New to Towing a Vehicle

[Texas Clodhopper]

Regarding Supplemental brakes--I can tell you from personal experience that you want them. I had a breakaway this summer where my front bumper separated from the towbar on one side. This was a very scary moment. I was able to get the vehicle stopped using the one remaining connection, but this was a struggle to do while going down hill on a 2 lane highway. The jeep was in the oncoming lane, and required me to move over to shoulder a lot more than I wanted to. Had it broke away at that point, it would have killed someone in oncoming traffic.

I don't care about the laws, rules, or any other reasoning--Supplemental brakes are just common sense and will save a life.

If my vehicle killed someone because I was too cheap to do it right, I don't think I could live with myself.

What he said!!!!
In the OP's case, he is trying to tow a Jeep with a gas motorhome, he will need all the auxiliary braking he can get in a panic stop.

 

[osuallen]

This is not necessarily true.
A 3/4 ton gasoline CC pickup can tow more than my MH is rated to tow. The F53 has a beefier chassis and brakes with a similar engine/tranny combo.
My hitch is limited to 5k.
Is my RV? I need to find out...

Please let us know which chassis you have. The Ford F53 is available in 22k, 24k, and 26k versions. I could not find that information on the Georgetown website for your year model. There should be a nameplate with both the GVWR and GCWR. A lot of times it is near the drivers seat.

 

[Dan_Frisbie]

Please let us know which chassis you have. The Ford F53 is available in 22k, 24k, and 26k versions. I could not find that information on the Georgetown website for your year model. There should be a nameplate with both the GVWR and GCWR. A lot of times it is near the drivers seat.

If you had scrolled down to the next post, you would have seen the chassis info. The plate does not list GCWR.

 

[Dan_Frisbie]

So I'm ready for the flack on this!

5000 is based on hitch weight. The hitch can handle 500. An equalizer hitch can change that 5000 number!

What concerns me is the warning about the vehicle capacity!!! Most front engine MHs have extended frames, and the joint has been known to fail. This applies to toweds as well as pull trailers.

In short, a class 3 receiver should be capable enough with an equalizer hitch, to pull the trailer loaded with your Jeep!!!! Just remember my warning about that compromised frame!!!

If the hitch itself is capable of towing 5000 lbs, how is an equalizer hitch going to up that? It may reduce tongue weight, but not overall towing weight.
The extended frame/joint failure is interesting. I'm going to look when it quits raining.

 

[Kevin D Pem]

If the hitch itself is capable of towing 5000 lbs, how is an equalizer hitch going to up that? It may reduce tongue weight, but not overall towing weight.
The extended frame/joint failure is interesting. I'm going to look when it quits raining.

Basically, I read manufacturers data. Of course I read what applies to my personal needs.

For instance, my class 4 hitch has a tow capacity of 10000 and a tongue of 1000.

However that capacity is increased to 14000 and 1400 respectively when a equalizer hitch is used. Oh! The greatest issue would be twist on the welds that would not be the same therefore the capacity difference!

Typically a class 3 is capable of 8000 and 800. The frame is a big factor that can change ratings drastically! No matter what hitch, the weak link establishes the final number. What the RV number is, is the final and only number you really need to avoid exceeding.

Check with Curt after you know what the RV manufacter has to say.

Personally, I would rather trailer, but I am the oddball! Reason is I value being able to back up, when I make a mistake on my route. Some here know the hassle flat towing can be when that happens! Furthermore what you would pay for an upgraded hitch does not compare to the price to enter the flat tow arena!!!

 

[Dan_Frisbie]

Kevin, I would rather trailer as well for the same reasons. I’m going to look into the frame issue and go from there.
Flat tow seems expensive. If I have to buy a car-hauler, I can use it for more than just towing the Jeep…

 

[redbaron]

Your not going to like this, but your RV cannot tow that Jeep Wrangler on a trailer. The Jeep is probably already exceeding the total capacity, or very close. You will need to get it weighed to know for sure. The websites list these are 3900-4500 lbs, but actual weights are closer to 4400-5100lbs.

The trailer required to carry this jeep safely will be a dual axle trailer, 20Ft long. Unless you spend a lot of money on the trailer, it is going to weigh empty about 2000-3000lbs. This means you will need a trailer rated to 9k, since the jeep weighs approx 4.5k.

Once you add the trailer, you are grossly overweight.

Even the lightest trailer, a 7k aluminum with a selling price of $5k weighs 1500lbs. Add the jeep to it at 4500lbs, and you are already overweight.

The only way that jeep will ever safely tow behind the RV is 4 wheels down. And it will be a lot cheaper than buying a trailer, and properly securing it, etc.

The cheapest way to setup your jeep is to add these parts:

* Blue ox base plate
* Brake buddy for braking
* NSA Towbar ( you could even go with integrated braking on the towbar, but the installation is very hard for DIY)
* Supplemental wiring for towing

DIY, all of this will be less than $3k

 

[Texas Clodhopper]

Your not going to like this, but your RV cannot tow that Jeep Wrangler on a trailer. The Jeep is probably already exceeding the total capacity, or very close. You will need to get it weighed to know for sure. The websites list these are 3900-4500 lbs, but actual weights are closer to 4400-5100lbs.

The trailer required to carry this jeep safely will be a dual axle trailer, 20Ft long. Unless you spend a lot of money on the trailer, it is going to weigh empty about 2000-3000lbs. This means you will need a trailer rated to 9k, since the jeep weighs approx 4.5k.

Once you add the trailer, you are grossly overweight.

Even the lightest trailer, a 7k aluminum with a selling price of $5k weighs 1500lbs. Add the jeep to it at 4500lbs, and you are already overweight.

The only way that jeep will ever safely tow behind the RV is 4 wheels down. And it will be a lot cheaper than buying a trailer, and properly securing it, etc.

The cheapest way to setup your jeep is to add these parts:

* Blue ox base plate
* Brake buddy for braking
* NSA Towbar ( you could even go with integrated braking on the towbar, but the installation is very hard for DIY)
* Supplemental wiring for towing

DIY, all of this will be less than $3k. Everything is speculation until he knows his GCWR and weighs his coach and trailer.

Everything is speculation until he knows what his GCWR is and he weighs his coach and toad.

 

[Kevin D Pem]

If nothing else, this discussion serves what is needed!

Everything in life is a compromise! When Saundra started telling me she wanted to take something on our travels that exceeded capacity I started talking about taking two vehicles, and she wanted to travel with me!

That's how we settled on compromise, maybe that is what you might consider!

The compromise not on the table was slipping into the seats that we didn't have the funds for!!!

 

[redbaron]

Everything is speculation until he knows what his GCWR is and he weighs his coach and toad.

Gcwr is 26k on that model and 20.5k for vehicle, leaving 5500lbs max tow. No need to speculate that a trailer just won’t work.

I have yet to see a gasser that has a tow rating over 7500lbs, which is what is required to trailer tow a jeep wrangler safely.

 

[MemoriesByTheMile]

Like @redbaron said, trailering is not cheap and it requires more planning. I say this from the perspective of someone who likes and uses a trailer so that we are not restricted to a small set of vehicles capable of flat tow.
It requires more from the towing vehicle, it requires more expense up front, more storage area while at home, more planning for space at campgrounds - but we chose to use a trailer and most of the time have no regrets.
When we bought our coach we knew we wanted to trailer so we shopped for a coach that could handle the weight. Our coach has the capacity to tow 30,000 pounds and our hitch can handle 5,000 pounds of tongue weight.
If we already had a coach and were looking to optimize costs, we would seriously consider flat towing as it ends up being cheaper than trailering.

 

[Dan_Frisbie]

We decided to skip the Jeep towing.
We tow the box trailer and bikes for nearly all outings and will just continue to do that.
Car hauler is too heavy for the rig and flat towing is not cost effective for the Jeep (which will likely be traded in a year or so).

 

[Dan_Frisbie]

I’m going to revive this and thank you all for your advice and patience.

What about a tow dolly? Not much more weight, fairly easy to handle, and easily adaptable to multiple vehicles. (My wife usually gets a new car every year or two…)
So, pros and cons of tow dolly towing, please…

 

[redbaron]

Total weight is still an issue, but the option of vehicles is greatly expanded.

Nothing special to be done for the tow vehicle if you use a dedicated turn signal mount that attaches to the back of car with magnet or something similar.

Get a good quality trailer with surge brakes and easy adjust straps.

The straps are the hardest part of the setup. Spend extra to get a nicer setup and it should last you a long time.

 

[Kevin D Pem]

I’m going to revive this and thank you all for your advice and patience.

What about a tow dolly? Not much more weight, fairly easy to handle, and easily adaptable to multiple vehicles. (My wife usually gets a new car every year or two…)
So, pros and cons of tow dolly towing, please…

Many 4x4 vehicles are not tow dolly material.