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Resolved desperate about 12v power.

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K-Rae

RVF Regular
Joined
Aug 22, 2020
Messages
22
Hello everyone. I am new to the forums. This will be cross threaded with (weird 12v power problem by Time on 08/13/2020. I just wanted a new thread for my RV make.
Im having the same exact problem except for my inside power dont come back on. I have been without inside power for about 3 weeks and trying everything and looking everywhere to figure out whats going on.

I have a 1992 fleetwood Flair, 454 engine.
Onan 4000 genset emerald plus.
My external inverter is a Champion digital hybrid 4000 starting watts.
Converter /charger is a 40 amp Magnetek 900 series.

My question is.....so i can preform the cleaning on the push rod for the relay.

WHERE IS THE RELAY SWITCH AND OR THE AUTOMATIC TRANSFER SWITCH)

If the cleaning dont work then i dont know where to go from there and im hoping you all can help me out.

The Magnetek is working, its still doing its normal hum while plugged into shore power or using internal or external gennys.

I need to run to the store so if i dont answer for a while thats why.
Let me say I appreciate the feedback and help from everyone in advance.

I enclosed a pic of my Magnetek for reference.
159811890129082513666166956532.jpg
15981189769976286318483284519125.jpg
 
You are looking in the wrong place. If 12v power is there when generator or house is plugged in the converter is working. Before I go further go to this web page and download your manual. Owner's Manuals
I found nothing in the manual (as I expected) that would switch the 12 volts off. You may find a switch that is turned off when storing your rig to keep the battery from draining because of parasitic load. My 95 winnie had one, I think my mother in laws Pace arrow had one. As stated in your owners manual because of the variety of models no electrical manuals are available.

I would make sure batteries are connected right to produce 12v. Then I would follow with multi-meter where I expected power, like at the fuse block.
if when the gen is running /you have 12v I would disconnect the batteries after the gen was running and see if power was making it's way back to the battery from the converter.

I would look everywhere for a battery disconnect switch that would be used for storage. Good luck.
 
Well I do live in my RV full time so it hasnt been stored. Everything works perfect from generator to shore power. Batteries charge up. Just nothing from the battery. I tested the control panel when im plugged to shore power and had a reading. But no reading at all when im unplugged.
 
Well I do live in my RV full time so it hasnt been stored. Everything works perfect from generator to shore power. Batteries charge up. Just nothing from the battery. I tested the control panel when im plugged to shore power and had a reading. But no reading at all when im unplugged.
Just because you live in the RV full time does not mean you didn't hit the switch by accident.
 
The Magnetek is working, its still doing its normal hum while plugged into shore power or using internal or external gennys.
I wouldn't rely on a "normal hum" to know if the "Magnetek is working." Use a multimeter and check the actual output at the unit. If it has a proper output at the unit, follow the circuit to the next level. I can't help but think that a fuse is out somewhere.

TJ
 
I wouldn't rely on a "normal hum" to know if the "Magnetek is working." Use a multimeter and check the actual output at the unit. If it has a proper output at the unit, follow the circuit to the next level. I can't help but think that a fuse is out somewhere.

TJ
I checked every fuse in 3 separate places. Only one was out and it wasnt my problem.
As for runnin down the line from point A to point B.....i would greatly appreciate a punch list of A to B. where do i start? Everyone must understand im not a guy who knows mechanics/electrical. I am female, i have had my RV 2 years now and most of which i have fixed myself. Well, except for the master brake cylinder. That went to a shop.
I know very little about electrical but im learning as i go. And would rather ask fellow RV'ers for help rather then pay ridiculously high shop prices.
So any help would be great. Thank you in advance.
 
The hard way is to follow the wire (get dirty) from the battery back to the converter. You will be looking for a wire of similar size to the wire for the main connection on the fuse block in the house wiring Likely very close to the converter. You will likely find a inline fuse holder, fuseable link(wire that acts like a fuse), or relay.

Or You may find a auto reset breaker close to the battery. if that is the case that breaker is likely the weak link. A little history,
All electrical circuits are fused close to the power source, This is not a maybe but a requirement for fire prevention.

Because you have two power sources, the converter, and the battery bank, proper procedure is fuse both ends of the wire. When you overloaded the circuit (most likely) You were using the battery bank. The fuse close to the battery likely failed. Remember this can be an inline fuse, fuseable link, or auto-reset breaker. If an auto-reset breaker replace it. if it is a fuseable link it will be burned in half. I recommend a auto-reset breaker to replace it with. If it is a fuse replace it making sure you don't replace it with a larger fuse than it already has.

I'm sorry, I sometimes give information thinking others have my training. If you don't get anywhere with this I will give you one more option but it will cost you some money.(not take it in if that is what you are thinking)
 
Yes it would work. the power from the genny will run the converter giving you house power and the starter on the genny is supplied by a much larger wire.

In our minds we must isolate house from chassy systems. The only time they are connected is for charging the house battery while underway. because of this we must not confuse ourselves with the chassy system at all.

Any thing added to the coach that the wire from the battery is not fused most of the time within 3ft or before going through a wall was not installed professionally. Think of it this way: if a wire shorts and does not have a fuse the battery may explode. acid would be everywhere maybe even a fire would start. No there is a fuse someplace close to that house battery that would keep that from happening. To bad you are not around williams AZ I would say drive over to my camp and we would fix it.
 
Sorry it took so long to reply. Some other stuff came up...of course.
Funny thing is....i just drove through williams a couple weeks ago. I just drove, took my time, from California to Kansas via I-40. ?. But i did find where some relays are near my battery. Strange thing is...there is no fuse at all in the little external housing unit where the fuse would go. So that makes me think thats not what im looking for.
So tell me. If i cant find my fuse problem. Whats gonna cost me some money. I think i already know and been looking at them. I will get a picture of what i found when it gets a little lighter outside.
 
You found what you needed to find The PO likely bypassed the fuse. One of the relays is likely the connection from chassy to house used when engine is running to charge the house. The other relay is likely the relay switched by the switch I told you about with our first posts.
one relay is likely run by the ignition switch, the other relay will have wires run to the switch on some panel.

You can follow the wires and harnesses to their ends or use the tool below. it is used by the electrical industry to follow a wire via a tone imposed on a wire with the tone generator. It is a great way to find bad connections or wire breaks. No power can be applied when using this tool, dead wires only. I would take out the main 12v fuse also so only the one wire will sound.

1598367410977.png
 
Just a point. If PO removed the fuse from the system, find a way to put it back in. I was not kidding about fire danger.
 
Im sure you could imagine why i didnt get the picture....i fell back asleep. But here are a few shots of my battery and wiring system and where the fuse is.
I pray that is my problem. Also i have no clue what size fuse goes in there if there isnt one.
 
Im sure you could imagine why i didnt get the picture....i fell back asleep. But here are a few shots of my battery and wiring system and where the fuse is.
I pray that is my problem. Also i have no clue what size fuse goes in there if there isnt one.
I don't see any pictures. But lets not get ahead of ourselves. is the fuse block still hooked up? the fuse is based on wire size as that is what it is designed to protect, the wire. any smaller fuse will help in troubleshooting however, so you can use a small fuse to see if things get brighter.
 
wire size 10 AWG 40 amp fuse
wire size 8 AWG 60 amp fuse
Wire size will be printed on insulation along the run.
 
And yes everything is still hooked up. The only thing i have done is open up the area where my converter is and gave it a good cleaning, (thought I checked every fuse), i bought a new battery even though i knew that wasnt my problem., cleaned the terminals and prayed for my lights to work. But nothing. I read everything i could on line, watch you tube videos till i couldnt take it anymore. All this while on my (taking my time) trip. Then when i got to Kansas i decided to try the forums. Wish i tried the forums while i was still in cali because i bet my lights would be working today.its getting old real fast using my generator, candles, and an ice chest. I just want my "Boopster" to work again.
And as for the tool you showed me. I dont have one but i do have a test light and multimeter.
 

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