Towing a Ford Ranger

[wlm]

We know nothing about motorhomes. We are looking toward retirement and would like to buy a motorhome and tow our Ford Ranger. Will a class c do that or do we need to go to class a? Should we look for a diesel? We are looking at spending around $100000. Any advice you can give us would be greatly appreciated on what would be good to buy and what to look for.

 

[John&Andrea]

Welcome. The E450 on a Class C will tow the ranger as well as a gas Class A. You need to make sure you can flat tow the ranger. Some are flat towable and some are not. Ford is a good choice on a Class C and the only choice on a gas Class A. Diesel is another level you will not need it to tow but will give you more hp and torque. In the mountains that can come in handy. You budget will get you in class A or C, I would recommend looking on line to get an idea of what is out there. RVtrader.com is a good place to start. Some resorts and campgrounds have an age limit on rigs of 10 years old. I sold my 2009 5th wheel in December, I was towing with an 04 F250 and we were still going and were never challenged on the age. Both looked good I’m not sure how much that is really enforced.
Good luck on your search.

 

[Old Bubblehead]

Welcome!
As John has indicated, there are many options out there. Also as he mentions, your truck may be towable 4 down. Your owners manual is the first place to look, it will detail the models of Rangers that can be Recreational Towed or Dinghy Towed. Once you have that info you can understand your options. If your truck is capable of 4 down towing, the next issue is weight. This impacts the RV you select. You will need to find an RV that has the correct hitch rating and weight handling characteristics.

Figure out your truck first, then you know when you go shopping for the RV what your limits are for the rig.

We towed a Chevy Colorado with our first coach (Newmar gas rig), we had also looked at the Rangers and could have towed them.

Best of luck!

 

[MapNerd]

Both a gas class A and Class C should be able to tow a ranger just fine. Just check the hitch rating and make sure it’s rated to tow the weight of the ranger, fully loaded as you would tow it, plus another 10-20% for a safety margin.

To tow a ranger, it needs to be 4x4 with a two-speed transfer case. This is standard equipment on a modern 4x4 Ranger.

I also recommend installing a charge line. Rangers and F150s generally do not need this but the steps to put them in flat -tow mode can be a bit confusing for some and modern Fords have an unfortunate feature wherein if the vehicle’s battery becomes depleted while in flat-tow mode, the vehicle will shift into gear. There have been several reports of that happening to folks while they were towing and the end resolution required a compete transmission swap at a minimum. Ford has not been covering these incidents as warranty claims but calling them operator error.
A charge line should avoid that nightmare by keeping the battery charged while in tow. Ford says you don’t need this but it is literally $6 worth of insurance.

 

[Old Bubblehead]

Both a gas class A and Class C should be able to tow a ranger just fine. Just check the hitch rating and make sure it’s rated to tow the weight of the ranger, fully loaded as you would tow it, plus another 10-20% for a safety margin.

To tow a ranger, it needs to be 4x4 with a two-speed transfer case. This is standard equipment on a modern 4x4 Ranger.

I also recommend installing a charge line. Rangers and F150s generally do not need this but the steps to put them in flat -tow mode can be a bit confusing for some and modern Fords have an unfortunate feature wherein if the vehicle’s battery becomes depleted while in flat-tow mode, the vehicle will shift into gear. There have been several reports of that happening to folks while they were towing and the end resolution required a compete transmission swap at a minimum. Ford has not been covering these incidents as warranty claims but calling them operator error.
A charge line should avoid that nightmare by keeping the battery charged while in tow. Ford says you don’t need this but it is literally $6 worth of insurance.

Just talked me out of a Ford for my next toad.

 

[MapNerd]

Sorry. Wasn’t my intention. It scared me when I first read about it too but knowledge is power my friend. Now you can make an informed choice. I tow an f-150 with no issues or worries because I have a charge line and I know about the issue. Lots of folks do as well.

plenty of other great tow vehicles out there. I think @Neal toes a Colorado but IIIRC, that requires a battery disconnect with is a different kind of pain in the butt.

FWIW, I think Ford met some owners in the middle and gave them steep discounts, but mileage varies depending on conditions. Personally, I just wouldn’t tow any vehicle without a charge line. It doesn’t hurt if it’s not needed but it helps a ton if it turns out that it is needed and is just undocumented.

 

[Old Bubblehead]

Sorry. Wasn’t my intention. It scared me when I first read about it too but knowledge is power my friend. Now you can make an informed choice. I tow an f-150 with no issues or worries because I have a charge line and I know about the issue. Lots of folks do as well.

plenty of other great tow vehicles out there. I think @Neal toes a Colorado but IIIRC, that requires a battery disconnect with is a different kind of pain in the butt.

FWIW, I think Ford met some owners in the middle and gave them steep discounts, but mileage varies depending on conditions. Personally, I just wouldn’t tow any vehicle without a charge line. It doesn’t hurt if it’s not needed but it helps a ton if it turns out that it is needed and is just undocumented.

No worries, we have a Colorado now and dealt with the battery disconnect. Been towing it for two seasons, great toad. We had a gasser when we picked it, so were weight limited. Also did not have air brakes on gasser. New rig has more capability, and a bit bigger/ more comfortable toad wouldn't be a bother. No rush, we will research for a while before changing.

 

[Britman55]

We know nothing about motorhomes. We are looking toward retirement and would like to buy a motorhome and tow our Ford Ranger. Will a class c do that or do we need to go to class a? Should we look for a diesel? We are looking at spending around $100000. Any advice you can give us would be greatly appreciated on what would be good to buy and what to look for.

I tow a 2019 Ranger XLT 4x4 with my gas Class A. Tow bar is the Blue Ox Avail series and the supplemental braking system is the Demco Stay-in-Play Duo. Following the procedures listed in the Ford Ranger owners manual I have found the set up to tow relatively easy. I do not have a charge line installed as I was told I don't need one. So far my set-up has been very reliable.

 

[MapNerd]

No worries, we have a Colorado now and dealt with the battery disconnect. Been towing it for two seasons, great toad. We had a gasser when we picked it, so were weight limited. Also did not have air brakes on gasser. New rig has more capability, and a bit bigger/ more comfortable toad wouldn't be a bother. No rush, we will research for a while before changing.

What’s the reason for needing to disconnect the battery anyway? To prevent charge depletion? If so, you could just get a batteryminder or another charge line, wired directly into your electrical cable from the coach, then there should be no need to disconnect the battery.

The Ranger and Colorado are both very similar trucks, why were you considering switching given that they are pretty much the same size truck with the same capabilities?

 

[MapNerd]

I tow a 2019 Ranger XLT 4x4 with my gas Class A. Tow bar is the Blue Ox Avail series and the supplemental braking system is the Demco Stay-in-Play Duo. Following the procedures listed in the Ford Ranger owners manual I have found the set up to tow relatively easy. I do not have a charge line installed as I was told I don't need one. So far my set-up has been very reliable.

The 2020 and below model years have a very simple process to put the vehicle into flat tow. It is hard to mess up. The 2021 models moved all of that into the dash screen, and you enable it via the in-dash menu using your steering wheel controls. There is a post on here somewhere with a young lady demonstrating it and it’s a pretty convoluted set of like 20 steps. As with anything, I’m sure once you’ve done it a few times it gets easier but man they nested it pretty deep in the settings.

 

[Old Bubblehead]

What’s the reason for needing to disconnect the battery anyway? To prevent charge depletion? If so, you could just get a batteryminder or another charge line, wired directly into your electrical cable from the coach, then there should be no need to disconnect the battery.

The Ranger and Colorado are both very similar trucks, why were you considering switching given that they are pretty much the same size truck with the same capabilities?

The steering is electric and needs to be isolated is what i was told. We are looking at F150 size for next truck.

 

[MapNerd]

An F150 might be a bit heavy for a gasser. I know going from our Jeep Cherokee to our F150, I definitely noticed the F150’s additional heft, particularly when climbing, whereas I’d never noticed the Cherokee.

sometimes I think a Ranger with the Tremor package would have been just as good.

 

[Britman55]

The 2020 and below mode years have a very simple process to put the vehicle into flat tow. It is hard to mess up. The 2021 models moved all of that into the dash screen, and you enable it via the in-dash menu using your steering whee controls. There is a post on here somewhere with a young lady demonstrating it and it’s a pretty convoluted set of like 20 steps. As with anything, I’m sure once you’ve done it a few times it gets easier but man they nested it pretty deep in the settings.

Was not aware of the newer Ranger procedures but now that you mentioned it I guess I should feel lucky that my model year is more simplified . I still have a checklist in the glove compartment anyway and follow it even though I think I have it committed to memory. My DW seems to think it’s a good idea!

 

[Joe Hogan]

Read the User Manual for the 2021 Ford Ranger. Pages 227 -230.

https://www.fordservicecontent.com/Ford_Content/Catalog/owner_information/2021-Ford-Ranger-Owners-Manual-version-1_om_EN-US_10_2020.pdf

 

[MapNerd]

That doesn’t seem too bad!

 

[Old Bubblehead]

An F150 might be a bit heavy for a gasser. I know going from our Jeep Cherokee to our F150, I definitely noticed the F150’s additional heft, particularly when climbing, whereas I’d never noticed the Cherokee.

sometimes I think a Ranger with the Tremor package would have been just as good.

Thanks, we shifted coaches last year. Picked up an Entegra Cornerstone DP. We have plenty of towing capability with the new rig, but are not in a rush.

 

[jsuprock]

We know nothing about motorhomes. We are looking toward retirement and would like to buy a motorhome and tow our Ford Ranger. Will a class c do that or do we need to go to class a? Should we look for a diesel? We are looking at spending around $100000. Any advice you can give us would be greatly appreciated on what would be good to buy and what to look for.

I may be the outlier here but this is what I have found in 20 years of RVing

Gas or Diesel?
Really with any newer Class A or Class C (less than 10 - 15 years old) you can tow the Ranger easily. Many, maybe most people will tell you to get a Diesel. I say no, they cost way more to purchase
They cost way more to maintain (a oil change could cost as much as $500 or more for example) .
They don't get any ( or only marginally better gas mileage).
Diesel fuel generally costs more.
Diesel cost way more to repair if you need repairs, WAY MORE!!!!
Diesel can be hard to find in some areas (especially in Canada *if they ever let tourists back in)

Flat tow, or Trailer tow?
Again, A lot of people will say "what are you crazy"? Having done both, and also having pulled double trailers up to 85 feet in length I say
NO, DO NOT FLAT TOW!!!
WHY???
1. You can not back up Flat towing.

This is always a problem due to​

A wrong turn​

Setting up at the campsite​

Maneuvering at the gas station​

Didn't quite make a tight corner​

Accidently on a dead end road and unable to make a sweeping U turn​

And the list goes on​

2. Fuel mileage is better towing a good trailer ( like maybe over 1 MPG better, and at 5 to 10 MPG * 1 MPG equals 10 % to 20% lower fuel cost)
3. You can carry extra stuff on the trailer

Bikes​

Kayak​

Other toys​

Your mother in law ​

4. To those who say "well yah, but what do you do with the trailer when you get to your destination?"

1 This is rarely an issue, just park it (hooked up or unhooked beside the motorhome) on your camping site​

2 Have to park it somewhere else, Park it there using the motorhome or, that Ranger, you have a hitch on it? use the Ranger to park it away from your campsite. (I have found that during the course of my average 7 month summer trip I might need to do this once or twice)​

​

Class A or Class C?
I would say this about that
1. Are you going to go on trips for a weekend or a week or two? Class A or Class C is fine
2. Are you going to go on trips for Months at a time? Get yourself more room with a Class A (more storage room too)
3. Are you going to live in it for a year or two? get the biggest one that you can afford. Do not worry about the size in regards to driving it. Get the biggest on you can afford * note exceptions below.
4. Exception to rule "Get the biggest one you can afford"

1. If you plan of doing a lot of camping in state parks, national parks, or national forest campgrounds some do have max size restrictions.​

2. Generally the max size restriction is 35 feet (but I have never seen anyone out measuring a motorhome to see if it violates this rule) and I have seen plenty of motorhomes that exceed the size restriction in places where technically they are not allowed. So are you willing to push those rules?​

3. And you may ask, if the site says 70 foot long site, why is there a 35 foot restriction rule? GREAT QUESTION, my guess is politics​

4. For years I traveled in a 35 footer and now I have a 45 footer and I can honestly tell you I have not changed where I am going to camp based on the size restrictions more that a few times.​

​

Finally Warnings about buying a unit
1. Best time to buy was last year, truthfully, Prices are sky high right now do to a lot of reasons
2. Best time of year to buy? Between November 1 and February 1 in any year is when you are going to get the best deal $$$$, most likely best in November and December
3. Buying a gas unit? If you have any mechanical experience (you do your own auto work) then you can probably check the engine, drivetrain, suspension, and brakes yourself.
4. Buying a diesel, If it is more than 5 -7 years old, Have a great diesel shop look it over for you! Why?

1. Air brake systems are completely different from hydraulic brake systems, you need someone who knows what they are looking at​

2. Air suspension systems are also completely different and require maintenance! Also air bag suspension systems are more susceptible to damage and the bags do go bad over time.​

3. diesels need to run, Well gas engines too but diesels are made to run 750,000 to 1,000,000 plus miles, so if you are buying a 5 year old unit with 20,000 miles on it ( it was not run and may have issues due to the lack of use) "MAY"​

5 Any used motorhome,

Check the roof carefully!​

Check all vents, wiring, TV antenna's, etc. for broken or cracked plastic, and bad caulking, sealing around any roof penetration's​

If a rubber roof, make sure it has not become loose in any area, or has a bubble (those are expensive issues to repair)​

Heating, Air-conditioning, Refrigerators are all expensive to repair or replace, turn them on and make sure they work.​

Fill all tanks (water) to full, including Black and Grey water tanks and look for leaks in tank and plumbing​

Hook up to water source and see if there are any plumbing leaks​

If it has a generator , run it for at least an hour with A/C , or other high consumption electrical items turned on​

Of course ask for and review maintenance records​

NOTE: All motorhome dealers have negotiating room on their prices (and they are insanely high right now as previously noted), and also most will fix problems you identify before the purchase as part of the deal, but will charge you up the @@@ to fix it if an issue if found after the purchase.​

​

AS you can see, I could go on for a long time, but with the info above you have the basics.

BTW, join FMCA and attend rallys, seminars to gain more knowledge.

Johnnie

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[jsuprock]

Side note on Trailering you car vs flat towing.

Flat tow set up
Tow bar and tow car parts and pieces $1,000 to $1500
Tow car Brake system $800 to $1800
Installation and electrical set up $$200 to $1,000
Total cost of flat tow system ? $2,000 to $4,300

Cost of flat bed tow trailer? $1,800 to $3,000

So trailer is very cost effective also.

Johnnie