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Oasis electric heat function in op this time

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I’m almost 100% sure your problem is a bad summer loop pump. Go ahead and turn on the bypass switch and see if you have hot water. All it is doing is turning on the other two zone pumps so that hot boiler fluid is circulating through the distribution module. After finishing your shower, or whatever else you need the hot water for, turn off the bypass switch. There is no problem leaving it on for 30-40 minutes or so.
The reason the light comes on and then goes off when you turn on the AC 1 or 11 is because the boiler fluid is already hot and doesn’t need any more power as the summer loop is not turning on and causing water to heat.
I repeat, turning on the bypass switch for a period of time will not harm anything. Just don’t leave it on constantly.
 
I had the same issue. Turns out it was very poor electrical connections made during installation. They used spade connections on high amperage circuit.
 

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I had the same issue. Turns out it was very poor electrical connections made during installation. They used spade connections on high amperage circuit.
This is what I feel the problem is…. As the OP would not have any hot water if the summer loop pump was bad. Even on diesel.
 
This morning I noticed that we had no hot water with the AC II switch selected...... I checked the obvious things first, the breakers, fault lights and then the aqua stat over temp breakers and there were no faults. I have a green light on remote panel then it goes out. I have 115-120 V at the junction box by the heater. The diesel heat still works so we do have water but have no fault lights either on the remote switch panel or the fault panel in the heater bay. I only have a power light on the remote fault panel and no AC heat light when it is selected. I have gone thru the trouble shooting manual and so far have not been able to find a definitive fault. Anyone else had this issue?
The summer loop is the circulating pump for your AC water heater
 
I had the same issue. Turns out it was very poor electrical connections made during installation. They used spade connections on high amperage circuit.
Thanks, I will check the spade terminals on the aqua stats this morning. Yesterday I inspected the wiring and found no evidence of over heating but did not remove any of the terminals. I will turn off the burner and run all of the hot water out and see if the electric elements work or not. I sounds like we are all in agreement that if the summer pump was out, the diesel side would also not heat the water. IE summer pump works the entire system, not just the electric.
 
I tested my AC side of water heater today and it seems to work just fine. I could have sworn that it was not making hot water last weekend when I posted the suspected failure. I hope this is not an intermittent issue. Since the coach will be out of commission for a few weeks while I sort out the HWH Full wall slide issue, I will exercise the heater regularly to see if it works or fails.
 
I've had intermittent pumps as well and then it's kaput. This is your chance to get spare pumps. I keep two in my spares.
 
Now that we are going on two years old, I am starting in earnest to build up a spares kit. One thing I love about the forum is that one can scan the threads and get a pretty good idea of the systems most likely to fail and leave one stranded. A couple of summer pumps is on the list as well as a spare ignitor set for the Oasis.
 
Rather than just a spare ignitor, I suggest one of the service kits. I keep the 5 year service kit under my bed in the spares bin. I used to the services annually up until 5 years then backed off as I think it may have been a waste and instead keep the kit on hand. But it's probably time to do it.
 

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