Welcome to RVForums.com

  • Register now and join the discussion
  • Friendliest RV Community on the web
  • Modern site for PC's, Phones, Tablets - no 3rd party apps required
  • Ask questions, help others, review campgrounds
  • Get the most out of the RV Lifestyle
  • Invite everyone to RVForums.com and let's have fun
  • Commercial/Vendors welcome

I didn’t expect to find this

Welcome to RVForums.com

  • Register now and join the discussion
  • Modern secure site, no 3rd party apps required
  • Invite your friends and let's have fun
  • Commercial/Vendors welcome
  • Friendliest RV community on the web

Neemer

Crayon Eater
RVF Supporter
Joined
Dec 27, 2019
Messages
1,990
Location
Virginia
RV Year
2021
RV Make
Newmar
RV Model
DSDP 4326
RV Length
43
Chassis
Freightliner
Engine
ISL 450
TOW/TOAD
2023 Winnebago ERA 70A or 2012 Ford Taurus
I was doing a little roof drain/gutter PM this afternoon and happened to sight down the top of the FWS.
IMG_1332.jpeg


Surprise!

It appears that seal is only adhered with glue and has obviously failed.

Unless someone convinces me this will cause me to rollover in a median strip, I’ll let Newmar have at it next year when I return to the mothership.

Oy
 
Can you unsee it?
 
I wonder how hard it would be to reseat the seal on the groove? Yeah, I realize you probably have to figure out how to disconnect the topper. My first instinct was/is remove it so it doesn't interfere or jam slide operation. Maybe reach out to a mobile RV tech?
 
I had to go out and look at my seals on the slides. They are all intact and very secure. I wonder if @Neemer's seal was ever bonded in place to begin with. I gave mine a bit of a tug to see what it would take to take it off and it is on there but good.
 
Thanks for the post! Gee another thing to wonder about:rolleyes:
I’m here to serve you.

I had to go out and look at my seals on the slides. They are all intact and very secure. I wonder if @Neemer's seal was ever bonded in place to begin with. I gave mine a bit of a tug to see what it would take to take it off and it is on there but good.
The guy or gal that put yours on had the day off when mine went through the line.
 
I was doing a little roof drain/gutter PM this afternoon and happened to sight down the top of the FWS.
View attachment 20263

Surprise!

It appears that seal is only adhered with glue and has obviously failed.

Unless someone convinces me this will cause me to rollover in a median strip, I’ll let Newmar have at it next year when I return to the mothership.

Oy
checking ours! ( "mothership" 😂 )
 
I was doing a little roof drain/gutter PM this afternoon and happened to sight down the top of the FWS.
View attachment 20263

Surprise!

It appears that seal is only adhered with glue and has obviously failed.

Unless someone convinces me this will cause me to rollover in a median strip, I’ll let Newmar have at it next year when I return to the mothership.

Oy
This would drive me nuts knowing it was like that I would have to repair it. Clean the rail and seal very good and use a good grade of contact cement and get er done!
 
This would drive me nuts knowing it was like that I would have to repair it. Clean the rail and seal very good and use a good grade of contact cement and get er done!
I have plenty to drive me nuts already.
 
Hi Neal! have you ever used any of the Flex Seal products? I am looking at this product for a different use and was looking for someone has experience with it.
No
 
Hi Neal! have you ever used any of the Flex Seal products? I am looking at this product for a different use and was looking for someone has experience with it.
I've actually used tape, caulk, and spray to seal a wheel well leak. I need to post, but was waiting for a real, successful test. Haven't had much rain to drive in lately.
 
Hi Neal! have you ever used any of the Flex Seal products? I am looking at this product for a different use and was looking for someone has experience with it.
Have tried some of their stuff - never worked well for me.

I’d use the Gorilla brand before the flex seal personally.
 
@Neemer I have a 22 DS. Disconnecting the slide topper is fairly easy if you have a hankering to. Here is how I managed to disconnect & reconnect the FW slide topper.
- With slide fully extended I connected channel locks to the roller mechanisim and topper material at the end of the topper. The objective is to prevent the topper from rolling up during the next step. I have a pair of channel locks with large circular jaws that will clamp around the topper roller. On the other end I used a pair of channel locks that have about a 5" duck bill jaw and clamped them onto the topper material. In the case of the duck bill chnnel locks I split a piece of hose and put it over the duck bill jaws to prevent damage to the topper material.
- Retract the slide say 6" or so to take the tension of the topper material.
- On the outside edge of the topper, attached to the slide wall is the "linked hinge" (my term). There are screws in the end of the hinge links at each end of the slide. Remove the screws from the center hinge piece, this will allow you to pull a link out of the hinge. The link is in two pieces (1/2 of the slide length) so repeat the screw and link removal on the other end. Once the link is removed the topper is now loose and you can access the entire top of the slide.
- Reassembly is basically the above steps in the opposite order.
- I did the process myself but it would be helpful to have second person with a ladder to help handle the hinge link removal and reinsertion. The link is half the length of the slide so it's a bit of a challenge to keep is supported and get it realigned to insert during reassembly.
 

Latest resources

Back
Top