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All basement doors locked

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I know you have tried the battery disconnect/“salesman’s” switch, but how long did you leave it off? I suggest that you try it again, and leave the switch off for a couple of minutes before reactivating. Sometimes, it takes a bit of time to get the system to fully reset.

TJ
 
Hi TJ,
From what I gather, the two actuators seized up and blew the fuse. The one I removed was totally fried and smelled badly. Can't figure it out why?
The worst thing is, that the bay with all the fuses is the one I will have to get into.
But I will go now and turn off the switch again, and leave it for a while. Hope you are right and works?
 
Hi TJ,
From what I gather, the two actuators seized up and blew the fuse. The one I removed was totally fried and smelled badly. Can't figure it out why?
The worst thing is, that the bay with all the fuses is the one I will have to get into.
But I will go now and turn off the switch again, and leave it for a while. Hope you are right and works?
I think even if just one of the actuators “fried,” it is possible for that, alone, to have blown the fuse. The fact that you are unable to unlock the electrical bay manually probably means a similar fate for its actuator. I am having a hard time understanding how two actuators would fail simultaneously, however.

I presume that you have tried squirting some penetrating lock lubricant into the key slot to see if that would allow a manual unlock. If not, that might be worth a try.

Otherwise, when you are able to contact Newmar, they should have an emergency opening procedure. Worst case, I think a locksmith might be able to remove the lock core with a slide hammer. That, of course, would require replacing the lock and the actuator.

One final thought; have you checked the fuse panel inside the coach (ours is in the half bath)? One would think that good engineering practice would be to place the fuse for the electrical compartment door lock somewhere except inside that compartment.

Sorry you are having this problem. Good luck.

TJ
 
I think even if just one of the actuators “fried,” it is possible for that, alone, to have blown the fuse. The fact that you are unable to unlock the electrical bay manually probably means a similar fate for its actuator. I am having a hard time understanding how two actuators would fail simultaneously, however.

I presume that you have tried squirting some penetrating lock lubricant into the key slot to see if that would allow a manual unlock. If not, that might be worth a try.

Otherwise, when you are able to contact Newmar, they should have an emergency opening procedure. Worst case, I think a locksmith might be able to remove the lock core with a slide hammer. That, of course, would require replacing the lock and the actuator.

One final thought; have you checked the fuse panel inside the coach (ours is in the half bath)? One would think that good engineering practice would be to place the fuse for the electrical compartment door lock somewhere except inside that compartment.

Sorry you are having this problem. Good luck.

TJ
I examined the first one, and if it is seized in locked positions, you have to overcome the friction of the seized motor and plunger with the key. Which is impossible. I was barely able to move it while the actuator was in my hands.

punching the lock out, will not help. I opened one and looked at it. If you do it, don’t think you can release the lock thru a 1/2” hole?

I did read last night Newmar’s advise in a case like that:
Destroy the whole lock (crow bar) with minimal damage, or unscrew the hinge very carefully, and try to trigger the lock by hand thru the gap.

The Cargo Locks Fuse F18 and Keyless Entry Fuse F17 are located on the KIB FUSE PANEL.
Which one it is, and where it is? My guess is the one that is locked?

You are right, about the engineering part. Someone didn’t think about the worst scenario, but makes our lives more interesting ?
 
@Buly, don’t know if this is even the same fuse panel as yours, but the fuse numbers match. Here’s a photo of our panel.

08550FEF-AF23-4756-9661-C44D78EB5441.jpeg


2E10F4EE-74CC-417B-9998-84A8F57EC06A.jpeg

Also a photo of the door latch. Not sure if this might help, but thought it was worth a try.

TJ
 
Thank TJ,
I don’t have much hope opening that door undamaged. Will try tomorrow.
 
Yesterday morning I got everything ready to remove the electrics bay door one way or another. Double taped the edges to protect the paint etc.
Than decided to try the key again. Thinking if it breaks, the door latch is toast can be fixed later. After playing with it for couple minutes, I managed to overpower the actuator and it opened (y)(y). Replaced the 20A burned fuse and the latches work
Now waiting for the new actuators and SS nylon coated fishing line and crimp sleeves to make emergency release for each door.
NEXT, will tackle the slide motor bolts and replace them with Nord-Lock washer / stud fix recommended by SLS in 2018 SLS Fix
 
Now waiting for the new actuators and SS nylon coated fishing line and crimp sleeves to make emergency release for each door.
I would love to see some photos of how you do this; especially how you hide the cables and where.

TJ
 
I would love to see some photos of how you do this; especially how you hide the cables and where.

TJ
Will try to remember to take some photos TJ. Most of the times I forget, even if my profession was commercial photographer many years ago ?
 
Start with setting up your tripod like you used to;)
 
I would love to see some photos of how you do this; especially how you hide the cables and where.

TJ
Check out this post on IRV2. It should give you all the info you need.
 
Jerry,
I suggested that on iRV2 in 2019, but never did it. Now I’m motivated ?
Door release
 
Jerry,
I suggested that on iRV2 in 2019, but never did it. Now I’m motivated ?
Door release
I put the pull cables on all my doors after reading all the problems others have had. For sure I will now never have a problem...just like carrying a spare part that will never be used.
 

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