Tip Advise against using locking hitch pins for RV toads (towed vehicles)

[CaptainGizmo]

Good point, TJ!

 

[DKRITTER]

When we bought our DS and F150 a little over a year ago I ordered a Blue Ox Avail from ETrailer.com (great folks) and did the install myself. Tow bar wasn’t quite level, so I bought a drop bar.

I quickly noticed at speed the truck seemed to float L/R enough it bothered me. When we got to our destination I installed 2 hitch immobilizers and it made a huge difference. I also bought the lock kit and have used them every time w/o issue.


This thread causes me to question using the locks.


Has anyone ever experienced theft or tampering of the unlocked pins causing a dangerous situation?


Has anyone ever experienced failure of a non-locking pin or clip?

 

[jagpot]

Simple answer, put a Lock-Pin in your HITCH only; that's what I do. So, that fully protects your Tow Bar from being stolen. (Who the heck would...never mind)

For me, the Pins on the TOAD are NOT locking and this is why...

For the "bump & run" stops, where my Raptor stays connected overnight, that's the ONLY time I'm at risk of having someone disconnect me. However, it's impossible for me to drive off with it disconnected since I do a "cross-check" every single time I depart.

Now, for those of us who are paranoid or have heard other's misfortune, there IS a risk that I don't hear anyone mention. I hope auto-burgs aren't reading this. IF...IF...some crook really wanted to pull a sneaky one, they'd roll up with a flat-bed wrecker, pull the TOAD pins, disconnect the safety cables, and yank that sucker onto the flatbed, and off they go with a $65k Raptor!

Let me be the contrarian here. As one who has had a hitch pin pulled as a prank (years ago), I still use a locking pin; and, will continue to do so.

We carry extra, and readily accessible, fire extingushers, so that's my first line of defense as soon as I get stopped. Then, rather than get between the toad and the coach (and partially underneath the coach to boot) to pull the hitch pin, I can just pull the two pins that secure the tow bars to the toad, disconnect the safety cables (you have to do that regardless of what you unhook) and signal my co-pilot to pull away. The pins that secure the arms are out closer to the sides of the toad and are much more accessible to reach and pull.

As a plus, this keeps my tow bar assembly secured to the coach when I am parked and prevents tampering or theft. The individual tow bar pins are only in use when actually towing, so even if they are tampered with or stolen I will know about it the next time I go to connect the toad.

Oh...and, I also lock my PI EMS PT50X to the power pedestal. Locks keep honest people honest and insurance covers the rest.

TJ

Possible?...sure. Realistic?...not a chance. Why? Because the only time the Raptor would be alone and hooked up in "NEUTRAL TOW", would be when we are actually SLEEPING in our coach. In this case, I’d hope we’d be alerted by some noise, and then “deal” with this situation accordingly.

So, while there IS a remote chance of a "prank" from some idiot pulling your pins, the WORST thing that could happen, is that you're STUCK WITHOUT SPARE PINS!! Which reminds me...dangit...forgot about ordering a pair!

And, for the ultra paranoid, guess ya better order another set of tow arms, too, because NOTHING LOCKS THOSE TO THE TOAD! The super devious could simple release those with a quarter twist...and there ya go...disconnected TOAD!

ok here we go again! PI EMS PT50X ???? I have an Air Force One do I have this?

 

[Neal]

Progressive Industries surge protector:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015Y9A4HU/?tag=rvf01-20

 

[TJ&LadyDi]

ok here we go again! PI EMS PT50X ???? I have an Air Force One do I have this?

The "PI EMS PTX50" is a Progressive Industries surge suppressor and power circuit tester. Some RVs have a built-in surge suppressor, but many do not.

This is a unit that plugs into the park electrical power post. Your coach power cable plugs into it. The purpose is to guard against damaging power spikes as well as low-voltage situations that can damage things like air conditioners, etc.

Do you need one? Well, I do, but I see some folks doing without them. I guess it boils down to how much of a gambler you are.

This unit instantly detects a power spike and opens the electrical circuit, preventing high voltage from entering your coach's electrical system. It also monitors low voltage and drops the circuit out if the voltage gets below a preset level. Unfortunately, many RV parks suffer from the low-voltage situation. More on that in a minute.

An additional benefit of the PI EMS PT50 is that it can run a diagnostic on the park power source before you plug in, detecting improper grounds, dead or reversed legs, etc. That allows you to verify the integrity of the power source before you plug in.

Back to the low-voltage situation for a moment. Many RV parks (especially older ones) have poorly constructed power distribution systems; undersized writing, poorly maintained breaker boxes. odd-ball wiring not done by a qualified electrician, etc. In these parks, when occupancy levels get high (park is more than half full or so) and everyone turns on their air conditioners, voltage levels sag...sometimes to dangerously low levels. Nominally, the power should be at 120 volts under load. I have seen some parks where the voltage sags to less than 100 volts in high-use periods. Bad for coach electrical systems and appliances.

So, you may also see references to a "Hughes Autoformer" in regard to low-voltage. This is another "accessory" that can boost voltage levels about 10% and prevent electrical damage to the coach systems. Do you "need" that? Probably only if you will be staying in older RV parks or places not designed for modern motorhomes. You will find that RVers tend to carry a number of "accessories" that protect their safety or that of their coach.

TJ

 

[TJ&LadyDi]

Progressive Industries surge protector:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015Y9A4HU/?tag=rvf01-20

I'm running behind today, @Neal. You are the second guy to beat me to the post button today.

TJ

 

[sheridany]

Actually not. Neal has a secret website that lets us know you are replying. Works like a charm. ?

 

[Neal]

Actually not. Neal has a secret website that lets us know you are replying. Works like a charm. ?

And it only needs dimes!

 

[DKRITTER]

Wow, some of you are walking around with foil on you head.

 

[TJ&LadyDi]

Wow, some of you are walking around with foil on you head.

As my dad would have said, "Sometimes it goes on like this for days, then it gets worse!"

TJ

 

[sheridany]

At least we have moved on from pineapples...

 

[jagpot]

The "PI EMS PTX50" is a Progressive Industries surge suppressor and power circuit tester. Some RVs have a built-in surge suppressor, but many do not.

This is a unit that plugs into the park electrical power post. Your coach power cable plugs into it. The purpose is to guard against damaging power spikes as well as low-voltage situations that can damage things like air conditioners, etc.

Do you need one? Well, I do, but I see some folks doing without them. I guess it boils down to how much of a gambler you are.

This unit instantly detects a power spike and opens the electrical circuit, preventing high voltage from entering your coach's electrical system. It also monitors low voltage and drops the circuit out if the voltage gets below a preset level. Unfortunately, many RV parks suffer from the low-voltage situation. More on that in a minute.

An additional benefit of the PI EMS PT50 is that it can run a diagnostic on the park power source before you plug in, detecting improper grounds, dead or reversed legs, etc. That allows you to verify the integrity of the power source before you plug in.

Back to the low-voltage situation for a moment. Many RV parks (especially older ones) have poorly constructed power distribution systems; undersized writing, poorly maintained breaker boxes. odd-ball wiring not done by a qualified electrician, etc. In these parks, when occupancy levels get high (park is more than half full or so) and everyone turns on their air conditioners, voltage levels sag...sometimes to dangerously low levels. Nominally, the power should be at 120 volts under load. I have seen some parks where the voltage sags to less than 100 volts in high-use periods. Bad for coach electrical systems and appliances.

So, you may also see references to a "Hughes Autoformer" in regard to low-voltage. This is another "accessory" that can boost voltage levels about 10% and prevent electrical damage to the coach systems. Do you "need" that? Probably only if you will be staying in older RV parks or places not designed for modern motorhomes. You will find that RVers tend to carry a number of "accessories" that protect their safety or that of their coach.

TJ

ok got it! I have this surge protector. The couple before me had it! Now did you say you put a lock on the pedal of the tow car. Like where the Air force is? Is this just a standard lock? I have learned a lot on this site. Locking pins,tow arms or hitch pins, developing checklists, fire extinguishers handy near the back of coach,tire sensors. Oh MY!!!

 

[NWIP]

No lock pin for your toad braking system. The pin referenced is the pin going thru the tow bar locking it into the receiver on the motorhome. Discussion is should you use a locking pin so that your tow bar can’t be stolen.

 

[Neal]

At least we have moved on from pineapples...

Seasonal. Eggnog now. Of course on pizza.

 

[MapNerd]

Here’s another reason not to use locking pins which I learned today. Went to take the bike rack off of the hitch of our toad so I could take it through a car wash and found it severely corroded. It was a keyed locking pin and after inserting the key, it just would not turn. I sprayed some WD-40 in and let it sit, tried again 30 minutes later. No dice. Tried PB Blaster, that seemed to make it worse because before I could at least jiggle the key but the PB Blaster seemed to turn the tumbler into a stone. Likely rust came off and jammed it up even more as I couldn’t even wiggle the key after that.

Then it happened, I turned too hard and too fast and broke the key off.

Out comes the angle grinder. Cut off the pin and removed the bike rack. Got the truck cleaned and picked up a standard bent pin with a cotter pin.

locks are great but unless you’re towing some really high value stuff, they might be more hassle than they are worth.