Question Best way to determine if aired up

[Joe Hogan]

We are trying to optimize departure time. The time necessary to idle prior to departure is dictated by the suspension in my DutchStar. Unless the air tanks are up to generally ride pressure the front suspension is not fully aired up. Leaving too early is a problem.

Thoughts on how to determine suspension is ready to go ?

 

[Neal]

Air tank pressure readings, the only way you could tell.

 

[redbaron]

Since you have to start the coach to get it to ride height before bringing slides in, I usally start the coach, then go outside and disconnect the power, water, etc. This takes about 5 minutes and during that time I will hear the pop-off of the air tanks showing that they are fully pressurized. I can then go inside and bring slides in, do a finally safety check outside and depart.

I do this whenever I depart. It's necessary and a part of the camping life. Those neighbors in travel trailers won't understand, so I forgive their ignorance on the matter ahead of time.

 

[Texas Clodhopper]

I made a decision some time ago to be patient and not be in a hurry to leave.

 

[Rich W.]

I just wait until the compressor shuts off. I wouldn’t drive off until the air tanks are full, the air dryer purges, and the compressor shuts off. It’s more about sufficient air for the brakes than the suspension but by the time the compressor hits cut out, the suspension is at ride height.

 

[BGMAC]

Questions…
I don’t have an air ride so just asking.
1. Does your tank bleed off while sitting?
2. Do you deplete your air bags when setting up/leveling?

I can only relate to my shops air compressor, but I would think you could increase tank volume (another tank), add shutoff valve at the tank. While stopped close the valve and retain air pressure. When ready to go, open valve, air up and go.

I’m probably missing something.

 

[Rich W.]

Questions…
I don’t have an air ride so just asking.
1. Does your tank bleed off while sitting?
2. Do you deplete your air bags when setting up/leveling?

I can only relate to my shops air compressor, but I would think you could increase tank volume (another tank), add shutoff valve at the tank. While stopped close the valve and retain air pressure. When ready to go, open valve, air up and go.

I’m probably missing something.

The first thing you do went leveling is dump the air bags (usually automatic) so the jacks don’t have to lift any more than necessary. So every time you start up to hit the road, you have to let the bags refill to return to ride height.

Regarding leaks, most vehicles with air brakes do drain down on their own and there are allowable limits for this, but if the system is in good shape, leak down is minimal. That said, it takes quite a bit of air to refill the bags and you don’t want to leave without full tanks, but filling them takes less than five minutes.

As for adding to or modifying the system, it’s pretty much hands off except for repairs and professional mods like HWH active air. I would never recommend anyone tinkering with their air brake system unless they had a lot of mechanical experience with air brakes - too much at stake and the design is DOT mandated and all that.

There are three tanks on standard brake systems and sufficient CFM from the compressor, so it’s more a matter of understanding the system and its limitations. There’s also not a lot of room left under the rig after build out so an additional tank would probably have to go in a compartment somewhere. It’s an interesting thought though and would definitely have its uses. Hmmmm…..

Thinking about it I can see exactly where another tank could be located, how it would safely connect to the system, what valving would be necessary, and yes depending on tank size, it could allow very quick air bag filling, as well as having accessory uses. But I’m never in that much of a hurry to bug out and I like a little warm-up time anyway.

I have to put my slides in before starting up or else shut down to put them in which I’m disinclined to do (they are locked out when the key is on), so for me it’s slides in while still level, stow the jacks, then start and air up while warming up a bit, during which time I perform the various idiot checks. Then off I go - expeditions enough.

 

[BGMAC]

Thanks for the info.

 

[Jim]

I concur with all of the above. In addition, I have to press the "Travel" button, and the rig will raise to the proper drive height. If I put the rig into Drive before fully raised, the "back up" alarm will sound (beep, beep, beep), and will not cease until rig is at ride height.

 

[MemoriesByTheMile]

The indication that you should be at full height is that your air gauges show you have full pressure and you have heard the hiss from the air system after hitting full pressure.

On our coach, as part of our start of day process, we ALWAYS run through the standard 7 step air brake test procedure (part of the Commercial Drivers License test with air brake endorsement- I believe every RV’r with an air brake equipped heavy vehicle should know and follow this). As part of this process the air system will come to full pressure, as a result I know the air bags are fully aired up and we also have a gauge where I can see the pressure in the rear air bags is in the normal range.
And, like @Jim, we have a button (actually a switch) that we have to flip and if we don’t an alarm is screaming (similar to the annoying low air pressure alarm)