3D Printing and RVing

[Neal]

3D printing isn't always fun! At times it doesn't work properly, something is messed up or filament is jammed, it can be frustrating! These 3D printers are not like computer printers where they are perfected and just work and if they don't work they're broke. I spent 6 hours of my wonderful Saturday morning getting my printer to work, something out of alignment in the extruder and/or filament clogged. Had to do a pretty major disassembly and about threw the whole thing in the garbage can but I finally got it working again. It can be infuriating. My situation is more complicated because I made a bad decision to get the multi material "upgrade" (mmu2) which is horrendous. I have yet to bring myself to just remove it as there is some reverting required I don't want to deal with. Just be warned, there will be times you'll have to troubleshoot, disassemble, swear a bit, and get things working again. This is why if going the Prusa route assembling your own will be good training for repairs.

 

[BuckyII]

@Neal, sorry to hear. I had a small glitch this morning while changing filaments...was wondering how long these go before something breaks/wears out. For as much as it bounces back/forth and forward/back I'm surprised about having no issues YET. Bought an extra nozzle, but have not had to use it. Bought a new filament from Amazon that I like so far...Duramic 3D. Limited colors, am using the white which I've almost used an entire roll in a week. It prints very true and adheres well...no issues yet.

 

[Neal]

I don't think things are wearing out other than filament aging and being affected by the climate when not in the bag with the desiccant. Yes, I bought way too much filament so I will have to deal with that, if it's really an issue. My main headache is the MMU2 but I've changed the nozzle a few times and put a new one on today as I thought that may be a contributing factor. I took the nozzle and hot end apart and saw filament stuck in there so it was a matter of just manually setting the nozzle temp up to around 250 to melt it out and push a nozzle cleaning rod down the path to push it out. I have changed nozzles a few times but I'm willing to bet I could still be using the original one that came with it. I've also bought the hardened steel one and olsson ruby (total waste of money).

I think the issue is mainly filament "dust" and particles that will be the main issue. My 3D printing life was amazing prior to this MMU2. Complete regret but it's a neat concept to do multi-color.

Glad you found a good filament locally (other than Czech). Prusament has been my favorite but today it's the one that was giving me trouble. I use AmazonBasics and Hatchbox without problems too but Prusament is amazing.

Well, back to restarting this print job again (29 hour job) as my first layer cal is still not right with the nozzle change (trying the hardened steel one now).

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07B69Y5ZH/?tag=rvf01-20

Extra standard nozzles if needed:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CB7VYB2/?tag=rvf01-20

 

[Neal]

Hardened steel nozzle is out, I think brass is best but I'm actually going to try this olsson ruby nozzle one more time.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GRBQLLB/?tag=rvf01-20

 

[TJ&LadyDi]

There was a time, quite recently, when I was considering getting into 3D printing. This recent conversation has saved me from that fate! I'll just continue going out to the shop and firing up the lathe and milling machine when I need to make something. Probably not as fast, but I can pretty much create whatever I want without having to do battle with computers and technology.

TJ

 

[BuckyII]

@Neal , thanks for the nozzle info. Almost ordered some "Wood" filament...yes, actually has sawdust in it and can be finished like wood. One of the comments said it wears through normal nozzles quickly...suggested using the hardened steel. May buy the filament and nozzle to give it a try. Let me know how the Ruby one works.

Bad day for 3D printing...just got the "Crash Detected" message and had to abort a 7 hr print after 4 hours. Will cut the body in Fusion, print the top half and glue.

29 hour print WOW. I tend to break those into smaller jobs so I don't have as much to lose when/if something goes bad.

You mentioned 1st layer cal. I hate to admit, haven't done that since day one. Guess I better check it.

 

[BuckyII]

There was a time, quite recently, when I was considering getting into 3D printing. This recent conversation has saved me from that fate! I'll just continue going out to the shop and firing up the lathe and milling machine when I need to make something. Probably not as fast, but I can pretty much create whatever I want without having to do battle with computers and technology.

Are we having fun yet? Wait, Jim...that's way too intelligent!

 

[Neal]

@Neal , thanks for the nozzle info. Almost ordered some "Wood" filament...yes, actually has sawdust in it and can be finished like wood. One of the comments said it wears through normal nozzles quickly...suggested using the hardened steel. May buy the filament and nozzle to give it a try. Let me know how the Ruby one works.

Bad day for 3D printing...just got the "Crash Detected" message and had to abort a 7 hr print after 4 hours. Will cut the body in Fusion, print the top half and glue.

29 hour print WOW. I tend to break those into smaller jobs so I don't have as much to lose when/if something goes bad.

You mentioned 1st layer cal. I hate to admit, haven't done that since day one. Guess I better check it.

I don't think my issue is a nozzle issue, I must have something wrong in the hot end or the extruder. What a day!

I've printed with the wood filament and also carbon fiber which is why I got the hardened steel nozzle. Once I get this issue resolved I'd like to see how the olsson ruby does again.

As to your crash, you could resume but most likely something is messed up in the print. I had that last night a few hours into this big print job. I had to abort it as something was messed up in one of the objects being printed hence the crash.

The 29 hour print is this thing with all the parts I need for it printing at once at 100% infill. Not sure why he's calling for 100% but oh well, I have plenty of filament so why not.

Articulating Raspberry Pi Camera Mount for Prusa MK3 and MK2 by sneaks

I am someone that continually is moving my camera depending on what I am printing. I wanted a camera bracket that was maneuverable when needed, yet stayed locked when not. This articulating design has 24 indexes on each link connection point and a knurled nut so you can easily lock it. LINKS...

www.thingiverse.com

Giving up on the printer until tomorrow but I may have screwed something up or a wire has come loose on the hot end and the filament is not flowing like it should.

 

[Neal]

While changing the nozzle the block on the bottom seemed loose. I saw a video where someone was tightening the cooling fins (top cylindrical part) so I figured I might as well pull the hotend off and tighten it. Nope, this one is glued on, now it's two pieces I could order heat sink glue but I just ordered a new hotend from Amazon. I've wasted 1 1/2 days on this nonsense. And I figured out why the filament wasn't passing through, when I replaced the PTFE tube last time I troubleshot a filament loading issue it was melted on the bottom causing the filament to be blocked. So at least I discovered the issue. As I say, things will be better once fixed. Time to get back to work!

And this is why I never built an airplane and never will, I don't trust my assembly skills, seriously! I've redone enough of my electrical work. In my world I always have to do things twice. I know my weaknesses. Had I left this printer as it came from Prusa 1-1/2 years ago it would still be printing excellent today even with the original nozzle, etc. It's a great printer...start upgrading things and it's a new story. Lesson 999,845 learned.

 

[BuckyII]

Yikes...sorry to see your mess Neal! I appreciate your "assembly skills" comment. When assembling my Prusa, I discovered near the end a simple mistake made early on...had to reverse the assembly process back many steps to correct and then re-do.

This has not been a good weekend for 3D printing. After my "crash" last night, I've had nothing but headaches trying to get back up and running. Actually surprised that my hotend has not broken YET (trouble trying to replace nozzle frozen in place). Dealing with many error messages mostly regarding Z calibration and bed calibration. Thought I was close while doing 1st layer calibration, then received another bed error.

Anyone on the fence about getting into 3D printing should have no doubts now about what to do...TJ are you listening.

 

[Neal]

@BuckyII you probably know this but when replacing a nozzle you want to run your hotend temp up to 230/250'ish and only install/remove when hot (expanded). You need to carefully hold the hotend with pliers while unscrewing the nozzle. I learned yesterday if you put the pliers in the wrong place you'll make a nice spark, yep, I find those little tricks all the time! Doh!!! YouTube is your friend. I had a nice little nozzle tool which was a plastic handle with a socket on the end. Well, that heat went right down to the plastic handle and melted it so it just spun.

If everything starts working well consider adding the MMU2S to ruin your 3D printing life

 

[sheridany]

@TJ&LadyDi does this almost sound eerily like reloading? I am staying away.

 

[BuckyII]

Yes, I know NOW about heating when replacing a nozzle...after struggling and then finding a YouTube video where I learned about that and what a "cold pull" is.

I'm going to "pass" for awhile on the MMU2S feature.

 

[Neal]

m going to "pass" for awhile on the MMU2S feature.

I was kidding, I want to make sure because this thing is not recommended!!! Life was good before this creature happened.

 

[BuckyII]

I was kidding, I want to make sure because this thing is not recommended!!! Life was good before this creature happened.

I know you were...I have NO need for that!