hinge" (my term). There are screws in the end of the hinge links at each end of the slide. Remove the screws from the center hinge piece, this will allow you to pull a link out of the hinge. The link is in two pieces (1/2 of the slide length) so repeat the screw and link removal on the other end. Once the link is removed the topper is now loose and you can access the entire top of the slide.
- Reassembly is basically the above steps in the opposite order.
- I did the process myself but it would be helpful to have second person with a ladder to help handle the hinge link removal and reinsertion. The link is half the length of the slide so it's a bit of a challenge to keep is supported and get it realigned to insert during reassembly.