Question Trailer service/warranty/DIY repair under coroplast

[fluffywhitedogs]

The backstory...I rolled the dice and bought a new trailer far from home. It's my 3rd trailer and I've never had a warranty claim, so I figured the odds were that I wouldn't, and if I did, how hard could it be to DIY or find a dealer? Ugh. All the stories are true about dealers not wanting you if you didn't buy from them, and although Couch's talks about their "service network", I've pretty much been told to buzz off and look on the Heartland site and find a local one. None of whom will take on a warranty repair Heartland has said that I can use an independent shop, and I'm still considering this, but there are some hoops to jump through.

Anyhow, my issue is that there is some short-circuit or grounding issue in the running light circuit. It blows the fuse on my Durango. I uninstalled the rear and side marker cameras that I had installed and reinstalled the old lights. It will run on my hubby's 4Runner so I plugged in for long enough to determine that the front passenger side light didn't function, but that the wires to both the front lights get *very* warm. (Which make me think the 4runner's tolerance is higher but that the issue is still on the trailer side.)

Unfortunately, I can't find the source of the issue before where the wires go under the coroplast.

I know nobody can tell me what to do, but any input would be appreciated. In your opinion, should I drive 8 hours to the dealership and have them make it right? Use an independent shop and either pay out of pocket or try to recoup it? Or take down or cut the coroplast myself and try and figure it out. (I'm a motivated DIYer, but not particularly experienced in electrical issues and have never dealt with coroplast). If the issue wasn't an obviously damaged or disconnected wire, I'd be stymied.

I know a lot of people go though issues even with new trailers and this is (hopefully) pretty small stuff compared to many of them, but I'm disappointed that my luck ran out

 

[Rich W.]

First thing I’d do is break out the multi meter and check for continuity between each contact on the trailer end plug and ground. Once you find your short (sounds like running lights - brown wire) start testing each fixture etc. It’s pretty common for manufacturers to run wire through rough holes in the frame with no protection so that’s a likely source of the problem.

 

[fluffywhitedogs]

First thing I’d do is break out the multi meter and check for continuity between each contact on the trailer end plug and ground. Once you find your short (sounds like running lights - brown wire) start testing each fixture etc. It’s pretty common for manufacturers to run wire through rough holes in the frame with no protection so that’s a likely source of the problem.

It's the front right running light wiring. I neglected to mention, along with it getting really hot, the voltage there is only 2.19v. But none of the visible wiring is damaged, it's something under the coroplast.

 

[BGMAC]

It's the front right running light wiring. I neglected to mention, along with it getting really hot, the voltage there is only 2.19v. But none of the visible wiring is damaged, it's something under the coroplast.

One thing that I have that’s been quite useful when I’m inspecting or hunting things down is a fiber optic camera. They’re pretty cheap now.
I would venture to say that the wiring may run right to the bottom of the trailer or run inside the trailer behind desks, cabinets etc. I have not seen to many run in the walls. If you can open the bottom up in the front you may see some wiring.

Robot or human?

 

[fluffywhitedogs]

One thing that I have that’s been quite useful when I’m inspecting or hunting things down is a fiber optic camera. They’re pretty cheap now.

Robot or human?

That's a great idea, I never thought of that! I wonder what the odds are of the problem being obvious enough for me to recognize...especially without laying hands on...

 

[BGMAC]

That's a great idea, I never thought of that! I wonder what the odds are of the problem being obvious enough for me to recognize...especially without laying hands on...

I’d still s check under the trailer to see if the wires come out there.

 

[fluffywhitedogs]

I’d still s check under the trailer to see if the wires come out there.

I’m not sure what you mean? Assuming I have located the offending area correctly, the wires go directly from the light, through a sheath, and then into an area that’s inaccessible. None of the visible wire has any damage and this is where the voltage tests at 2.19v

 

[fluffywhitedogs]

More pics

 

[BGMAC]

More

More pics

did you test at the splices ? The metal plate, is that facing front or back? The picture is so close I can’t get a general location?

Almost forgot. if you tested at the splices, did you disconnect them first?

 

[fluffywhitedogs]

Almost forgot. if you tested at the splices, did you disconnect them first?

I did not. I guess that means I should?
Here’s a pic from front to back. The bundle of wires goes from the light on the outside of that metal “flap” and is then bundled up and goes through a hole in the frame. There is coroplast from this I-beam to the other, so once it’s through the frame, I can’t access it.
I don’t have enough daylight left to disconnect things at the splice and test there but I will do that in the morning.
(The wires are only hanging down from me inspecting them, they we in the black sheathing before)