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13.5 A/C

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"D"

RVF Regular
Joined
Mar 11, 2023
Messages
5
Location
SW LOUISIANA
RV Year
2016
RV Make
JAYCO
RV Model
EAGLE HT 26.5
RV Length
32
TOW/TOAD
2016 2500 RAM
Fulltimer
No
Can you run a 13.5 on 15 amp for a few minutes to test?
 
Maybe, depending on what else is on that circuit. Turn off everything else in the trailer including the converter. I can run it on my 15 amp house circuit for a while, but I think something else in the house kicks on because then the breaker flips (and it's not only when the compressor comes on, it seems pretty random.)
 
Forgive me, what is a 13.5 ac unit
 
Running draw for a new 13.5 btu a/c is 12-13 amps in a ‘spec world’.
However you will need a “soft start“ device as most motors pull significantly more at start up without some type of modification.
 
Maybe, depending on what else is on that circuit. Turn off everything else in the trailer including the converter. I can run it on my 15 amp house circuit for a while, but I think something else in the house kicks on because then the breaker flips (and it's not only when the compressor comes on, it seems pretty random.)
thanks, I checked again and it is actually 20 amp with ground fault. I'm gonna try it. Just bought a used camper and want to make sure a/c is cold before a trip.
 
Connect to the AC service. Be sure everything else is off or flip the breakers except for the Air Cond breaker in the converter panel. Then turn on the Air Cond. If it runs, then the answer to your question is YES. If it trips the 15A or 20A breaker, whichever it happens to be, then the answer is NO. There will be no harm done either way. That's the purpose of circuit breakers.

You need to run a temperature check on the unit. Easy to do. Use a duct thermometer and measure the air intake/return air temperature inside the RV. Then after the Air Cond runs for a few minutes, measure the air out of the system at the vents. There should be a 20-degree to 25-degree difference. If the differential is less, then the unit may need service or may need refrigerant. They can be recharged and checked for leaks. This is in spite of being told it is a sealed system and can not be serviced. Also, check the air filter and observe the evaporator coil for dirt build-up. Carefully clean as needed.

I had Shrader valves installed on ours, had it recharged, and it has been good for going on 3 years now. Why was it low to start with? No clue other than the fact it sat and was not used for 3 years prior. I have the thermostat set at 80 degrees and let it run as necessary.

Bob
 
Just watch the extension cord you have plugged into the outlet.

Used to run ours periodically off a 20 amp outlet and the extension cord would warm up a bit.
 
Just watch the extension cord you have plugged into the outlet.

Used to run ours periodically off a 20 amp outlet and the extension cord would warm up a bit.
The shore cord is 10awg for 30 amp service. To avoid low voltage, only use the same in your extension cord. Best not to use any extension cord at all. More than be concerned about the cord is concern about the cord ends (cord caps).
 
Just watch the extension cord you have plugged into the outlet.

Used to run ours periodically off a 20 amp outlet and the extension cord would warm up a bit.
I bought a 12/3 cord. It did not get hot at all. Thanks.
 
A 12/3 cord should be good for 20 amps. Also be aware that longer cords, i.e. 50 ft+, should be upped one size of wire to minimize voltage drop.

Beware of those big heavy-duty-looking cords that have small wires. Remember, it isn't the outside that counts, it is the inside that handles the amps. More copper = more amps.

Bob
 
You can run it on a 20 amp circuit. I know my Dometic 13.5k BTU A/C unit pulls 18.3 amps (2196 watts) on start up and then drops to around 13.5 amps (1620 watts) according to my ampmeter. So 20 Amps should be sufficient. I took the measurements a while back when I was considering what size generator to buy. I have been thinking of buying a soft start kit, but since I went with a larger inverter generator I may not worry about it now.
 
Last edited:
We have a 13.5K BTU unit in our trailer. I use a 2500-watt Champion inverter generator powered on gas. I do have to switch it out of economy mode to run the AC and converter.

Do note that generators that are dual fuel are de-rated when run on LP. I've considered going to a 3 KW inverter generator but at nearly 100 lbs I deem that a bit much for this old man to lift in and out of the truck.

Bob
 
We have a 13.5K BTU unit in our trailer. I use a 2500-watt Champion inverter generator powered on gas. I do have to switch it out of economy mode to run the AC and converter.

Do note that generators that are dual fuel are de-rated when run on LP. I've considered going to a 3 KW inverter generator but at nearly 100 lbs I deem that a bit much for this old man to lift in and out of the truck.

Bob
I agree Bob, I was worried about weight too, I found one by Genmax for $550 that was 3200 watt starting and 2800 watts running, and it only weighs 47 lbs :eek:. That was the lightest one I could find with that kind of wattage at the time and its a gas only generator.

Genmax 3200 watt Inverter Generator
 

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