How To Replace A/c power brick with straight through 12v 1 amp connection.

[RollingManCave]

I have a device that uses 12v 1amp power from a small a/c power brick. Is it possible to cut off the power brick and wire it to my 12 volt system?
Thanks for any advice.

 

[Diesel Pusher]

Depends on the output of the source. Most cigarette lighter sockets for example supply 5 mA or about half of what you want. Is the device specifically rated to be used without a step down converter (wall wort)? Use a multi-meter to test your 12v source. Once you find an appropriate source, add a 1 amp in-line fuse for protection.

 

[flyboy013]

Your power brick likely puts out 12VDC while the vehicle voltage will vary from say 11V-14V depending on whether you are pull power from house or chassis and whether charging is taking place. You need to ensure that the device being powered is capable of such a range and if not use a DC-DC voltage regulator to get the desired 12VDC.

 

[B52Bombardier1]

Most of my cigarette lighter female plugs support 12 volts on a 10 amp fuse protected circuit. Your one amp device will typically be no problem. Your slight problem will be trying to determine which wires are positive and negative.

Rick

 

[Kevin D Pem]

What device are you trying to power?

Then I will answer your question.

 

[RollingManCave]

Depends on the output of the source. Most cigarette lighter sockets for example supply 5 mA or about half of what you want. Is the device specifically rated to be used without a step down converter (wall wort)? Use a multi-meter to test your 12v source. Once you find an appropriate source, add a 1 amp in-line fuse for protection

Depends on the output of the source. Most cigarette lighter sockets for example supply 5 mA or about half of what you want. Is the device specifically rated to be used without a step down converter (wall wort)? Use a multi-meter to test your 12v source. Once you find an appropriate source, add a 1 amp in-line fuse for protection.

Yes it uses a A/C adapter plugged into 110. After cutting the wires I should test the wall adapter. My understanding so far is the 12 volts need to stay the same, but the amps need to be 1 amp or higher. You are also saying I should add a 1-amp fuse to the wire. should I place the fuse on the + or - side?

 

[RollingManCave]

Your power brick likely puts out 12VDC while the vehicle voltage will vary from say 11V-14V depending on whether you are pull power from house or chassis and whether charging is taking place. You need to ensure that the device being powered is capable of such a range and if not use a DC-DC voltage regulator to get the desired 12VDC.

I understand to keep the Volts withing the Acceptible range or at the 12 volts. If I need the DC to DC, would this work: Amazon.com
I would just need to figure a way to mount the DC to DC. That should not be a problem.
Thank you!

 

[RollingManCave]

Most of my cigarette lighter female plugs support 12 volts on a 10 amp fuse protected circuit. Your one amp device will typically be no problem. Your slight problem will be trying to determine which wires are positive and negative.

Rick

I purchased a clamp meter with A/C D/C. I think this will allow me to determine that. Thank you!

 

[RollingManCave]

What device are you trying to power?

Then I will answer your question.

Thank you, Kevin, I think I got it handled. The manufacture replied that it is 12volt 1 amp and is now checking on the Voltage range but believe the product was designed for a 12 volt range that would work on an automobile battery setup so I should be ok. I may buy the DC-DC inexpensive converters anyway because they are cool, and I would like to experiment with them on other projects. By the way I used some of your advice on the solar decisions, so thank you for that.

 

[flyboy013]

I understand to keep the Volts withing the Acceptible range or at the 12 volts. If I need the DC to DC, would this work: Amazon.com
I would just need to figure a way to mount the DC to DC. That should not be a problem.
Thank you!

That would work. I've also purchased these and these, but I prefer this one for mounting.

 

[RollingManCave]

Thank you, Kevin, I think I got it handled. The manufacture replied that it is 12volt 1 amp and is now checking on the Voltage range but believe the product was designed for a 12 volt range that would work on an automobile battery setup so I should be ok. I may buy the DC-DC inexpensive converters anyway because they are cool, and I would like to experiment with them on other projects. By the way I used some of your advice on the solar decisions, so thank you for that.

That would work. I've also purchased these and these, but I prefer this one for mounting.

Thanks, I will give them a look!

 

[Kevin D Pem]

Thank you, Kevin, I think I got it handled. The manufacture replied that it is 12volt 1 amp and is now checking on the Voltage range but believe the product was designed for a 12 volt range that would work on an automobile battery setup so I should be ok. I may buy the DC-DC inexpensive converters anyway because they are cool, and I would like to experiment with them on other projects. By the way I used some of your advice on the solar decisions, so thank you for that.

Little story. I just changed my system voltage. I took my Lithium 48 volt battery out of the mix. This required changing the voltage on everything! I am back to a 24 volt system, and am much happier, but, I only have one 12 volt load and forgot to account for it! Short story long, I was having trouble figuring why my water pump became so louder than it was. I have been thinking it was on it's way out, I started checking things out! Come to find out it has been running on 24 volts for about a month.

It is not getting hot when it runs, because it doesn't run long! Matter of fact it measures hardly any temp change at all!

The side effects I have noticed is more noise, and it pumps up the accumulator much faster! Think I will see how long it lasts this winter when I am heating the floor with the house water heater!!!

I also have a 10 awg set of jumper cables I use to jump a dead battery in the truck if I leave something on in the truck. That set of cables gets really hot, but my 24 volt house system doesn't mind!

My point is depending on what you are doing, what you are powering, mecanical devices are seldom hurt by higher voltages if you don't get too stupid about it!!!

 

[RollingManCave]

That makes sense. I also like in floor water heat.

 

[Diesel Pusher]

Yes it uses a A/C adapter plugged into 110. After cutting the wires I should test the wall adapter. My understanding so far is the 12 volts need to stay the same, but the amps need to be 1 amp or higher. You are also saying I should add a 1-amp fuse to the wire. should I place the fuse on the + or - side?

Fuse on the live power side. It might not be needed as many 12v devices have built in over charge protection, just consider it as insurance