Please help leaking power steering fluid can figure out from where?

[TXfreeze]

I appreciate that, thanks

return lines have very low pressure. The pressure line has around 1500 -2500 PSI

So if that's the case the leak wouldn't be as fast as it is, I mean it spews out like a high pressure water hose, it's not likely the return line is it?

 

[latech]

without looking I could not say. But I think you are on the right track.
Look at the hose that is leaking. Follow it back to the pump. If it goes into the high pressure fitting on the back then it is the high pressure hose.
If it goes to the tube on the back of the reservoir, then it is the return,or low pressure side

 

[TXfreeze]

Well I now have a mechanic to do the job the reservoir lines coming and going to it are full of rust so I"m going to have the reservoir and lines replaced just to be on the safe side. The reservoir was only $24 at Oreilly's and the lines are pretty inexpensive. On a side but related note The guy who towed me took off my drive shaft off even though it didn't need since he towed in neutral and it was only 3 miles , anyway the clamps that hold the Ujoint in place are rusted as are the bolts so I bought a strap kit but the clamps are a hair too big, I need to figure out the exact size of them so the driveshaft can be installed back. Unfortunately the only Ujoint kit is Dorman Orielly's and Autozone that's all they have, was gonna try Napa and see if they know and have it. Any idea about that partl?

 

[latech]

Not sure about the straps.
I see dorman kit part # 81020. Funny thing is it has 2 different size straps, and 4 bolts 2 of one size, and 2 of another.
You may need 2 kits to get a full set of straps and correct bolts, and have a full set of another completley different size straps and bolts

Probably the best bet is take the old stuff to NAPA and have them match it up

 

["EZ"]

I

Well I now have a mechanic to do the job the reservoir lines coming and going to it are full of rust so I"m going to have the reservoir and lines replaced just to be on the safe side. The reservoir was only $24 at Oreilly's and the lines are pretty inexpensive. On a side but related note The guy who towed me took off my drive shaft off even though it didn't need since he towed in neutral and it was only 3 miles , anyway the clamps that hold the Ujoint in place are rusted as are the bolts so I bought a strap kit but the clamps are a hair too big, I need to figure out the exact size of them so the driveshaft can be installed back. Unfortunately the only Ujoint kit is Dorman Orielly's and Autozone that's all they have, was gonna try Napa and see if they know and have it. Any idea about that partl?

If you are in a city of any size there will be a drive line shop. Most heavy truck dealerships use them a lot when they shorten or lengthen the wheelbase on trucks. (happens all the time) Ask your local Freightliner dealer or International dealer who they use. They can help.

 

[TXfreeze]

I

If you are in a city of any size there will be a drive line shop. Most heavy truck dealerships use them a lot when they shorten or lengthen the wheelbase on trucks. (happens all the time) Ask your local Freightliner dealer or International dealer who they use. They can help.

I will definitely consider that in light of what I’m about to share.
Alot has ensued since my last post Indeed I have had the good fortune to find a mechanic with Army experience, he was able to remove the dust panel and get the hardline out, without jacking it up or turning the wheel, it helps he’s only 5’6”. I had gone to Oreilly’s prior to his doing that, but instead of ordering Hydroboost to gearbox I ordered the wrong hose, I was able to get the correct one same day since they had in the store but unfortunately the fitting diameter is not big enough. So the other mechanic who works with him also military experience in the Navy, he tried using some JB weld muffler for a temporary fix till we could locate the correct hard line, which I was telling them unless we can locate a Chevy OEM part it will most likely need to be made at a hydro shop, I argued it was a high pressure line and it was not likely it would work, it cured for a few hours and than tried with the engine on to bleed the line but it didn’t hold. So the mechanic is on the lookout for a line and I need to start calling hydro shops. I put some regular JB Weld so I’m going to wait for it to cure for 24 hours and try again. Glad to say the drive shaft is back on. I’ll keep you posted on the developments.

 

[TXfreeze]

New development, the good news there is a tiny drop leak now from the hard line the bad news there is a new leak closer to the passenger side leaking profusely power steering fluid, power steering pump? Or is that ATF? Haven’t been able to tell. I took some photos of where it is so should be easily identified, ATF for sure smells same and dipstick is low.

 

[latech]

probably a trans cooler line. That is one rusty rig man.You need to go over the brake lines and cooler lines etc.
It does not look good

 

["EZ"]

I agree with latech. I don't want to discourage you but those lines are your BRAKES. You shouldn't be trying to repair them with JB Weld or some kind of liquid stop leak. You're going to get yourself killed. As rusty as those lines are and as rusty as that hydroboost system and master cylinder is the only thing I can recommend is to replace it all. Every piece of it. Replace all the lines with new one also. If this sounds like something that is too expensive then stop what you're doing and move on to a different project. You can't jerry rig your brakes system together. You just can't.

 

[TXfreeze]

probably a trans cooler line. That is one rusty rig man.You need to go over the brake lines and cooler lines etc.
It does not look good

Yes I believe you are right Just to clarify the JB Weld is a very temporary fix so we can at least get to the dump station that is about 500 1000 feet behind us I’m still trying to source replacement lines and yes

it’s a rust bucket it sat on the Oregon Coast for almost a year before we bought it and before that it was in Montana so it’s seen it’s share of salt. We didn’t have much affordable options available after losing our home. Not much I can do about that, we don’t really move around in it much it’s more. a trailer to us than a RV. Edit I pinpointed it to a line that goes from upper radiator to what I believe in the picture is the transmission oil cooler? The lines are not easily replaced if I can find it. That part of the line is known for rusting a lot. There is a quick fix with hoses and clamps but the line has to severed to do that and so far it’s not a big hole, so since I still have some JB Weld left I decided to see if I can at least plug the leak till I can figure out my next move I’ll give it 24 hours to cure and see if it worked. It’s not as high pressure as the break boost line, so maybe it will hold. Will keep you posted.

 

[latech]

You might get a tubing bender and a flaring tool. Make those lines yourself.
You can buy tubing in a roll, no need to spend $$ on short pieces of tubing pre flared with fitting when you can easily custom make your own.

1/4 in. - 3/8 in. Tubing Bender

Amazing deals on this Tubing Bender at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.

www.harborfreight.com

Double Tube Flaring Tool Kit





I know I know, harbor freight sucks Yada yada yada.
Anyway ,these tools are inexpensive, you can buy pricier stuff if you want. My feeling is these tool I posted will actually do the job very well. I own a LOT of snap on tools so coming from snap on guy that says a lot.

 

[TXfreeze]

You might get a tubing bender and a flaring tool. Make those lines yourself.
You can buy tubing in a roll, no need to spend $$ on short pieces of tubing pre flared with fitting when you can easily custom make your own.

1/4 in. - 3/8 in. Tubing Bender

Amazing deals on this Tubing Bender at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.

www.harborfreight.com

Double Tube Flaring Tool Kit





I know I know, harbor freight sucks Yada yada yada.
Anyway ,these tools are inexpensive, you can buy pricier stuff if you want. My feeling is these tool I posted will actually do the job very well. I own a LOT of snap on tools so coming from snap on guy that says a lot.

I can appreciate that but getting the old line out may be a very hard task, I'm hoping the mechanic I've been working with will be able to do it or at least help me do it.

 

[latech]

I can appreciate that but getting the old line out may be a very hard task, I'm hoping the mechanic I've been working with will be able to do it or at least help me do it.

I understand ...

 

[TXfreeze]

I can appreciate that but getting the old line out may be a very hard task, I'm hoping the mechanic I've been working with will be able to do it or at least help me do it.

I understand ...

Well the Mechanic is turning out to be too busy so looks like I'm on my own for now, I'm going to go buy HF and buy the tool. Where can I get the lines, do you know if they are the screw in type fittings or the clipped on like the newer Chevy fittings?

 

[latech]

Tubing can be bought in bulk lengths. The fittings are standard inverted flare tubing nuts. They are pretty much a standard size.
Pull a line off and take it when you go to get parts so they can match them up