Please help leaking power steering fluid can figure out from where?

[TXfreeze]

Last Sunday I noticed a fairly good amount of fluid leaking from in front of the drivers side of our 97 Winnebago adventurer, it appears to be coming from somewhere above and to the left of the breaks Master Cylinder. I naturally assumed it was brake fluid at first so I had my wife step on the break and sure enough it leaked, I checked the master cylinder reservoir and it looked almost full, for some reason the cap doesn’t stay on the reservoir. I thought maybe it’s not break fluid so I checked the power steering reservoir and sure enough it practically empty, not having any PS fluid and not knowing I could use ATF in a pinch I instead put in some Lucas stop power steering leak. I drove about a few more blocks to a gas station, with no breaking or steering problems the leak appeared to taper off, so I proceeded to the beach nearby where we would be dry camping overnight.

The next day all hell broke loose! As we were leaving the beach, a terrible whirring sound was coming from what can I only think is the power steering pump. I immediately pulled over and sure enough foamy power steering fluid was leaking profusely. I went online to see if you can use break fluid which I had on hand as power steering fluid, which I learned you can’t as it will ruin the PS pump but At I learned about being able to use ATF so I poured that in and it right away cameout foamy once again, which I now know foam means air is escaping. So I called for a tow not dare proceeding any further. I didn’t know it at the time but our brakes are hydroboosted. So that may explain why the breaks are low pedal and break fluid appears to be being used more. So this is where we are at. I recently spoke with a local mechanic we found through my folks church. He suggested bleeding the power steering, I tried that but as soon as I start the motor fluid leaks the steering goes from power to stiff in a matter of less than a minute My guess is due to low or no fluid. I can’t have it towed to a local shop since this an RV town most mechanics are swamped this time of year.
To make matters worse I had to be towed back to where we are staying, even though I had requested a flat bed tow I got a wrecker and the drive shaft needed to be taken out, but the wrecker didn’t put it back due to policy and now I’m stuck having to do that myself with very little experience. Add to the frustration I have to do bucket runs to get rid of holding tanks water and we have to be out of here in less than 2 weeks. So I’dont have the luxury of time to wait to be towed to a shop and have to wait longer than I could do it myself or find a mechanic to come out to work on it I’m attaching a photo in the hopes that someone can identify this one part as the leak seems to be coming from somewhere above that area but I can’t access it even with the doghouse off. The most likely culprits are a bad main line, bad PS pump or bad seals in the Hydrobooster which I’ve read there are rebuild kits but mixed opinions about them Sorry if this was long and winded. Thanks

 

[latech]

hydraboost is likely leaking.But you need to get up in there and look to see if it is a hose to the booster.
A hydraboost is not easy to change due to its location.
You wont be rebuilding it, you will be replacing it with a rebuilt.Most shops wont rebuild it.I would not suggest you try to.
Sorry for your trouble

 

[TXfreeze]

hydraboost is likely leaking.But you need to get up in there and look to see if it is a hose to the booster.
A hydraboost is not easy to change due to its location.
You wont be rebuilding it, you will be replacing it with a rebuilt.Most shops wont rebuild it.I would not suggest you try to.
Sorry for your trouble

Thanks for the reply, I finally found where the leak is coming from I’m including photo and video is too big file I couldn’t get too close since I was getting fluid on my phone but it’s definitely a rusted line in the photo you can see the foamy fluid that is accumulating on the enclosure., I could see the fluid spewing out of it, it is right above the part in question, that area is inaccessible unless a rusted old panel is removed, I don’t see any other way of accessing it, I can slightly see it wit the doghouse open, and it does indeed appear to be the hydroboost line. As far as the hydrobooster goes I had a good look at it it looks fairly new has the blue cylinder like I’ve seen on Oreilly’s and there is no fluid anywhere around it as far as I can tell the only place leaking is that line, what does that line terminate too and how hard is it to replace?

 

[latech]

Take a cutoff saw to that piece of crap shield. Cut it off. Fix the line. Then Fab up a new shield that you can fasten on with a few bolts, so you can get to it with a wrench next time if need be.
Do all those in shop type things to make repairs easier when out of the shop .
I have air operated version of this ( not harbor freight) .Just wanted to post a pic so you know what kind of saw I mean.
The harbor freight saw might be OK...IDK.. Its worth a try.Let me know.If it works good I will get one . It would be super handy out on the road.

3 in. High Speed Electric Cut-Off Tool

 

[latech]

To remove the line,if you can feel the nut but cant see it ,or get a wrench on it, you may need a crowsfoot.
Harbor feight crowfoots arent the greatest, they may work.
These here if you can find them look excellent

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/BK_7740126?cid=paidsearch_shopping_dcoe_google&campaign=GSC-Tools-Equipment&campaign_id=8553470562&adgroup_id=107047174069&adtype=pla&gclid=Cj0KCQjwyYKUBhDJARIsAMj9lkGgPVUWPfQaZ7WRs3GHcgDJKUuPjaxQCiyF2Gd4tM4KpbnQxhlRAxMaAlsoEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds&

You may be able to rent them at advanced auto parts too.

If I Remember Correctly, the nut on that line will be 18 MM , could be 16. Not sure
Might change with manufacturer too.Replacement line may have diiferent size.
Pay very close attention the the O Ring on the new line.Be sure to turn the nut in by hand a few turns first.

 

[latech]

BTW, the line comes from the steering pump. It will be the pressure hose.

Be sure which one you have.

The pump supplys pressure to the hydroboost. Then on to the steering pump. Both the booster and the pump have a low pressure return line so fluid is returned seprately from each as they are used independently

 

[latech]

Of course if you find it is the return line , that will somewhat easier to repair.
Rubber return Lines will be fastened with merely as hose clamp. Or a crimp style clamp (oetecker style) , or even a constant tension clamp

https://www.grainger.com/product/5EFD5?ef_id=Cj0KCQjwyYKUBhDJARIsAMj9lkEir96fRe3OAtmx1th_zHTaPh8Fl63QiccC9dxdIJRDzYv6svIs4lsaAjtpEALw_wcB:G:s&s_kwcid=AL!2966!3!496359977260!!!g!1664546720524!&gucid=N:N:PS:Paid:GGL:CSM-2295:4P7A1P:20501231&gclid=Cj0KCQjwyYKUBhDJARIsAMj9lkEir96fRe3OAtmx1th_zHTaPh8Fl63QiccC9dxdIJRDzYv6svIs4lsaAjtpEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

Clamp Full Tab Constant Tension 9mm - 50mm

Bel-Metric sells metric hardware & specialty automotive supplies nationwide. Visit our website to purchase metric fasteners, nuts, bolts, Time-Sert kits & more.

belmetric.com

 

[latech]

When I take off a return line they are usually cooked on .Using brute force to remove a baked on hose may result in a broken metal tube on the steering reservoir.
I cut them with a razor blade and peel them gently like and orange to minimize any force the the tube so it doent break loose at the reservoir / cansiter. You will see what I mean.
So track down the EXACT line that is leaking ,and watch for the things I posted.
Remember, I do this crap every day for a living.

 

[latech]

I willkeep an eye on this thread in case you get stuck.Just post up what you need , I will help where I can

 

[TXfreeze]

Take a cutoff saw to that piece of crap shield. Cut it off. Fix the line. Then Fab up a new shield that you can fasten on with a few bolts, so you can get to it with a wrench next time if need be.
Do all those in shop type things to make repairs easier when out of the shop .
I have air operated version of this ( not harbor freight) .Just wanted to post a pic so you know what kind of saw I mean.
The harbor freight saw might be OK...IDK.. Its worth a try.Let me know.If it works good I will get one . It would be super handy out on the road.

3 in. High Speed Electric Cut-Off Too

I just about gave up on my post here, I've been getting advice on a Winnebago owners forum and he was able to take the shield off with and impact wrench, I agree with you 100% about in shop vs. out of shop and since I don't have a impact wrench, I do need a cutoff saw I'm going to see if I can find something better than Harbor Freight quality I haven't had good too many good experiences with their tools. I will respond back on the rest of your replies.

 

[TXfreeze]

To remove the line,if you can feel the nut but cant see it ,or get a wrench on it, you may need a crowsfoot.
Harbor feight crowfoots arent the greatest, they may work.
These here if you can find them look excellent

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/BK_7740126?cid=paidsearch_shopping_dcoe_google&campaign=GSC-Tools-Equipment&campaign_id=8553470562&adgroup_id=107047174069&adtype=pla&gclid=Cj0KCQjwyYKUBhDJARIsAMj9lkGgPVUWPfQaZ7WRs3GHcgDJKUuPjaxQCiyF2Gd4tM4KpbnQxhlRAxMaAlsoEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds&

You may be able to rent them at advanced auto parts too.

If I Remember Correctly, the nut on that line will be 18 MM , could be 16. Not sure
Might change with manufacturer too.Replacement line may have diiferent size.
Pay very close attention the the O Ring on the new line.Be sure to turn the nut in by hand a few turns first.

So what you are telling me here may be why the RV mechanic I just spoke with said this, the only way to to access the busted line is to remove the front grill, headlight and I think he said radiator I couldn't understand him half the time he sounded like he was underwater.

 

[TXfreeze]

BTW, the line comes from the steering pump. It will be the pressure hose.
View attachment 12285
Be sure which one you have.

The pump supplys pressure to the hydroboost. Then on to the steering pump. Both the booster and the pump have a low pressure return line so fluid is returned seprately from each as they are used independently

I've already seen this the member on the owners forum shared the same thing.

 

[TXfreeze]

When I take off a return line they are usually cooked on .Using brute force to remove a baked on hose may result in a broken metal tube on the steering reservoir.
I cut them with a razor blade and peel them gently like and orange to minimize any force the the tube so it doent break loose at the reservoir / cansiter. You will see what I mean.
So track down the EXACT line that is leaking ,and watch for the things I posted.
Remember, I do this crap every day for a living.

I understand that, as I can see the PS reservoir has metal lines that look rusted I was thinking if it breaks I will have to replace the reservoir

 

[TXfreeze]

Of course if you find it is the return line , that will somewhat easier to repair.
Rubber return Lines will be fastened with merely as hose clamp. Or a crimp style clamp (oetecker style) , or even a constant tension clamp

https://www.grainger.com/product/5E...9dxdIJRDzYv6svIs4lsaAjtpEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

Clamp Full Tab Constant Tension 9mm - 50mm

Bel-Metric sells metric hardware & specialty automotive supplies nationwide. Visit our website to purchase metric fasteners, nuts, bolts, Time-Sert kits & more.

belmetric.com

I've been wondering if it could be a return line do they have the same amount of pressure in the line as the line to the Hydroboost?

 

[latech]

return lines have very low pressure. The pressure line has around 1500 -2500 PSI

 

[TXfreeze]

I appreciate that, thanks

return lines have very low pressure. The pressure line has around 1500 -2500 PSI

So if that's the case the leak wouldn't be as fast as it is, I mean it spews out like a high pressure water hose, it's not likely the return line is it?

 

[latech]

without looking I could not say. But I think you are on the right track.
Look at the hose that is leaking. Follow it back to the pump. If it goes into the high pressure fitting on the back then it is the high pressure hose.
If it goes to the tube on the back of the reservoir, then it is the return,or low pressure side

 

[TXfreeze]

Well I now have a mechanic to do the job the reservoir lines coming and going to it are full of rust so I"m going to have the reservoir and lines replaced just to be on the safe side. The reservoir was only $24 at Oreilly's and the lines are pretty inexpensive. On a side but related note The guy who towed me took off my drive shaft off even though it didn't need since he towed in neutral and it was only 3 miles , anyway the clamps that hold the Ujoint in place are rusted as are the bolts so I bought a strap kit but the clamps are a hair too big, I need to figure out the exact size of them so the driveshaft can be installed back. Unfortunately the only Ujoint kit is Dorman Orielly's and Autozone that's all they have, was gonna try Napa and see if they know and have it. Any idea about that partl?

 

[latech]

Not sure about the straps.
I see dorman kit part # 81020. Funny thing is it has 2 different size straps, and 4 bolts 2 of one size, and 2 of another.
You may need 2 kits to get a full set of straps and correct bolts, and have a full set of another completley different size straps and bolts

Probably the best bet is take the old stuff to NAPA and have them match it up

 

["EZ"]

I

Well I now have a mechanic to do the job the reservoir lines coming and going to it are full of rust so I"m going to have the reservoir and lines replaced just to be on the safe side. The reservoir was only $24 at Oreilly's and the lines are pretty inexpensive. On a side but related note The guy who towed me took off my drive shaft off even though it didn't need since he towed in neutral and it was only 3 miles , anyway the clamps that hold the Ujoint in place are rusted as are the bolts so I bought a strap kit but the clamps are a hair too big, I need to figure out the exact size of them so the driveshaft can be installed back. Unfortunately the only Ujoint kit is Dorman Orielly's and Autozone that's all they have, was gonna try Napa and see if they know and have it. Any idea about that partl?

If you are in a city of any size there will be a drive line shop. Most heavy truck dealerships use them a lot when they shorten or lengthen the wheelbase on trucks. (happens all the time) Ask your local Freightliner dealer or International dealer who they use. They can help.