What is the best way to tow a vehicle?

[DONMC]

I have a C class and trying to figure out the best and safest way to tow a vehicle.

Any ideas will be appreciated.

 

[John&Andrea]

We use a tow dolly behind our Class C. The car we tow is paid for and we did not want a OT expense of buying another vehicle. We have not had any issues towing. I do believe flat towing may be best and easiest and we my look at that in the future. The problem I have is backing with the car on the dolly, the pivot point on the dolly makes backing difficult. As far as safe I guess flat may be safest, no danger of the car coming off the dolly. I check the straps on the dolly each time I stop.

 

[DONMC]

We use a tow dolly behind our Class C. The car we tow is paid for and we did not want a OT expense of buying another vehicle. We have not had any issues towing. I do believe flat towing may be best and easiest and we my look at that in the future. The problem I have is backing with the car on the dolly, the pivot point on the dolly makes backing difficult. As far as safe I guess flat may be safest, no danger of the car coming off the dolly. I check the straps on the dolly each time I stop.

Thank you for your reply.

I am going back and forth with flat tow and tow dolly.

How long have you been towing with the dolly?

 

[J&JD]

You cannot backup towing four down. Maybe a few feet at best……carefully.

 

[John&Andrea]

Thank you for your reply.

I am going back and forth with flat tow and tow dolly.

How long have you been towing with the dolly?

This is our first year with the motorhome.

 

[John&Andrea]

You cannot backup towing four down. Maybe a few feet at best……carefully.

That’s about all I can do with the dolly.

 

[John&Andrea]

I guess the best thing about flat towing is when you get to your destination, you don’t have the dolly to deal with.

 

[DONMC]

This is our first year with the motorhome.

We bought ours last year and are first timers.

I want to go out West later in fall, but car rentals are hard to come by.

 

["EZ"]

We use a tow dolly behind our Class C. The car we tow is paid for and we did not want a OT expense of buying another vehicle. We have not had any issues towing. I do believe flat towing may be best and easiest and we my look at that in the future. The problem I have is backing with the car on the dolly, the pivot point on the dolly makes backing difficult. As far as safe I guess flat may be safest, no danger of the car coming off the dolly. I check the straps on the dolly each time I stop.

Just so you know you can't back up with a tow bar/ flat towing either. But we flat tow our Grand Cherokee Trailhawk and love it!

 

[Headhunter]

Really do some research. IMHO..... towing 4 down is so much better and way easier than trying to load your car on a dolly. Your front wheels are off the ground, you have to secure the vehicle once you drive it up the dolly. Now you have to find a place to store the dolly at the campground.

Towing 4 down is not cheap. You need a tow bar base for your car, good quality tow bar, and depending on the weight of your car maybe an auxiliary breaking system. I am partial to Blue Ox bases and tow bars. I used to help my buddy load his car on a dolly. No way would I go that route for me.

HH

 

[Sonic]

I have a C class and trying to figure out the best and safest way to tow a vehicle.

Any ideas will be appreciated.

What vehicle are you planning to tow, and what is the hitch rating (weight capacity) on your motorhome?

 

[Old Bubblehead]

Do you already have a car? Is that car recreational towable (check owners manual)? That would be my first check. If it is, how? That may lead you to your first answer. If not, investment will need to be made. Some will be able to afford purchasing a new car specifically to tow in a certain manner. This gives you the price of the car and then the towing system costs to consider. Others will seek out a used vehicle already set up for use as an RV toad, keep the costs down and buy a proven product.

As in most things RV, there are strong opinions in all directions. You have to determine you own threshold for pain.

We started with a Gas Class A. We already had a "spare" front wheel drive car we could dedicate to using as a tow. We went with a dolly. After a year of setting up the car on the dolly, we purchased a Chevy Colorado once verified it could be recreationally towed 4 wheels down. We then had the price of the truck, plus the near $5K in towing set up. We knew we were moving in that direction and planned for it.

When we shifted to the DP, we just kept the same set up. The new coach is factory supplied with air supply for AF1, but current system (Invisbrake) functions fine.

Looking back, I realize that sticker shock drove some early decisions in our RV journey. Gasser over DP initially, and dolly over 4 down. Experience gained on the road facilitated the shifts we made in equipment.

As the Cajun Ninja says; " you do you"

Enjoy, see ya on the road.

j

 

[Headhunter]

Do you already have a car? Is that car recreational towable (check owners manual)? That would be my first check. If it is, how? That may lead you to your first answer. If not, investment will need to be made. Some will be able to afford purchasing a new car specifically to tow in a certain manner. This gives you the price of the car and then the towing system costs to consider. Others will seek out a used vehicle already set up for use as an RV toad, keep the costs down and buy a proven product.

As in most things RV, there are strong opinions in all directions. You have to determine you own threshold for pain.

We started with a Gas Class A. We already had a "spare" front wheel drive car we could dedicate to using as a tow. We went with a dolly. After a year of setting up the car on the dolly, we purchased a Chevy Colorado once verified it could be recreationally towed 4 wheels down. We then had the price of the truck, plus the near $5K in towing set up. We knew we were moving in that direction and planned for it.

When we shifted to the DP, we just kept the same set up. The new coach is factory supplied with air supply for AF1, but current system (Invisbrake) functions fine.

Looking back, I realize that sticker shock drove some early decisions in our RV journey. Gasser over DP initially, and dolly over 4 down. Experience gained on the road facilitated the shifts we made in equipment.

As the Cajun Ninja says; " you do you"

Enjoy, see ya on the road.

j

Great comments OB:
The sticker shock on a lot of things associated with the RV life style decides decisions. I went the same route you did. There are some things that to fit YOUR RV life style are just WORTH the price of admission.

Sometimes you just have to bite the bullet and go for it. It can be the purchase of a new MH, braking system, Toad, TPMS Systems, Tow bars, and a million other things.

If you really want to listen, good people will tell you. If you don't as they say YOU will learn the hard way.

Regards

HH

 

[philipswanson]

Forget it! Just rent a car from Enterprise when you get there. Not worth the extra fuel and lack of performance as you drive. Just not worth all the hassle.

 

[Headhunter]

Forget it! Just rent a car from Enterprise when you get there. Not worth the extra fuel and lack of performance as you drive. Just not worth all the hassle.

Good Luck trying to rent a car these days. Never mind having to travel to the rental station, returning the car to the rental station. Talk about a PIA. Better to bring it with you.

HH

 

[philipswanson]

Enterprise brings the car right to your camping spot. All ready have one reserved for a trip to Vegas in September. Even get an ex-military discount.

 

[Fish]

Enterprise brings the car right to your camping spot. All ready have one reserved for a trip to Vegas in September. Even get an ex-military discount.

I'd hate to guess the rental charge for the 6 months I spend in florida.

 

[philipswanson]

For 6 months, I would drive it down or buy another car.

 

[jsuprock]

I have a C class and trying to figure out the best and safest way to tow a vehicle.

Any ideas will be appreciated.

Flat tow, or Trailer tow?
Again, A lot of people will say "what are you crazy"? Having done both, and also having pulled double trailers up to 85 feet in length I say
NO, DO NOT FLAT TOW!!!
WHY???
1. You can not back up Flat towing.
This is always a problem due to
A wrong turn
Setting up at the campsite
Maneuvering at the gas station
Didn't quite make a tight corner
Accidently on a dead end road and unable to make a sweeping U turn
And the list goes on
2. Fuel mileage is better towing a good trailer ( like maybe over 1 MPG better, and at 5 to 10 MPG * 1 MPG equals 10 % to 20% lower fuel cost)
3. You can carry extra stuff on the trailer
Bikes
Kayak
Other toys
Your mother in law
4. To those who say "well yah, but what do you do with the trailer when you get to your destination?"
1 This is rarely an issue, just park it (hooked up or unhooked beside the motorhome) on your camping site
2 Have to park it somewhere else, Park it there using the motorhome or, that Ranger, you have a hitch on it? use the Ranger to park it away from your campsite. (I have found that during the course of my average 7 month summer trip I might need to do this once or twice)

Side note on Trailering you car vs flat towing.

Flat tow set up
Tow bar and tow car parts and pieces $1,000 to $1500
Tow car Brake system $800 to $1800
Installation and electrical set up $$200 to $1,000
Total cost of flat tow system ? $2,000 to $4,300

Cost of flat bed tow trailer? $1,800 to $3,000

Value of flat tow system used? Zero to $500 on resale,
Value of flat bed tow trailer May actually go up in value!!!!

So as you can see, towing car, truck, other stuff on trailer can be much more cost effective.

Johnnie

 

[philipswanson]

Flat tow, or Trailer tow?
Again, A lot of people will say "what are you crazy"? Having done both, and also having pulled double trailers up to 85 feet in length I say
NO, DO NOT FLAT TOW!!!
WHY???
1. You can not back up Flat towing.
This is always a problem due to
A wrong turn
Setting up at the campsite
Maneuvering at the gas station
Didn't quite make a tight corner
Accidently on a dead end road and unable to make a sweeping U turn
And the list goes on
2. Fuel mileage is better towing a good trailer ( like maybe over 1 MPG better, and at 5 to 10 MPG * 1 MPG equals 10 % to 20% lower fuel cost)
3. You can carry extra stuff on the trailer
Bikes
Kayak
Other toys
Your mother in law
4. To those who say "well yah, but what do you do with the trailer when you get to your destination?"
1 This is rarely an issue, just park it (hooked up or unhooked beside the motorhome) on your camping site
2 Have to park it somewhere else, Park it there using the motorhome or, that Ranger, you have a hitch on it? use the Ranger to park it away from your campsite. (I have found that during the course of my average 7 month summer trip I might need to do this once or twice)

Side note on Trailering you car vs flat towing.

Flat tow set up
Tow bar and tow car parts and pieces $1,000 to $1500
Tow car Brake system $800 to $1800
Installation and electrical set up $$200 to $1,000
Total cost of flat tow system ? $2,000 to $4,300

Cost of flat bed tow trailer? $1,800 to $3,000

Value of flat tow system used? Zero to $500 on resale,
Value of flat bed tow trailer May actually go up in value!!!!

So as you can see, towing car, truck, other stuff on trailer can be much more cost effective.

Johnnie

Best to not tow at all. Get a motorcycle or rent a car from Enterprise. Just not worth the expense and hassle. I sold my toad and never looked back. Enterprise even delivers my car to the campsite.