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Oasis 'Winter Loop' Amperage?

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JJT-NC

RVF Regular
Joined
Aug 3, 2021
Messages
30
Location
North Carolina
RV Year
2022
RV Make
Newmar
RV Model
Dutch Star
RV Length
40
TOW/TOAD
2020 JLUR Diesel
I am quite happy to have moved to a new storage location closer to my stationary home, and it's fully enclosed with a concrete pad and electricity!

It's almost time to winterize here in the Piedmont of North Carolina, so I am trying to understand how much this 20A power connection will help keep the coach from freezing this winter. I've read the seminal article "oasis for newbies" (dummy in my case), and many other posts on this topic, and I wanted to confirm what I think I did and did not learn:

First, it seems AC1 consumes around 12.5A, while AC2 is twice that: 25A. Second, the winter loop is activated by the thermostat selection of 'furnace' mode, with blowers running when ambient temperature is less than the thermostat setting. (of course, the Oasis system must be 'on'). Also, the wet bay heater will be activated once the compartment falls to 40 degrees. Finally, I believe the minimum temperature setting on my unit is 50 degrees.

I think the 'winter loop' will be heated even if AC1 and AC2 are turned off at the switch, but it's unclear to me which one is running? I assume it's AC2, so I am pretty much out of luck counting on the furnace to help keep the coach from freezing temps; I would be pulling 25A from a 20A circuit.

So has anyone measured or found any amperage spec for the winter loop? Many posts refer to a minimum need of 30A but I wanted to confirm with the group.

THANKS!

fyi - since I plan to drain the water and blow out the lines anyway, what's the big deal with pink stuff? It's because I don't have a good record of flushing out all that pink stuff and it doesn't taste very good in the ice cubes! hahaha
 
Your rear zone must be set to furnace for the wet bay heat to operate. AC1/2 or burner must be on for furnace to operate. Your battery charger will be on so AC1 is all you can use. I would fully winterize the RV then run a couple of small electric heaters.
 
@JJT-NC Here is my take on the big deal with the pink stuff. When used appropriately to winterize the pink stuff displaces any water in the system. Blowing out the pluming does remove "most" of the water but you may/probably will still have some residual water in low points throughout the system and at least in my case the toilets also have some residual water in the macarator pump area. If any of the low points also happen to be an elbow or connection of some type there is a chance it could brake if ice forms in that area. Also the drain traps need to be protected so some pink stuff down the drains solves that and provides some antifreeze in the black & gray tanks to help protect the waste tank drain plumbing and valves. For what it's worth I provided some detail on the winterization process I use here.

As Sealyn stated, assuming you will have your battery charger running (by the way, at least in my DutchStar the allowed current draw of the charger can be limited to for example 5 amps which works fine for storage scenarios) So if you limit the charger and run AC1 on the Oasis you will be at 17.5 amps which leaves a little margin. I also have power at my storage facility but I have no way to monitor it remotely so I don't rely on being able to keep the coach or wet bay above freezing.
 
Thanks @Sealyn for clarifying 'system on' means AC1,AC2 or burner. There is also an 'on' button on the unit which confused me. haha.

@Just George I lie the list, thanks! And I need lists so I can check em off and be sure I am done when I think I am! ;-)
 

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