New Rv'er. Lots of questions

[CShallies]

I purchased a 1995 Fleetwood Southwind and, as I expected, there are some definite issues with it. I still probably got the deal of a lifetime on it regardless, but I do have a few things that I need to address, and I have no idea where to begin. For starters, we are full time in the RV, so liveability is a must.
1. The hydraulic leveling panel has been removed, is there a manual way to lower the levelers?
2. When I went to the dump site at my campground, I was surprised to find that I couldn't remove the cap to attach the hose because the tanks are draining directly against it. My assumption is that the blade valves are no longer working, but that leaves me unable to utilize any running water, as the only way to drain the tanks now, is to to of the cap, and fire hydrant anything in a 50' radius with the nasty contents of my tanks. Any suggestions?
3. My water heater seems to be sporadic. When I say sporadic, I mean it worked one time, for 30 seconds, then never again. Oddly, it was about the 50th time I used the hot water when it worked. So it's not like it died after the first try. It just suddenly have me hot water for 30 seconds, then never again. I've done everything I could find on the net to troubleshoot, but unfortunately, every single thing starts with, "there's an on off switch outside in the panel, on the lower left". Simply put, NO THERE Isn't. There is no switch anywhere on or around the water heater or outside panel. The water heater is full, and there are no blockages anywhere. Ideas?
4. The Dometic RM 2807 heats up, instead of cooling down, literally to the point where you can cook a turkey in the freezer and you will burn yourself if you touch the metal shelf inside. The refrigerator section reeks of ammonia when it's turned on, so my assumption is, there's a leak, so the ammoniated system is not pulling heat, but generating it instead. Again, there are no blockages to the vent system, or the drain/vent hose, and the thermistor is in place, so I'm at a loss on this one as well.

Please help before I just drop an M-80 into the fuel tank, and chalk up the loss.

 

[Kevin D Pem]

This could get messy! I will start with the nicer items!!!
Water heaters are a luxury. Sponge bath is a short term answer. Boil water on the stove!!!

The fridge is dead! You can install panels, controller, and batteries, as well as an apartment fridge for the price of a replacement.

With house fridge leveling is for your comfort, choose a level location, or use blocks.

Hummm! If your dump station is at grade and paved, fashion a back-stop with a plastic box and empty the tanks. Black first, then gray. Before you do this job have replacement valves ready to fix it. There is a valve that has bayonets on both sides if you can leave it on the outlet, but it is better to fix the problem. Please clean up after you do your dirty!!!

 

[Pgh_AL]

I purchased a 1995 Fleetwood Southwind and, as I expected, there are some definite issues with it. I still probably got the deal of a lifetime on it regardless, but I do have a few things that I need to address, and I have no idea where to begin. For starters, we are full time in the RV, so liveability is a must.
1. The hydraulic leveling panel has been removed, is there a manual way to lower the levelers?
2. When I went to the dump site at my campground, I was surprised to find that I couldn't remove the cap to attach the hose because the tanks are draining directly against it. My assumption is that the blade valves are no longer working, but that leaves me unable to utilize any running water, as the only way to drain the tanks now, is to to of the cap, and fire hydrant anything in a 50' radius with the nasty contents of my tanks. Any suggestions?
3. My water heater seems to be sporadic. When I say sporadic, I mean it worked one time, for 30 seconds, then never again. Oddly, it was about the 50th time I used the hot water when it worked. So it's not like it died after the first try. It just suddenly have me hot water for 30 seconds, then never again. I've done everything I could find on the net to troubleshoot, but unfortunately, every single thing starts with, "there's an on off switch outside in the panel, on the lower left". Simply put, NO THERE Isn't. There is no switch anywhere on or around the water heater or outside panel. The water heater is full, and there are no blockages anywhere. Ideas?
4. The Dometic RM 2807 heats up, instead of cooling down, literally to the point where you can cook a turkey in the freezer and you will burn yourself if you touch the metal shelf inside. The refrigerator section reeks of ammonia when it's turned on, so my assumption is, there's a leak, so the ammoniated system is not pulling heat, but generating it instead. Again, there are no blockages to the vent system, or the drain/vent hose, and the thermistor is in place, so I'm at a loss on this one as well.

Please help before I just drop an M-80 into the fuel tank, and chalk up the loss.

I think you have a diamond in the ruff . I think it all depends on if you can work on it yourself or have to have a repair shop involved . The refrigerator is a wrap it definitely needs replaced . I acquired a 91 Fleetwood Pace Arrow . I've done a lot of work to it . But it was a low mileage and gently used . I don't think the hot water tank will be that much of an issue .Yours seem like mine a lot of minor things but nothing major . Id stick with it . Have you priced new ones lately ?

 

[CShallies]

I think you have a diamond in the ruff . I think it all depends on if you can work on it yourself or have to have a repair shop involved . The refrigerator is a wrap it definitely needs replaced . I acquired a 91 Fleetwood Pace Arrow . I've done a lot of work to it . But it was a low mileage and gently used . I don't think the hot water tank will be that much of an issue .Yours seem like mine a lot of minor things but nothing major . Id stick with it . Have you priced new ones lately ?

Yeah, the new Southwind runs around $260k. I paid $2000 for this one, with 50k miles, an overhaul on the engine trans and generator last year, and both rooftop AC units work. I'm wondering if I can rip the whole fridge unit out, and replace it with a traditional fridge from home Depot or something. I do t know why they use these ammonia based "heat removers" instead of a typical freon based fridge. Is it a weight issue? Replacing it with the same fridge is def a no from me dawg. I proceed the new Dometic, and it's $1000 more than I paid for the whole rig. Lol

 

[Kevin D Pem]

Yeah, the new Southwind runs around $260k. I paid $2000 for this one, with 50k miles, an overhaul on the engine trans and generator last year, and both rooftop AC units work. I'm wondering if I can rip the whole fridge unit out, and replace it with a traditional fridge from home Depot or something. I do t know why they use these ammonia based "heat removers" instead of a typical freon based fridge. Is it a weight issue? Replacing it with the same fridge is def a no from me dawg. I proceed the new Dometic, and it's $1000 more than I paid for the whole rig. Lol

I don't know, what do you think?

For the record, it is not because of weight! When your rig was new inverters were expensive and used a bunch of power just to run.

This is my freezer/fridge from home depot, right now used as freezer while I use up some stock.

 

[CShallies]

How dangerous is it removing the older unit?

 

[Pgh_AL]

Yeah, the new Southwind runs around $260k. I paid $2000 for this one, with 50k miles, an overhaul on the engine trans and generator last year, and both rooftop AC units work. I'm wondering if I can rip the whole fridge unit out, and replace it with a traditional fridge from home Depot or something. I do t know why they use these ammonia based "heat removers" instead of a typical freon based fridge. Is it a weight issue? Replacing it with the same fridge is def a no from me dawg. I proceed the new Dometic, and it's $1000 more than I paid for the whole rig. Lol

But if you only paid 2K you got a HELL of a steal . If it has all the work you say it has I think its worth the price of a Dometic . I wish I was on your shoes . I wouldn't have any problems buying a new fridge .

Mine had a regular fridge ( small apartment size ) when i got my rig . I had to be on shore power or have the generator running . Well that didn't work for me . I like to boondock off the grid for days and sometimes weeks . I purchased a full sized Dometic gas and electric .

And it works good for me uses very little propane . I run my generator about half hour a day for the control panel . And it is a weight issue as well . But you do what's best for you .

 

[CShallies]

But if you only paid 2K you got a HELL of a steal . If it has all the work you say it has I think its worth the price of a Dometic . I wish I was on your shoes . I wouldn't have any problems buying a new fridge .

Mine had a regular fridge ( small apartment size ) when i got my rig . I had to be on shore power or have the generator running . Well that didn't work for me . I like to boondock off the grid for days and sometimes weeks . I purchased a full sized Dometic gas and electric .

And it works good for me uses very little propane . I run my generator about half hour a day for the control panel . And it is a weight issue as well . But you do what's best for you .

I wouldn't have a problem buying the new one, if it weren't a monetary issue. Sole panels are pretty inexpensive nowadays, and that couples with an inverter should solve the shore power/generator issue for me. And you're right, it was a steal! She runs smooth and fairly quiet. Other than a few small leaks I've found, mechanically speaking, she's sound. I saw this exact model for sale in another state for $16k. I'm currently remodeling the interior, and making some customizations and modernizations. If anyone is interested in what I've done just this first week owning her, I'm more than happy to post a few pics.

 

[Pgh_AL]

I wouldn't have a problem buying the new one, if it weren't a monetary issue. Sole panels are pretty inexpensive nowadays, and that couples with an inverter should solve the shore power/generator issue for me. And you're right, it was a steal! She runs smooth and fairly quiet. Other than a few small leaks I've found, mechanically speaking, she's sound. I saw this exact model for sale in another state for $16k. I'm currently remodeling the interior, and making some customizations and modernizations. If anyone is interested in what I've done just this first week owning her, I'm more than happy to post a few pics.

When you say leaks what's leaking ? And I for one would love to see your progress on your up grades . Might give me some ideas on mine

 

[CShallies]

Small oil leak, and there's an ATF leak in the secondary gear box for reverse. When she goes dry, I get no reverse, but half a bottle of ATF, and I'm good for a while. I know I need to get a grease gun for the fittings, etc. Here's a few pics. The last owners had already started to demo the floors, and had to pull the wallpaper in the back bedroom for a leak, but all the leaks have been sealed up on the body. So far I've repaired the rear rooftop AC unit, laid some new flooring, sanded and stained some trim. There was a hole where the old microwave used to be, I cut it larger and custom fit a new microwave with a built in pizza oven, and added a tile backsplash in the kitchen.

 

[Pgh_AL]

Small oil leak, and there's an ATF leak in the secondary gear box for reverse. When she goes dry, I get no reverse, but half a bottle of ATF, and I'm good for a while. I know I need to get a grease gun for the fittings, etc. Here's a few pics. The last owners had already started to demo the floors, and had to pull the wallpaper in the back bedroom for a leak, but all the leaks have been sealed up on the body. So far I've repaired the rear rooftop AC unit, laid some new flooring, sanded and stained some trim. There was a hole where the old microwave used to be, I cut it larger and custom fit a new microwave with a built in pizza oven, and added a tile backsplash in the kitchen. View attachment 18404View attachment 18405View attachment 18404View attachment 18405View attachment 18406View attachment 18407View attachment 18408View attachment 18409View attachment 18410View attachment 18411View attachment 18412View attachment 18413

WOW all looking good gives me some ideas . I have a perfect drive train with no problems what so ever . No leaks nowhere . Im concentrating on the accessories that needs attention . It needs a new hot water tank and exterior lights . I have all the parts just have to take time to do the work . I like working on my own stuff .

I like your idea of the floor staining and tile . I think I may go that route . Although I like carpet the carpet is old stained and faded and dirty . That will be the FIRST thing ill tackle . Might need professional help with with that though . But I'll rip out the old myself . Thanks for the pics and the ideas . Glad to see you have the Chevrolet drive train . Me being a Ford guy I have to admit Chevrolet chassis is more fitting for this . I like the 454 it might just be in my head but I trust it more than my beloved 460

 

[Kevin D Pem]

How dangerous is it removing the older unit?

The hardest part of the job was removing the door frame, so I could get it in, and the old one out.

There is an outlet in the back of fridge compartment already. Cap off the gas.
You may need to remove the vent on roof to remove a strap. Remove the facia, and look for
Screws holding it to the floor.

I suppose depending how clumsy you are, you could hurt yourself while moving it around.

You choose a unit that fits the hole, rather than modify the hole.
Minimum 1 " both sides, should not be a problem behind the front wood frame.
I insulated the outside access door, and covered the roof with aluminum plate. Left the top over fridge open for current at the top.

Look and compare EPA power information and choose the unit with lowest annual power usage as it will have the best insulation. My amp draw is 1.9amp. Inverter is small but it also had best annual rating and that means the battery bank will last longer.

On average I pay 50.00us for used panels. 100us for controllers, and use pure sine inverters??.??us. 500watts is a good size panel option, when running a fridge. Any deep cycle batteries will get you through reliably. I use Northstar blues for batteries. Inverter should be at least 2000w.

 

[CShallies]

WOW all looking good gives me some ideas . I have a perfect drive train with no problems what so ever . No leaks nowhere . Im concentrating on the accessories that needs attention . It needs a new hot water tank and exterior lights . I have all the parts just have to take time to do the work . I like working on my own stuff .

I like your idea of the floor staining and tile . I think I may go that route . Although I like carpet the carpet is old stained and faded and dirty . That will be the FIRST thing ill tackle . Might need professional help with with that though . But I'll rip out the old myself . Thanks for the pics and the ideas . Glad to see you have the Chevrolet drive train . Me being a Ford guy I have to admit Chevrolet chassis is more fitting for this . I like the 454 it might just be in my head but I trust it more than my beloved 460

Yeah, the 454 drivetrain is a monster. I couldn't believe it when this thing hit 75 miles an hour on the highway. At 33 ft. And 16,000 lb, that just blew my mind. Easy. I did mine and wood laminates, and all it really requires is a small kit you can buy from home Depot that comes with a hammer, a block, and a few other things. Other things. The panels basically clipped together and then you just tap them with the hammer in the block to get them tight. The hardest part is really just doing the angle measurements and cutting properly

 

[Kevin D Pem]

Yeah, the 454 drivetrain is a monster. I couldn't believe it when this thing hit 75 miles an hour on the highway. At 33 ft. And 16,000 lb, that just blew my mind. Easy. I did mine and wood laminates, and all it really requires is a small kit you can buy from home Depot that comes with a hammer, a block, and a few other things. Other things. The panels basically clipped together and then you just tap them with the hammer in the block to get them tight. The hardest part is really just doing the angle measurements and cutting properly

When I used Laminate on the MH some time ago, I found it liked to separate over time. That made me say never again.

So when I needed to put flooring in the trailer, I looked into cork. I had problems with pre glued tile floating as well so that was out.

Cork turned out was very expensive, so changed directions there as well. However my research showed me the installation could serve well with other materials, with same results. The wear on cork is the varnish, so new coats of varnish will restore the life of your flooring.

What I chose was veneered. 187 plywood, purchased from Home Depot. I had it cut to 4'x4' pieces to transport home. Then ripped it in 3" wide stripes to mimic hardwood flooring.
One gallon of tite bond III, a pin nailer, two coats of flooring sealer, and two coats of floor varnish, and after 4 years I will be thinking of sanding it down to recoat with new varnish. All at the current price of 28.00 usd a sheet plywood.

 

[CShallies]

Now that's impressive! I like it. I just used the laminate because the previous owners left it for me. 4 different types, with the install kit, and the ECF underlayment with built in vapor barrier.

 

[Pgh_AL]

The hardest part of the job was removing the door frame, so I could get it in, and the old one out.

There is an outlet in the back of fridge compartment already. Cap off the gas.
You may need to remove the vent on roof to remove a strap. Remove the facia, and look for
Screws holding it to the floor.

I suppose depending how clumsy you are, you could hurt yourself while moving it around.

You choose a unit that fits the hole, rather than modify the hole.
Minimum 1 " both sides, should not be a problem behind the front wood frame.
I insulated the outside access door, and covered the roof with aluminum plate. Left the top over fridge open for current at the top.

Look and compare EPA power information and choose the unit with lowest annual power usage as it will have the best insulation. My amp draw is 1.9amp. Inverter is small but it also had best annual rating and that means the battery bank will last longer.

On average I pay 50.00us for used panels. 100us for controllers, and use pure sine inverters??.??us. 500watts is a good size panel option, when running a fridge. Any deep cycle batteries will get you through reliably. I use Northstar blues for batteries. Inverter should be at least 2000w.

How dangerous is it removing the older unit?

Well when i

Yeah, the 454 drivetrain is a monster. I couldn't believe it when this thing hit 75 miles an hour on the highway. At 33 ft. And 16,000 lb, that just blew my mind. Easy. I did mine and wood laminates, and all it really requires is a small kit you can buy from home Depot that comes with a hammer, a block, and a few other things. Other things. The panels basically clipped together and then you just tap them with the hammer in the block to get them tight. The hardest part is really just doing the angle measurements and cutting properly

Yeah, the 454 drivetrain is a monster. I couldn't believe it when this thing hit 75 miles an hour on the highway. At 33 ft. And 16,000 lb, that just blew my mind. Easy. I did mine and wood laminates, and all it really requires is a small kit you can buy from home Depot that comes with a hammer, a block, and a few other things. Other things. The panels basically clipped together and then you just tap them with the hammer in the block to get them tight. The hardest part is really just doing the angle measurements and cutting properly

Well as soon as I get all the necessities working such as the hot water and the LPG detector working and a couple others . I'll start on cosmetics the floor will be first . But for now I'm just going to clean at it .

Waiting for oldman winter to take a break. Waiting for some decent warm weather

 

[Kevin D Pem]

Well when i
Well as soon as I get all the necessities working such as the hot water and the LPG detector working and a couple others . I'll start on cosmetics the floor will be first . But for now I'm just going to clean at it .

Waiting for oldman winter to take a break. Waiting for some decent warm weather

Do the fridge before the floor. Getting the old out for the new could damage the floor.

 

[Pgh_AL]

Do the fridge before the floor. Getting the old out for the new could damage the floor.

Good idea if you have help you shouldn't have a problem . I did mine by myself and did very minimal damage to the tile floor . Getting the old out no problem because it was a small dorm size about 3' high regular house type.

The one I put in was a full size unit a Dometic freezer over fridge . I had to cut the opening to make it fit . It went fairly well and works flawlessly . Works just like a house unit once it gets going . ☝