Please help leaking power steering fluid can figure out from where?

[TXheat]

To remove the line,if you can feel the nut but cant see it ,or get a wrench on it, you may need a crowsfoot.
Harbor feight crowfoots arent the greatest, they may work.
These here if you can find them look excellent

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/BK_7740126?cid=paidsearch_shopping_dcoe_google&campaign=GSC-Tools-Equipment&campaign_id=8553470562&adgroup_id=107047174069&adtype=pla&gclid=Cj0KCQjwyYKUBhDJARIsAMj9lkGgPVUWPfQaZ7WRs3GHcgDJKUuPjaxQCiyF2Gd4tM4KpbnQxhlRAxMaAlsoEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds&

You may be able to rent them at advanced auto parts too.

If I Remember Correctly, the nut on that line will be 18 MM , could be 16. Not sure
Might change with manufacturer too.Replacement line may have diiferent size.
Pay very close attention the the O Ring on the new line.Be sure to turn the nut in by hand a few turns first.

So what you are telling me here may be why the RV mechanic I just spoke with said this, the only way to to access the busted line is to remove the front grill, headlight and I think he said radiator I couldn't understand him half the time he sounded like he was underwater.

 

[TXheat]

BTW, the line comes from the steering pump. It will be the pressure hose.
View attachment 12285
Be sure which one you have.

The pump supplys pressure to the hydroboost. Then on to the steering pump. Both the booster and the pump have a low pressure return line so fluid is returned seprately from each as they are used independently

I've already seen this the member on the owners forum shared the same thing.

 

[TXheat]

When I take off a return line they are usually cooked on .Using brute force to remove a baked on hose may result in a broken metal tube on the steering reservoir.
I cut them with a razor blade and peel them gently like and orange to minimize any force the the tube so it doent break loose at the reservoir / cansiter. You will see what I mean.
So track down the EXACT line that is leaking ,and watch for the things I posted.
Remember, I do this crap every day for a living.

I understand that, as I can see the PS reservoir has metal lines that look rusted I was thinking if it breaks I will have to replace the reservoir

 

[TXheat]

Of course if you find it is the return line , that will somewhat easier to repair.
Rubber return Lines will be fastened with merely as hose clamp. Or a crimp style clamp (oetecker style) , or even a constant tension clamp

https://www.grainger.com/product/5E...9dxdIJRDzYv6svIs4lsaAjtpEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

Clamp Full Tab Constant Tension 9mm - 50mm

Bel-Metric sells metric hardware & specialty automotive supplies nationwide. Visit our website to purchase metric fasteners, nuts, bolts, Time-Sert kits & more.

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I've been wondering if it could be a return line do they have the same amount of pressure in the line as the line to the Hydroboost?

 

[latech]

return lines have very low pressure. The pressure line has around 1500 -2500 PSI

 

[TXheat]

I appreciate that, thanks

return lines have very low pressure. The pressure line has around 1500 -2500 PSI

So if that's the case the leak wouldn't be as fast as it is, I mean it spews out like a high pressure water hose, it's not likely the return line is it?

 

[latech]

without looking I could not say. But I think you are on the right track.
Look at the hose that is leaking. Follow it back to the pump. If it goes into the high pressure fitting on the back then it is the high pressure hose.
If it goes to the tube on the back of the reservoir, then it is the return,or low pressure side

 

[TXheat]

Well I now have a mechanic to do the job the reservoir lines coming and going to it are full of rust so I"m going to have the reservoir and lines replaced just to be on the safe side. The reservoir was only $24 at Oreilly's and the lines are pretty inexpensive. On a side but related note The guy who towed me took off my drive shaft off even though it didn't need since he towed in neutral and it was only 3 miles , anyway the clamps that hold the Ujoint in place are rusted as are the bolts so I bought a strap kit but the clamps are a hair too big, I need to figure out the exact size of them so the driveshaft can be installed back. Unfortunately the only Ujoint kit is Dorman Orielly's and Autozone that's all they have, was gonna try Napa and see if they know and have it. Any idea about that partl?

 

[latech]

Not sure about the straps.
I see dorman kit part # 81020. Funny thing is it has 2 different size straps, and 4 bolts 2 of one size, and 2 of another.
You may need 2 kits to get a full set of straps and correct bolts, and have a full set of another completley different size straps and bolts

Probably the best bet is take the old stuff to NAPA and have them match it up

 

["EZ"]

I

Well I now have a mechanic to do the job the reservoir lines coming and going to it are full of rust so I"m going to have the reservoir and lines replaced just to be on the safe side. The reservoir was only $24 at Oreilly's and the lines are pretty inexpensive. On a side but related note The guy who towed me took off my drive shaft off even though it didn't need since he towed in neutral and it was only 3 miles , anyway the clamps that hold the Ujoint in place are rusted as are the bolts so I bought a strap kit but the clamps are a hair too big, I need to figure out the exact size of them so the driveshaft can be installed back. Unfortunately the only Ujoint kit is Dorman Orielly's and Autozone that's all they have, was gonna try Napa and see if they know and have it. Any idea about that partl?

If you are in a city of any size there will be a drive line shop. Most heavy truck dealerships use them a lot when they shorten or lengthen the wheelbase on trucks. (happens all the time) Ask your local Freightliner dealer or International dealer who they use. They can help.