All basement doors locked

[Buly]

This week I took the plunge, and replaced my 7 years old wet Interstate house batteries with Trojan T105 AGM's . It was lots of work and trips to the Ace Hardware for right length metric bolts, and fabricating copper flat bar jumpers.
Anywho, when disconnected the old batteries, I heard the basement doors click, but I thought "no big deal".
Now everything is connected and works, except the basement doors are locked and will not respond to the key pad or the rocker switch. Just called Newmar, but they are gone for the weekend.
Any ideas? Maybe a reset?
Thanks.

 

[Richpatty]

Fuse? And I am assuming you can still open with the key, yes?

 

[Buly]

Fuse? And I am assuming you can still open with the key, yes?

Hi Rich,
Fuse crossed my mind, but the key pad makes some faint beeps when pushing the buttons. Blown fuse would totally disable it.
The key may work, but my concern is the electric locking.

 

[Neal]

I think they are all chained together, maybe just for lighting, not sure. But I think you'd have to check all basement doors to make sure the spade connections are still connected.

 

[Buly]

I opened with the key all the doors , except the one under the driver and the one next to the entrance door.
Turned off and on the starting battery switch. Did not make a difference.
The bad part is that the fuses are behind the door that will not budge using the key.

 

[Buly]

Something came to mind:
Removing the toggle switch and using 12V battery I have, try activate the locks bypassing the fuse?
Will try it tomorrow. Too tired today ?

 

[lostinfla]

Interested to see what you find. I can't understand why disconnecting the house batteries would make the system go into "lockdown". You said you turned off the starting battery switch, did you try the 12v "salesman" switch that controls the coach systems?

 

[Buly]

I’m not even sure which one is the salesman's switch?

 

[lostinfla]

 

[Buly]

Tried it. Did nothing

 

[Buly]

Managed to open the passenger side open. The actuator failed in lock position, and even the key would not move it. Frozen. Looks like the fuse bay door is the same, and blown fuses are there.
taking the hinge off is one solution?

 

[Buly]

Guess what I just found at Walmart for $9.99

 

[Neal]

I got mine off eBay and ordered spares, identical to what was installed. Hard to find.

 

[TJ&LadyDi]

Guess what I just found at Walmart for $9.99View attachment 5870

Why am I never that lucky?

TJ

 

[Buly]

I just ordered pack of 4 for $13.39 incl shipping. Door actuators
Compared measurements and they were identical. I bet Newmar is buying them for less than $2 a piece ?.
Dissected the failed actuator, and inside smelled like burned wiring.
Ordered materials to make release cables for all the basement doors.
Opening the small door under the driver seat will be a a challenge, I'm afraid

 

[TJ&LadyDi]

I know you have tried the battery disconnect/“salesman’s” switch, but how long did you leave it off? I suggest that you try it again, and leave the switch off for a couple of minutes before reactivating. Sometimes, it takes a bit of time to get the system to fully reset.

TJ

 

[Buly]

Hi TJ,
From what I gather, the two actuators seized up and blew the fuse. The one I removed was totally fried and smelled badly. Can't figure it out why?
The worst thing is, that the bay with all the fuses is the one I will have to get into.
But I will go now and turn off the switch again, and leave it for a while. Hope you are right and works?

 

[TJ&LadyDi]

Hi TJ,
From what I gather, the two actuators seized up and blew the fuse. The one I removed was totally fried and smelled badly. Can't figure it out why?
The worst thing is, that the bay with all the fuses is the one I will have to get into.
But I will go now and turn off the switch again, and leave it for a while. Hope you are right and works?

I think even if just one of the actuators “fried,” it is possible for that, alone, to have blown the fuse. The fact that you are unable to unlock the electrical bay manually probably means a similar fate for its actuator. I am having a hard time understanding how two actuators would fail simultaneously, however.

I presume that you have tried squirting some penetrating lock lubricant into the key slot to see if that would allow a manual unlock. If not, that might be worth a try.

Otherwise, when you are able to contact Newmar, they should have an emergency opening procedure. Worst case, I think a locksmith might be able to remove the lock core with a slide hammer. That, of course, would require replacing the lock and the actuator.

One final thought; have you checked the fuse panel inside the coach (ours is in the half bath)? One would think that good engineering practice would be to place the fuse for the electrical compartment door lock somewhere except inside that compartment.

Sorry you are having this problem. Good luck.

TJ

 

[Buly]

I think even if just one of the actuators “fried,” it is possible for that, alone, to have blown the fuse. The fact that you are unable to unlock the electrical bay manually probably means a similar fate for its actuator. I am having a hard time understanding how two actuators would fail simultaneously, however.

I presume that you have tried squirting some penetrating lock lubricant into the key slot to see if that would allow a manual unlock. If not, that might be worth a try.

Otherwise, when you are able to contact Newmar, they should have an emergency opening procedure. Worst case, I think a locksmith might be able to remove the lock core with a slide hammer. That, of course, would require replacing the lock and the actuator.

One final thought; have you checked the fuse panel inside the coach (ours is in the half bath)? One would think that good engineering practice would be to place the fuse for the electrical compartment door lock somewhere except inside that compartment.

Sorry you are having this problem. Good luck.

TJ

I examined the first one, and if it is seized in locked positions, you have to overcome the friction of the seized motor and plunger with the key. Which is impossible. I was barely able to move it while the actuator was in my hands.

punching the lock out, will not help. I opened one and looked at it. If you do it, don’t think you can release the lock thru a 1/2” hole?

I did read last night Newmar’s advise in a case like that:
Destroy the whole lock (crow bar) with minimal damage, or unscrew the hinge very carefully, and try to trigger the lock by hand thru the gap.

The Cargo Locks Fuse F18 and Keyless Entry Fuse F17 are located on the KIB FUSE PANEL.
Which one it is, and where it is? My guess is the one that is locked?

You are right, about the engineering part. Someone didn’t think about the worst scenario, but makes our lives more interesting ?

 

[TJ&LadyDi]

@Buly, don’t know if this is even the same fuse panel as yours, but the fuse numbers match. Here’s a photo of our panel.

Also a photo of the door latch. Not sure if this might help, but thought it was worth a try.

TJ