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Move to Lithium

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The MS2812 is a 2800W inverter
The Xantex in Luxury is a 3000W inverter

For a single inverter you would want 250amp rating on the wire
For a dual inverter, you would need 250amp running to each inverter, but a busbar capable of 500amp
 
I wish I was further along. My challenging family life and the holidays kept me from doing much physical work…but been working hard mentally on it. I am trying not to overthink it too much, but paralysis by analysis is something I am very good with.

I am still batting around the idea of using copper bars instead of cables. There are pluses and minuses to each. Bars are neat and don’t have the issue of a loosing crimp or the work needed for sizing and making cables. But it will probably cost more if I use bars….since as if I use cables, I should be able to resuse (and resize) some of the cables from my existing setup. I have determined that a 1 inch by 1/8 bar is the equivalent to a 3/0 cable…so that should be enough if I go that route (Newmar used 3/4 x 1/8).

I have even debated which ways to stand the batteries….terminals up or facing forward?

I have also taken pictures of my battery bay to plan the insulation of the compartment and how to block out the environment. The slide mechanism (Ventana) makes it hard to enclose the ceiling of the compartment so I may just run insulation up to the coach floor along the back and sides in-between the support beams,

Have I put everyone to sleep yet? As you can see, I debate everything but I hope to have it all worked out and all parts ready for MLK weekend as I took off the Friday off and hope to knock this out in 4 days…

I will try to keep you updated….Time is currently the toughest resource.

Rich

PS - the batteries arrived late last week…as my early Christmas present.

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I vote bars. I used 1/8" aluminum bars where I could on my boat and covered any exposed bar with thick insulator. Still working great after 14 years.
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This is going to be a very informative thread!
 
Ok…so with next weekend being a long weekend, I was going to try my battery upgrade (weather permitting). One aspect I don’t know if I mentioned was that I want to remove the battery tray, insulate the compartment and have plywood walls like others have done.
My question is around the tray…are there any tricks to removing it? It looked like just bolts from below.

Thanks.
Rich
 
OK! I FINALLY got some time (over the course of two weekends) to complete my Lithium conversion. It went pretty well, but it was more time and effort than I expected. I would say the effort was comparable to my solar installation.

The rebuild of the battery compartment took some effort. As I had mention in my plans, I removed my battery tray, cleaned out the compartment and added 1 inch insulation and 1/2 plywood (which I painted white prior to installing). This was challenging, but it makes for a much more sealed and nice looking compartment. I ran the insulation up to the top of the compartment to seal it off the best I could. I added foil insulation tape to close it off at the top.

Summary of the changes/improvements I made (in no particular order):
- I re-used the 3/0 cables that Newmar had used for the batteries for the short connections between the batteries and and the runs between the banks of 4.

- In trying to best balance the charging and discharging of the batteries I used a method which breaks down the 8 batteries in 2 sets of 4 and has the negative and positive leads come off separate sides of the bank. I attached a picture of an example.

- I added busbars for both the positive and ground connections to make connections easier and more standard.

-I moved my Victron solar controller from the first storage compartment to the new battery compartment to make it easier to get to and also shut down when needed (my RV has a covered port which stops the solar).

- I added (finally) a new cutoff switch to shut down the 12v in the RV. This will help with parasitic loads when stored.

- I added a small (2x10) floor vent to the back of the compartment for ventilation in hot weather. It can be closed (like any floor vent) for winter. I also have a magnetic sheet that will go over it to help seal it when I want. I also have plans to put two computer fans on the back of this vent (12v) and set them to a thermostat to run when the temperature becomes warm.

- I purchased/installed a Victron Smart Shunt so I can see SOC via Bluetooth. I wired my Magnum shunt receiver to the Victron Smart Shunt (although I removed the actual Magnum shunt) so the Magnum will still be aware of (and calculate) the SOC.

- The new batteries are held in place on three sides by 1 1/2 aluminum L-bar. I also added 1/2 hard foam insulation between the batteries and the bar to make sure there are no ware points as we bounce down the road. I added insulation between the two banks of four to also avoid rub points, but also to add space for the cables that run to each battery. I also added a strap for each row of batteries to hold them down.

- I will be installing a Lithium BIM in the next week or so as an insurance policy. I am not really worried about losing any charge time from the alternator (due to the Li-BIM) as I have the solar to depend on. Also, the Lithium's charge pretty quickly, so you would not have to be on shore power or generator to top them off.

I think that is it... I will post something else if it comes to mind.

The finished product is below.
I am glad it is done!

Rich
Balanced Charging.png

BB project.jpg
 
I would like to add a gasket to the battery door like the other compartment doors have. Where is a good place to get that besides Newmar?
 
Thanks Neal. Although they have a good selection, not sure they ship in lower quantities. I looked at one item and it was for a roll of 125 ft….

I also need to replace the seal around my electrical connection compartment where the cord exits so I figure that’s the same stuff, yes? Have folks generally gotten that from Newmar?
 

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