New Rv'er. Lots of questions

[Pgh_AL]

Small oil leak, and there's an ATF leak in the secondary gear box for reverse. When she goes dry, I get no reverse, but half a bottle of ATF, and I'm good for a while. I know I need to get a grease gun for the fittings, etc. Here's a few pics. The last owners had already started to demo the floors, and had to pull the wallpaper in the back bedroom for a leak, but all the leaks have been sealed up on the body. So far I've repaired the rear rooftop AC unit, laid some new flooring, sanded and stained some trim. There was a hole where the old microwave used to be, I cut it larger and custom fit a new microwave with a built in pizza oven, and added a tile backsplash in the kitchen. View attachment 18404View attachment 18405View attachment 18404View attachment 18405View attachment 18406View attachment 18407View attachment 18408View attachment 18409View attachment 18410View attachment 18411View attachment 18412View attachment 18413

WOW all looking good gives me some ideas . I have a perfect drive train with no problems what so ever . No leaks nowhere . Im concentrating on the accessories that needs attention . It needs a new hot water tank and exterior lights . I have all the parts just have to take time to do the work . I like working on my own stuff .

I like your idea of the floor staining and tile . I think I may go that route . Although I like carpet the carpet is old stained and faded and dirty . That will be the FIRST thing ill tackle . Might need professional help with with that though . But I'll rip out the old myself . Thanks for the pics and the ideas . Glad to see you have the Chevrolet drive train . Me being a Ford guy I have to admit Chevrolet chassis is more fitting for this . I like the 454 it might just be in my head but I trust it more than my beloved 460

 

[Kevin D Pem]

How dangerous is it removing the older unit?

The hardest part of the job was removing the door frame, so I could get it in, and the old one out.

There is an outlet in the back of fridge compartment already. Cap off the gas.
You may need to remove the vent on roof to remove a strap. Remove the facia, and look for
Screws holding it to the floor.

I suppose depending how clumsy you are, you could hurt yourself while moving it around.

You choose a unit that fits the hole, rather than modify the hole.
Minimum 1 " both sides, should not be a problem behind the front wood frame.
I insulated the outside access door, and covered the roof with aluminum plate. Left the top over fridge open for current at the top.

Look and compare EPA power information and choose the unit with lowest annual power usage as it will have the best insulation. My amp draw is 1.9amp. Inverter is small but it also had best annual rating and that means the battery bank will last longer.

On average I pay 50.00us for used panels. 100us for controllers, and use pure sine inverters??.??us. 500watts is a good size panel option, when running a fridge. Any deep cycle batteries will get you through reliably. I use Northstar blues for batteries. Inverter should be at least 2000w.

 

[CShallies]

WOW all looking good gives me some ideas . I have a perfect drive train with no problems what so ever . No leaks nowhere . Im concentrating on the accessories that needs attention . It needs a new hot water tank and exterior lights . I have all the parts just have to take time to do the work . I like working on my own stuff .

I like your idea of the floor staining and tile . I think I may go that route . Although I like carpet the carpet is old stained and faded and dirty . That will be the FIRST thing ill tackle . Might need professional help with with that though . But I'll rip out the old myself . Thanks for the pics and the ideas . Glad to see you have the Chevrolet drive train . Me being a Ford guy I have to admit Chevrolet chassis is more fitting for this . I like the 454 it might just be in my head but I trust it more than my beloved 460

Yeah, the 454 drivetrain is a monster. I couldn't believe it when this thing hit 75 miles an hour on the highway. At 33 ft. And 16,000 lb, that just blew my mind. Easy. I did mine and wood laminates, and all it really requires is a small kit you can buy from home Depot that comes with a hammer, a block, and a few other things. Other things. The panels basically clipped together and then you just tap them with the hammer in the block to get them tight. The hardest part is really just doing the angle measurements and cutting properly

 

[Kevin D Pem]

Yeah, the 454 drivetrain is a monster. I couldn't believe it when this thing hit 75 miles an hour on the highway. At 33 ft. And 16,000 lb, that just blew my mind. Easy. I did mine and wood laminates, and all it really requires is a small kit you can buy from home Depot that comes with a hammer, a block, and a few other things. Other things. The panels basically clipped together and then you just tap them with the hammer in the block to get them tight. The hardest part is really just doing the angle measurements and cutting properly

When I used Laminate on the MH some time ago, I found it liked to separate over time. That made me say never again.

So when I needed to put flooring in the trailer, I looked into cork. I had problems with pre glued tile floating as well so that was out.

Cork turned out was very expensive, so changed directions there as well. However my research showed me the installation could serve well with other materials, with same results. The wear on cork is the varnish, so new coats of varnish will restore the life of your flooring.

What I chose was veneered. 187 plywood, purchased from Home Depot. I had it cut to 4'x4' pieces to transport home. Then ripped it in 3" wide stripes to mimic hardwood flooring.
One gallon of tite bond III, a pin nailer, two coats of flooring sealer, and two coats of floor varnish, and after 4 years I will be thinking of sanding it down to recoat with new varnish. All at the current price of 28.00 usd a sheet plywood.

 

[CShallies]

Now that's impressive! I like it. I just used the laminate because the previous owners left it for me. 4 different types, with the install kit, and the ECF underlayment with built in vapor barrier.

 

[Pgh_AL]

The hardest part of the job was removing the door frame, so I could get it in, and the old one out.

There is an outlet in the back of fridge compartment already. Cap off the gas.
You may need to remove the vent on roof to remove a strap. Remove the facia, and look for
Screws holding it to the floor.

I suppose depending how clumsy you are, you could hurt yourself while moving it around.

You choose a unit that fits the hole, rather than modify the hole.
Minimum 1 " both sides, should not be a problem behind the front wood frame.
I insulated the outside access door, and covered the roof with aluminum plate. Left the top over fridge open for current at the top.

Look and compare EPA power information and choose the unit with lowest annual power usage as it will have the best insulation. My amp draw is 1.9amp. Inverter is small but it also had best annual rating and that means the battery bank will last longer.

On average I pay 50.00us for used panels. 100us for controllers, and use pure sine inverters??.??us. 500watts is a good size panel option, when running a fridge. Any deep cycle batteries will get you through reliably. I use Northstar blues for batteries. Inverter should be at least 2000w.

How dangerous is it removing the older unit?

Well when i

Yeah, the 454 drivetrain is a monster. I couldn't believe it when this thing hit 75 miles an hour on the highway. At 33 ft. And 16,000 lb, that just blew my mind. Easy. I did mine and wood laminates, and all it really requires is a small kit you can buy from home Depot that comes with a hammer, a block, and a few other things. Other things. The panels basically clipped together and then you just tap them with the hammer in the block to get them tight. The hardest part is really just doing the angle measurements and cutting properly

Yeah, the 454 drivetrain is a monster. I couldn't believe it when this thing hit 75 miles an hour on the highway. At 33 ft. And 16,000 lb, that just blew my mind. Easy. I did mine and wood laminates, and all it really requires is a small kit you can buy from home Depot that comes with a hammer, a block, and a few other things. Other things. The panels basically clipped together and then you just tap them with the hammer in the block to get them tight. The hardest part is really just doing the angle measurements and cutting properly

Well as soon as I get all the necessities working such as the hot water and the LPG detector working and a couple others . I'll start on cosmetics the floor will be first . But for now I'm just going to clean at it .

Waiting for oldman winter to take a break. Waiting for some decent warm weather

 

[Kevin D Pem]

Well when i
Well as soon as I get all the necessities working such as the hot water and the LPG detector working and a couple others . I'll start on cosmetics the floor will be first . But for now I'm just going to clean at it .

Waiting for oldman winter to take a break. Waiting for some decent warm weather

Do the fridge before the floor. Getting the old out for the new could damage the floor.

 

[Pgh_AL]

Do the fridge before the floor. Getting the old out for the new could damage the floor.

Good idea if you have help you shouldn't have a problem . I did mine by myself and did very minimal damage to the tile floor . Getting the old out no problem because it was a small dorm size about 3' high regular house type.

The one I put in was a full size unit a Dometic freezer over fridge . I had to cut the opening to make it fit . It went fairly well and works flawlessly . Works just like a house unit once it gets going . ☝