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[Neal]

Thanks @Chuggs but the main question I believe is how can a short on the path in to the ATS affect the 12V system? It sounds like @Neemer had a short from the pedestal in we’ll say and now has 12V anomalies.

 

[Chuggs]

I do think that a surge in the AC side of the house could cause a surge on the dc side thru the charge circuitry. This would be a non-event for most dc related resources. However, microprocessor controlled items are very susceptible to these surges. Even dc circuits with relay coils…when power gets interrupted, the coil field collapses and sends a spike voltage down the line. It’s a good procedure to have diodes in the circuit to short out the collapsing field spike…but not always included. Again, normally doesn’t hurt anything…but it can scramble the microprocessors wired to the same source. Finding these circuits…and completely turning them off…waiting five minutes or so to let capacitors discharge…coil fields collapse…. Then, hopefully, when the circuit is reenergized..,the microprocessor will initiate its process anew from step one…and populate memory fields with useable information. This should work, most of the time. If not…I think that particular control device will have to be replaced.

 

[Neal]

Thanks @Chuggs - as I mentioned I think a complete 12V removal would be what I would do. But it seems in coaches typically out of Newmar the only way to do this is disconnect the inverter from the battery?

 

[Chuggs]

I’m used to the ME-RC or ME-ARC controls. If the inverter charger control allows you to turn the charger OFF…the engine isn’t running (no alternator supply) …then removing the house catastrophic fuse will likely cut out the entire DC system. Minimize the load when doing this to prevent a lot of arcing. Only the chassis components will remain powered. With the version of MS2812 Inverter I have…if you were in “pass thru mode”… unless AC power is interrupted…the Inverter circuits will remain powered, even if you pull all of the house batteries out of the coach. But it takes both AC and DC power availability to establish Pass thru mode.

I’m interested in the inventory he comes up with of the affected circuits. Will be interesting to see if the grouping leads to an answer…fuse, connection, or microprocessor controller.

 

[Neemer]

Thanks for the info, @Chuggs. I also appreciate @Neal keeping this topic alive.

I inventoried everything that’s not working this morning. The list is long and distinguished, and with one exception, it is all tied to the panels that control everything in the house.

Doesn’t work:
Overhead lights of any kind.
Accent lights.
Basically any light of any kind.
Wall sconce.
Water pump.
Floor heat.
KIB control panel over driver’s seat.
HVAC
Fantastic vents

I think the two switches that control the security lights are toast and that’s why those lights stay illuminated. There is no feel to those switches at all. No click, no nothing.

The KIB control screen in the cabinet over the driver’s head and all wall switches illuminate, but are dead otherwise.

The watchdog autopsy revealed a toasted resistor.

 

[Neal]

Do you have a fuse panel of any type in your rear closet like @ARD had when her lights went wonky?

 

[Neemer]

I have similar in 1/2 bath.

 

[Neal]

In your second picture I see two large white molex connectors. If it were me I’d try disconnecting and reconnecting those.

Edit: and pull the fuse on KiB to power cycle it. The objective, IMHO, is getting the KiB components power cycled/rebooted.

 

[Neemer]

Found a problem. Don’t know if replacing it will cure everything, but it’s a good start.

 

[Chuggs]

Found a problem. Don’t know if replacing it will cure everything, but it’s a good start.

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Good detective work!