Welcome to RVForums.com

  • Register now and join the discussion
  • Friendliest RV Community on the web
  • Modern site for PC's, Phones, Tablets - no 3rd party apps required
  • Ask questions, help others, review campgrounds
  • Get the most out of the RV Lifestyle
  • Invite everyone to RVForums.com and let's have fun
  • Commercial/Vendors welcome

Best truck for towing, and why?

Welcome to RVForums.com

  • Register now and join the discussion
  • Modern secure site, no 3rd party apps required
  • Invite your friends and let's have fun
  • Commercial/Vendors welcome
  • Friendliest RV community on the web
A diesel engine increases the truck's towing capacity and this is easy to verify in minutes. Yes the engine is heavier but that affects the front wheels and has a negligible impact on payload capacity at the rear axle. Even with a 5th wheel travel trailer the most that is going to be carried at the rear wheels is 4,000 lbs.
With a gas engine a truck is going to get 6-9 mpg pulling a 12,000 lb trailer but the same truck with the diesel engine is going to get 11-13 mpg and this makes a big difference in driving range on a tank of fuel. The diesel engine has an exhaust brake and when working properly they make for much more comfortable driving on downgrades with a heavy load or a heavy trailer.
Lots of opinions get posted by people with no real world experience which is most unfortunate.
Diesels cost twice as puch to operate but if pulling a trailer that weighs more than 10,000 lbs the cost is worth it many times over. Try to safely accelerate to 65 mph to merge with traffic while towing a heavy trailer and if you have a diesel engine in the truck you will soon appreciate its value.
 
I drive a 2017 Ram 3500 DWR Cummins 6.7 diesel pulling a 2013 DRV Suites 38 foot. This is 14000lb with 3800 pin weight I average 9.5 mpg combined towing this rig and could not be happier. I really appreciate the exhaust brake and the Cummins in the mountains. I tried it with a Ford F250 diesel but just not enough truck for the big DRV. You cannot get enough payload the a 3/4 ton truck to load a big 5th wheel. Just too much pin weight for the tires and axle. My opinion get the most truck you can as it will be less costly in the long run. Most buy a RV and always want bigger and better
 
I agree with druidcat. When we began full timing it was in a 3 year old Montana fiver (3800RL). I had a F350 with the 6.7 diesel but it was SRW and a short bed. I weighed twice a year hooked up and loaded and was always at the top limit. To me it was just a constant worry.

This time around when we were going back to a fiver I went with another F350 but instead of a short bed SRW I went with the long bed DRW and max payload package. I'll never need to have over 6,000 pounds of payload in my bed but it is a great feeling to know I can go that high. My current 44' loaded fiver doesn't even squat this beast.

My advise would be to figure out what truck would get the job done and then jump up to the next one with a higher payload.
 
3/4 ton up will feel truck like. If it doesn't there will be lots of squat when hauling. The rest is brand preference. I like strong transmissions because I feel that is the weak link in a tow vehicle. For me that would have me leaning toward the GM branded vehicle with Allison trans unless I was going standard trans. In that case it would be the Cummings engine option. That by the way is why you see a lot of RAMs pulling RVs.
You lose towing capacity with the newer standards over the automatics. Also in this day and age there are many who cant drive a standard.
 
I realize I'm resurrecting an old thread but wanted to share my thoughts for anyone else who's considering a heavy duty truck for towing.

I wouldn't even consider a 2500 unless I really needed the improved maneuverability of the shorter wheelbase afforded by the smaller cab and standard (6.5 ft) box. A 3500 costs ~$1500-2000 more and rides the same but I believe most of them are only available with the longer wheelbase (157" or longer vs 145").
Also, be aware that a diesel 2500 may not have any more payload than a 1500 as the increase in GVWR is essentially offset by the increased weight of the engine. That's not to say that the 2500 won't tow better but you could jump up to a HD truck and still not technically be within its capacity.

I'm partial to the GM trucks as they have independent front suspension, which makes them ride smoother and eliminates the death wobble that Ford Super Duties are prone to.

Be aware that the 6.4 Hemi gas engine in the Ram 2500 has cylinder deactivation, which is supposedly good for fuel economy but is not so good for reliability.

I would only buy a diesel if I was working it hard and often. Modern diesels do not like short trips in the city/stop and go, especially unloaded. Don't plan to use one for commuting unless you want to do lots of exhaust system regens.

Also, sorry if this repeats some stuff that was covered previously.
 
If a 5th wheel is in your future you would be wise to look at 350/3500 pickups. Any 250/2500 is going t be marginal for most 5th wheels on the market today. I have a 2022 3500 Duramax SWB, 4WD, Crew Cab that has a useful load rating of 3927. Most late model 250/2500's are going to be 3000 to 3300. I have ridden in a 2500 that is equipped like my 3500, and unloaded I can't tell any difference in ride.
 
Great information Rosy, never had to tow since in a Class C. Always liked/wished I had the Chevy 3500 HD Diesel for towing or truck camping. It was recommended to go 70% of truck capabilities, towing and payload. Maybe next life.
 

Latest resources

Back
Top