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Replacing bed gas strut

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ARD

Moderator
RVF Supporter
Joined
Nov 2, 2019
Messages
1,352
Location
Fulltiming
RV Year
2022
RV Make
Newmar
RV Model
London Aire 4551
RV Length
45
TOW/TOAD
Yukon Denali
Fulltimer
Yes
One of my gas struts came off the ball and when I put it back on the bed could not be lowered, so I assumed it seized and purchased another one. Installed new one and the bed won't come down. Are they meant to be replaced in pairs? Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks.
 
I have a hunch it's not bad. I sometimes lift the bed too hard and pull it out of the wood and on this trip I had one I pulled off the ball. I just put it back on the ball and it works fine. I think if you just verify it's installed correctly and gently push down see what happens. I would think they are very reliable.

Edit: Be careful but you could try pulling one off the ball at a time to see if it's one shock that's bad. Just don't let the bed come down on you unexpectedly.
 
Also make sure there is nothing below the strut as it comes down. It needs to have clearance to collapse down its path. I've had stuff get in the way before and that will stop it.
 
I think if you just verify it's installed correctly and gently push down see what happens. I would think they are very reliable.
I installed correctly and nothing blocking; however, I paid more attention to the side of the strut that came off the ball and I noticed the forward metal plate seems to be curving off of the wood and that ball might be a little crooked. Could that cause it not to lower? I don't suppose bashing it down with my mallet would be a good idea, huh?
 
If you lift the bed too hard/far you will rip the mounts out of the plywood. Yeah, done that, twice I think. You really can't install them wrong. Not sure what's going on with yours.

No mallets!
 
No, bashing with a mallet isn't going to help. Probably the opposite. That seems pretty strange. Usually when these fail, they quit holding their load - not holding additional load. I would triple check that there is not something blocking the bed from lowering, the hinge isn't failing, etc.
 
No, bashing with a mallet isn't going to help. Probably the opposite. That seems pretty strange. Usually when these fail, they quit holding their load - not holding additional load. I would triple check that there is not something blocking the bed from lowering, the hinge isn't failing, etc.
I really want to bash it. So I'm guessing this is the issue and will need to replace plate. Also guessing this is why the top part of strut popped the ball. I wonder what caused it to twist. Photo below:


IMG_3266.jpeg
 
I really want to bash it. So I'm guessing this is the issue and will need to replace plate. Also guessing this is why the top part of strut popped the ball. I wonder what caused it to twist. Photo below:


View attachment 32892
While that is a little mangled and should be replaced, I would be really surprised if it was keeping the bed from going down. I can see it possibly being the reason the socket end pops off. on our bed, once you start pushing down, you have to hold it to keep from really slamming. You haven't put stronger struts than the OEM's have you? Not sure WTH you could have done to accomplish that.
 
While that is a little mangled and should be replaced, I would be really surprised if it was keeping the bed from going down. I can see it possibly being the reason the socket end pops off. on our bed, once you start pushing down, you have to hold it to keep from really slamming. You haven't put stronger struts than the OEM's have you? Not sure WTH you could have done to accomplish that.
Yes, I usually have to hold it as I lower it so it won't slam as well. I verified that the new strut (355 N with about 80 pounds of force) is the same as the old one, but I am beginning to think my old one was fine and it popped the ball because of what's going on with the front. Oh well, I'll be at Newmar in a few weeks so no sense in buying a new plate right now. Thanks @Neal and @osuallen for the help.
 
I replaced mine, and had ordered one too strong, couldn't close it. I then ordered one 1/2 the force and it was perfect.


This is what I ordered and it was perfect. HOlds it up even with the wifes heavy blankets and the upgraded mattress we have. It might still be too heavy if you have the OEM air mattress.
 
My OEM said 80lbs, but the ones I ordered at 80lbs seemed much stronger...Too strong even with my replacement Wilderness RV Mattress.
 
We have a tendency to only look at obvious problems.

Examine everything, you may find something else moved to cause the bed to stay up.
 
Try taking that ball bracket off and straightening it back to flat in a vise. The rod end on spring cylinders use a C-shaped flat band spring clip in a circumferential groove to keep the ball seated in the spherical socket. That bent ball bracket’s misalignment is causing the spring clip to open up due to the misalignment prying the ball out of the socket right through the clip’s ends at the ball shank.

(Most people replacing these gas cylinders will notice the slot available for putting a straight screwdriver in under the spring clip and prying the C-clip enough to get the clip’s end at the ball shank to spread and release the ball. Your bent bracket is making the spring clip spread and let the ball out.)
 

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