city water connection fills FW tank

[colettek]

hello!
we are snowbirds in Central florida. we own a Jayco redhawk 29-xk 2017. while connected to city water the fresh water tank gets fillled and comes out from the 3 hoses of the overflow under camper. we tried everything. we went thru 3 shure flow water pump thinking that the switch valve was bad. we ve been told to add a regulator and add a shut off valve after the pump. it’s still leaking. jayco said we could try to replace the manifold. that’s 360$ we are not sure if that wil solve the problem. anybody ran into this type of problem?

 

[Kevin D Pem]

Try a back flow valve in front of the pump, and while you're at it, a strainer as well.

 

[AbdRahim]

A lot of times turning off city water and running the pump, then turning off the pump and going back to city corrects the problem

The problem is often caused by turning on city water with the pump on. Aleays turn off the pump before turning on city water.

 

[DennisT]

Had this happen on our old Forester. Ran the pump since I hadn’t turned water back on when we got back to the RV.

Once I turned on water again the fresh water tank filled and overflowed. Ran the pump again and turned city off and back on reset the check valve on the pump.

 

[RVThereYet]

That is a very common problem. There is a valve within the pump. Gets stuck by reason of the above post or calcium deposits can cause it to stick. You can rebuild the pump valves if that is the last resort. Been there, done that!

 

[Kevin D Pem]

That is a very common problem. There is a valve within the pump. Gets stuck by reason of the above post or calcium deposits can cause it to stick. You can rebuild the pump valves if that is the last resort. Been there, done that!

Or you can install a back flow preventer! That is my method, RV products are basic junk.

 

[RVThereYet]

Or you can install a back flow preventer! That is my method, RV products are basic junk.

Kevin, I am not sure you understand the problem. Its not a back flow problem, its a misdirection [problem.
The valve is supposed to allow water in and bypass the fresh water tank and just go to your water lines. The valve gets messed up and sticks for whatever the reason and the water ends up doing both!
I found out the hard way and had a dealer replace the pump. Pump isn't that expensive but the labor sure was.
You can, like I said, take it apart. clean it or replace the valves and it's like new.

 

[Kevin D Pem]

Kevin, I am not sure you understand the problem. Its not a back flow problem, its a misdirection [problem.
The valve is supposed to allow water in and bypass the fresh water tank and just go to your water lines. The valve gets messed up and sticks for whatever the reason and the water ends up doing both!
I found out the hard way and had a dealer replace the pump. Pump isn't that expensive but the labor sure was.
You can, like I said, take it apart. clean it or replace the valves and it's like new.

Yup! I know, I get it, the water back flows thru the pump. You can keep replacing pumps, or find alternatives to RV junk. Once you have done that you wonder why high end RV manufacturers haven't figured it out!!!

When I had a basement, I even replaced one pump with a shallow well pump. Then still, if not factory, people reject better products, I don't!!!

 

[TheLooks]

As usual, Kevin is correct. The check valve(back flow preventer) is built into the pump. IF it fails, just add a quality (check valve/back flow preventer) into the output side of the pump and move on.

 

[RVThereYet]

Yesw Kevin islcorrect BUT, 6 of one half dozen of the other. But a back flow preventer or just rebuild the pump valve. Some conclusion different road to get there.

 

[TheLooks]

Actually it is not 6 of one and half dozen of the other. I do this for a living and just this morning in a business meeting we decided to add a check valve to ALL new installs of pumps. This is because we have had 4 new pumps in a row leak at the pressure shut off on the front of the pump and we cannot control the water pressure from the varied campgrounds. One yesterday measured 80 psi and the pump is rated for 55. For us a callback is a huge loss.

 

[RVThereYet]

Actually it is not 6 of one and half dozen of the other. I do this for a living and just this morning in a business meeting we decided to add a check valve to ALL new installs of pumps. This is because we have had 4 new pumps in a row leak at the pressure shut off on the front of the pump and we cannot control the water pressure from the varied campgrounds. One yesterday measured 80 psi and the pump is rated for 55. For us a callback is a huge loss.

Understand trying to solve the problem.
I guess my point is, a normal person that is up on doing what they are supposed to do would use a water pressure regulator to prevent that ridiculous pressure you said was causing this problem. I ran into a RV Park in NM last summer that the pressure sometime hits 100 psi. That was according to the front office when I asked about their pressure. I have always used a regulator.
Not sure what business you are in as you have not stated, only that you "do this for a living". I am not a repair person but not sure what a check valve in front of the pump solves unless you meant a regulator.
My understanding of a check valve is it prevents water from back flowing when it is not desired.
From what the repair folks showed me when my FW tank filled like mentioned, it was a valve inside the pump, which is easy to clean and/or replace. I chose to just replace the pump as it was old anyway. Problem solved.
The internal valve that allows the flow to go either from the pump or from city water side was thick with calcium deposits I assume from very hard water. I have double filters on my new 5er to help prevent that now.

 

[TheLooks]

Snarky, I like it. I am a certified, licensed, and insured RV tech. I do this every day. Seems you do not understand a couple of things. Many many people have no idea about water pressures, fittings, or even that they have a pump onboard. Only one of the 4 pumps leaked with high pressure present. But the check valves failed in all 4. The check valves prevent water from filling the tanks, but some systems have valves between the tank and the pump anyways so this is not always the case. Hot water heaters have check valves screwed into the fitting of the tank, in the output line itself, on both in and out, there are many ways it is done, none is wrong. I suggested putting a check valve, a valve that only allows water to flow one way, on the output side of the pump as the one in the pump seems to fail more often. It is cheaper then a new pump. The pump is fine and does not need to be replaced. And filters will not prevent calcium buildup as it is dissolved in the water. Unless you have reverse osmosis or special filters.

 

[Kevin D Pem]

Actually it is not 6 of one and half dozen of the other. I do this for a living and just this morning in a business meeting we decided to add a check valve to ALL new installs of pumps. This is because we have had 4 new pumps in a row leak at the pressure shut off on the front of the pump and we cannot control the water pressure from the varied campgrounds. One yesterday measured 80 psi and the pump is rated for 55. For us a callback is a huge loss.

I'm not certified in anything but common sense! OK already, yes I read to the end of the thread before making any comments.

Anyhow I am glad your looking outside the box, I think as though there wasn't a box at all.


It isn't always possible to explain your rationale, but let me try anyway!!!

the pumps are designed for much lower pressures, therefore, to protect the pump from debilitating pressure, the best way is a flow preventer before the pump. You keep up the good work, and you won't have time to spend here!!!

 

[TheLooks]

I think there was a compliment in there somewhere......