Freightliner Annual Service

[Gizmo]

When taking myFL to service in Portland, OR I printed a copy of required maintenance that Camp Freightliner provided and asked them to do everything on the list. I also asked them to sign off the sheet I provided, which they did.

This is what I do and becomes part of my records on the coach.

 

[VTPete]

Will request the same, thanks all. I guess I made the mistake of assume that the local Freightliner franchise would follow their maintenance process. Silly me.

 

[lostinfla]

We have gone to Gaffney every year (5 now) with our present coach. As Neal does, I make my next year appointment when paying for the current service. We stop in Oct on the way home from our yearly 6 month trip. I have nothing but praise for those techs. They have always gone above and beyond to get any issues repaired and done correctly.

 

[VTPete]

Wish I could get to Gaffney but that's a semi-annual trip for us from San Diego. So finally got an updated quote from my F/L service center. they want to add about $300 to do the Oil-Filled Hubs Oil Changing and the Axle Lubricant Changing and Magnetic Plug Cleaning. These items are not part of their normal "BIT Inspection". So I'm looking at $800+ for annual service. I am waiting on a quote from a 3rd party shop I've used for Generator service. He said he wouldn't recommend the oil filled hubs until 100k, as you have to disassemble the hub to fully change the oil, and 100k is when you do the brakes. The 3rd party guy also said the hubs are an extra hour or so of labo. I called F/L, they reinforced the need to do the oil filled hubs every other year at minimum.

It sounds like some of you got these extra steps done at no additional charge basically?

 

[lostinfla]

My front hubs aren't oil filled

 

[VTPete]

Hmmm, which models have the oil filled i wonder. I'm told by F/L that I have the Detroit Axles based on my VIN. Is this just a VTLE/VT issue?

 

[lostinfla]

I believe the IFS models have non oil filled. Not sure though

 

[Chuggs]

It’s true...the oil filled hubs will only drain about half of their oil without disassembly. I just change what I can every year. It will allow about 8oz of fresh oil exchange every year...and gives you a chance to see what has accumulated on the magnet.

The main axle hub can go three years on ours if using Mobil Delvac 1 75W-90. It beats doing it more often with non-synthetic.

I’ll say about the techs at Gaffney. They shoot straight...and won’t take your money on extraneous stuff. I was going to buy a power steering filter, and replace the fluid. They said, that’s one of those things you can let go longer...like way longer. But oil, oil filters, fuel filters, air filters/cleaners/driers, hubs, axles, chassis grease...they are very thorough on. I just had them change my 2016 over to Shell Rotella NF ELC coolant to let me go 600,000 miles without SCA’s... I changed my Genny over when I got home. Now...both can use the same coolant...and it works great. Just top up as needed with 50/50...and you can do a pH test with the 4-way test kit if concerned.

 

[VTPete]

It’s true...the oil filled hubs will only drain about half of their oil without disassembly. I just change what I can every year. It will allow about 8oz of fresh oil exchange every year...and gives you a chance to see what has accumulated on the magnet.

The main axle hub can go three years on ours if using Mobil Delvac 1 75W-90. It beats doing it more often with non-synthetic.

I’ll say about the techs at Gaffney. They shoot straight...and won’t take your money on extraneous stuff. I was going to buy a power steering filter, and replace the fluid. They said, that’s one of those things you can let go longer...like way longer. But oil, oil filters, fuel filters, air filters/cleaners/driers, hubs, axles, chassis grease...they are very thorough on. I just had them change my 2016 over to Shell Rotella NF ELC coolant to let me go 600,000 miles without SCA’s... I changed my Genny over when I got home. Now...both can use the same coolant...and it works great. Just top up as needed with 50/50...and you can do a pH test with the 4-way test kit if concerned.

Helpful info- thanks Chuggs. Especially about the partial draining without disassembly of the hubs..

 

[Chuggs]

Helpful info- thanks Chuggs. Especially about the partial draining without disassembly of the hubs..

No problem...

If you are just doing the steer axle...

I throw a stack of leveling pads under the front jacks...and barely lift the front tires so they will spin.

If doing the tag axle...I make sure I'm on level ground...chock the front wheels...and raise the rear of the coach, but not enough to lift the wheels up. Leaving the main axle wheels in contact backed up by chocks...as that is where the parking brake is. Then a hydraulic jack on the bottom of the tag air bag platform...raise just that side of the tag so the wheel can spin.

Remove the hub cap.

Have a catch basin, funnel, and paper towels handy...

Remove the rubber plug...inspect your oil level...
Remove the magnetic drain...may take a pair of channel locks if screwed on tight.
Rotate the wheel so drain port is facing down into your funnel...prop with paper towels...and give it time to drain. It is time consuming...but not labor intense.

While you wait...check the magnet.

You will find some metal dust...which is good if it's not too much. The magnet is keeping it out of the bearings.

When as much oil that will drains out...I use the quart container of Valvoline 80w-90...but feel free to go synthetic here. I just figure my hubs are only getting around 8,000-10,000 miles per year...so not very much. The pointy tip makes filling easier.

Inspect the o-ring on the plug and replace if needed...and screw the plug back in.

Start filling the hub with oil. You really have to wait...it takes time for the level to remain steady...as it is seeping thru the bearings into the hub. I slowly spin the wheel occasionally to help distribute the oil. When you get it filled and it stays filled...you can replace the rubber plug and hubcap, and lower the coach.

If it's your first time...you might pull the hub cap a day or so later just to be sure your oil level is still where you want it...as oil may have still migrated if you were a little rushed before.

That's it. I know its not perfect...but if you aren't having any hub oil leaks...I wouldn't mess a good thing up by disassembling the entire hub. That, to me, isn't warranted on such low mileage vehicles. The OTR truckers might do this...but they are probably doing over 100,000 miles in that time.

So far, each year when I dip my finger into the old oil...it's clear like honey. I think it's doing a good job.

Prop your catch pan up...for some reason oil spits out of the end of the funnel...and if it has room will go over your catch basin onto the ground. I learned to set the basin up atop a tackle box...keeps it from spraying oil all over.

1 quart does four hubs...as each seems to only take about 8 oz.