Welcome to RVForums.com

  • Register now and join the discussion
  • Friendliest RV Community on the web
  • Modern site for PC's, Phones, Tablets - no 3rd party apps required
  • Ask questions, help others, review campgrounds
  • Get the most out of the RV Lifestyle
  • Invite everyone to RVForums.com and let's have fun
  • Commercial/Vendors welcome

Question Best Water disconnect

Welcome to RVForums.com

  • Register now and join the discussion
  • Modern secure site, no 3rd party apps required
  • Invite your friends and let's have fun
  • Commercial/Vendors welcome
  • Friendliest RV community on the web
I was kidding I'm sure you know @DKRITTER but it is interesting. I don't feel comfortably leaving anything connected to the black tank rinse that has a path to my fresh water system. I'm trying quick connects like others, doesn't mean I will stay with them either but for now they are working well for me.


I completely agree, I put a water hose ball valve on the hose that goes to my black tank rinse so there isn't a possibility.

Plus we don't consume water from our RV we use bottled water for all consumption. While not a fool proof solution it's pretty close.
 
I really love my all brass ones. They have a large rubber collar, which would never clear that quicklink. Seeing Joe, I'm glad I didn't drop $60 on them!!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07T16K4NP/?tag=rvf01-20

I bought 10 of them for $90, but those greedy seller musta caught wind, cuz now it'll set you back $120 for 10.

But...funny enough...the thing I'd really love to have, are some of those CAPS! I've been looking all over for them.
 
One potential issue I have discovered is that ALL of the quick disconnects I can find (including the Parkers from the RV Water Filter Store) are made from standard brass that has some lead in it. If you read the fine print, none are certified for use with drinking water.

If I could find some "low-lead" or "lead-free" brass quick couplers that ARE certified for drinking water use, I would go with them. With the small surface area that comes in contact with my drinking water, I'm not too concerned, however.

TJ
 
I saved up my allowance and took the money out of savings and finally bought one of these 90 degree kwik link 90 degree quick connectors for my black tank rinse. Well, seems that nearly $30 of hard earned money is wasted. I went to install it today and the twist knob contraption Newmar uses on the black tank rinse is in the way of the quick connector from the hose connection. Looks like this is not going to work.


90degconnector.png
 
I saved up my allowance and took the money out of savings and finally bought one of these 90 degree kwik link 90 degree quick connectors for my black tank rinse. Well, seems that nearly $30 of hard earned money is wasted. I went to install it today and the twist knob contraption Newmar uses on the black tank rinse is in the way of the quick connector from the hose connection. Looks like this is not going to work.


View attachment 2575
Must be a Ventana thing; it works great on the MADP. ;)

TJ
 
I saved up my allowance and took the money out of savings and finally bought one of these 90 degree kwik link 90 degree quick connectors for my black tank rinse. Well, seems that nearly $30 of hard earned money is wasted. I went to install it today and the twist knob contraption Newmar uses on the black tank rinse is in the way of the quick connector from the hose connection. Looks like this is not going to work.


View attachment 2575
Before you return it.,Did you watch my video that is posted earlier in this Post? If you have the same fittings as the ones in my Newmar, you have to position the fittings very carefully.
 
Here's the photo...

A9066FC6-1CFE-4E55-8F85-C00B4F6579FF.jpeg
Plus one of my tank flush hose connected to it.

9244E2E9-203E-44ED-9C64-6ECA616CA763.jpeg


TJ
 
Last edited:
Hmmm, I'll have to take a second look tomorrow. Looks the same. Can't tell if the bottom of your kwik disconnect is angled out, mine goes straight down.
 
Mine is the now-discontinued (apparently) 105-degree version; angled out.

TJ

And there lies the issue. I'll have to contact them.
 
Looks like you just need to adjust the plastic so the finger groove is straight down and, allows the clearance to allow the operation of the hose coupling.
 
I'll retry tomorrow, thx
 
Got it working, thanks all. I'm one of you now ?
 
The ones from Lowe's have proven to be no bueno for caca. I haven't tried the Gorilla version yet, but they look like they may hold some promise. In myy experience, the QDs from the RV Water Filter Store are absolutely bullet proof.
 
I’ve not had a single issue with the ones from Lowes. Though, I am not installing them on my rinse valve. I can see how that could be problematic.
 
I've never had a problem with the ones I was using, I just wanted the 90 deg fancy one for the sewer rinse.
 
Regardless if long term or short term, I always clean the faucet connection off with anti bacterial soap for 30 seconds or longer. If Parking for a while, and then place a Y connector, with at least two outlets on it. If really going to be there a while, I will put on a 4 outlet Y adapter, this is especially true if out on the west side of country, because of very low humidity, winds, and FIRE. I will put a second water hose out, with nozzle for the off chance of fire.

I then if needed place a 45 connector, since my water pressure regulator wants to be mostly level (see link here- Amazon.com: Renator M11-0660R Water Pressure Regulator Valve. Brass Lead-Free Adjustable Water Pressure Reducer with Gauge for RV Camper, and Inlet Screened Filter: Home Improvement ) - Then fresh water hose to coach.

Now we don't leave water on at connection all the time, we keep the tank full per auto fil, and use it at night for sure. I will hear water pump if it runs, so then I would know if I had a leak. If we are washing clothes, or doing a lot of water use, we will use shore water, and if within a day of leaving, fill up the tank after we do all our washing, etc., and live off tank so the FW stuff is put away. That way I am not rushed to remember this or that.

I use a separate back flow preventer, pressure regulator and hose for flushing out the black tank, and NEVER hook my fresh water system to the black tank flush system, even though there is a built in back flow preventer, they can fail. One of the biggest things to make you sick is to get contaminated water, trust me, you will take many precautions if you are ever sick from that. I also sanitize the fresh water system at least every 120 days if coach use is sporadic, and at 180 days regardless if we are in continuous use or not. Varied methods to do it, someone will tell you if you ask.
 

Latest resources

Back
Top