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Some thing you know, others you just don’t.

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I need to update this for the silver leaf. Sounds like a fun summer project.
Reading through this right now.

Good stuff sir.

For example I did not know that the alternator would charge all batteries. I also did not know that the engine’s alternator could create enough power that I could use the inverter without the generator running. I’m just getting on the in depth for the Magnum system which is great because it’s the system I have.

Thank you for taking the time to put all this together.
 
Reading through this right now.

Good stuff sir.

For example I did not know that the alternator would charge all batteries. I also did not know that the engine’s alternator could create enough power that I could use the inverter without the generator running. I’m just getting on the in depth for the Magnum system which is great because it’s the system I have.

Thank you for taking the time to put all this together.
This document will also apply to your coach:
 
Hi Marc,

Looks like you got some great data from some of the smartest folks here. I don’t have much to add except that the salesmen switch does not cut EVERYTHING off….there is always more little items pulling a little bit here and there. If you will be storing it without an electric hookup, you can add a cutoff switch in the battery compartment on the 12 v line to really cut it off…

If you get lithium for the house batteries, I did just finish a rebuild of my battery compartment for the new batteries if you have any questions.

Good luck with the new rig!
 
Marc, in case I missed it, make sure that the INVERTER is disabled when not using coach. It (I think this is correct), needs a 3 or 30-amp standby current if enabled, so you don't need it in storage. DISABLE IT. Also make sure the AGS (automatic generator start) program is also off/disabled.
Regardless, the entry steps are powered all the time. The Chassis switch turns off all power to chassis, but steps are still hot, there are most likely other things. In ours, sales switch needed to be on for anything on the dash to work, lights inside, etc., but genset would still start if it was off. My rule of thumb was to go over to ours weekly and run genset for couple hours to keep everything up to snuff.
Other things will need exercise as well. In winter, run the Heat Pumps on AC to keep the reversing valve limbered up, and vice-versa for summer. If propane furnace, run it in summer as well, to keep it working, and dust burned out of the combustion chamber. Unless they have changed rule, suburban did NOT allow those screens to be permanently installed over the intake/exhaust ports for it, so figure out some quick disconnect options. Sanitize the water system at least every 6 months or use the coach at least monthly. Empty black/gray tanks before putting into storage.
I think, based on years of owning property with septic tanks, the macerator system makes it easier on the sewage to be broken down, since aint no big pieces. Many if not all RV parks on their own septic system, so that makes it easier on that. School in disarray on chemical in black tank, I used blue power, never had problem. If oasis system, I personally think it's better than Hydro-hot. Maintenance is easier, I think. However, we limited our diesel burner time (at that time not for cost, as much as in park paying for electricity anyway), so think when we sold it had 20 hours on it.
I change oil in genset annually, with new Oil Filter. Every other year, fuel, air, and oil/filter. Believe the rule is 150 hours, if not living on it every day, that is about a year. Amazon has best prices on the filters, regardless, if, you want freightliner/Cummins to do that service, they will allow you to provide filters saving some money. I only purchased the Onan filters. Same for main engine/oil/fuel/water Seperator unit as well. Cummins may be giving veterans discount; they did last time I was in and had to ask for it.
Like everything in life, good places and bad places to get work done. Cummings in Chattanooga, TN, Coburg, OR, Portland, OR, freightliner in Tollefson, AZ all excellent. Lots more, others can chime in. Obviously, Gaffney, SC is good, Newmar Factory is also excellent, at least I was very happy with their work.
RTFM-are words to live buy, as that is sorta your bible on unit, it has the only suggested/recommended procedures to follow per Newmar's guidance. Don't necessarily not follow suggestions here, just know, changes occur, and the "new stuff" may not be good for your 2015 unit. So, check manual, first. Winterization is not hard, nor complicated, but MANDATORY if any freezing WX and coach is not being used. Download and print out procedures for MH, and also if washer/dryer/ice maker in fridge, follow those instruction to the letter. For my last one, I poured 5 gallons RV antifreeze into Home Depot orange bucket, and then let water pump suck it through system, starting with outside shower first since there. Washer has process, fridge has process, take your time, and everything will be fine, oh, if dual shower heads, make sure you get pink stuff into both of them. DO NOT USE AUTOMOTIVE ANTIFREEZE, it can kill you. Specifically RV ANTIFREEZE ONLY.
Sure I forgot something, good luck, glad ours is gone, do not miss pulling up to fuel fill at truck stop at all. Search for fuel discount program on this forum, name eludes me now.
 

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