How To Replace a summer loop pump in a ITR OASIS Hydronic heater

[Neal]

O man of exactness, according to your prior post you are perpetuating stupidity. Now, even after chastising you for not following your on rule, it sounds more like a sticking check valve. Is it doing the same thing it was doing before you replaced the "hot water loop" pump?

The prior pump failed with a red light and blown fuse. This one is showing no indications of failure and I'm also not hearing the "hummm/buzzzz" it usually likes to make. Yes, I'm wondering if a "tap tap tap" needs to occur on the check valve and that is the likely next step. But if it's been working for 2-3 weeks I can't think that a check valve would be an issue. I could be wrong, usually am, but I'd think that would be more of a case of non use. We shall see, for now minimizing making things work and performing unnecessary labor as my labor tank is on empty!

 

[Texas Clodhopper]

Was the pump you replaced from ITR or Solar? I've been running a Solar pump for almost 2 trouble-free years.

 

[Neal]

Two from ITR which are the newer style, my guess they got from US Solar.

 

[Texas Clodhopper]

That would be interesting if they actually did get them from Solar.

 

[Rich W.]

I think the issue going on with my system of late is probably a bad summer loop pump that I replaced two weeks ago. Not touching anything for now but continuing to figure out what's going on with my intermittent hot water. I have another spare I may try if this keeps up. I put in a call to ITR yesterday 3:30 PM their time and have yet to hear back from my voicemail requesting help troubleshooting.

In my experience bad pumps blow fuses. So if your’s isn't doing that it’s probably not the pump

 

[J&JD]

In my experience bad pumps blow fuses. So if your’s isn't doing that it’s probably not the pump

Not always. When mine went bad it just simply stopped pumping and no fuses were blown. I guess these pumps go bad for a variety of reasons, sadly.

 

[Neal]

While I complained of "hearing" this pump in the past and with the new one, I guess it's a good audible knowing it's working. For now I'm leaving it alone and not digging in to cause more problems than I have. I initially thought I had an electrical short again but heat is working fine, burner is coming on when I thought it wasn't working (because it didn't need to from electric elements) and electric elements are working and showing proper amp draws so both sides are working. It may be time to rap-a-tap-tap on the check valve but we'll see how it goes for a few days first as it was working fine a good 1-2 weeks post install of the new pump.

 

[Joe Hogan]

so NOT looking forward to messing with this OASIS unit on the DSDP...

 

[Neal]

It has been my biggest headache in this coach. You may have the newer one that I learned of at the Hoots seminar. Curious to see what they install in yours.

 

[Rich W.]

so NOT looking forward to messing with this OASIS unit on the DSDP...

Your coach will come with the Chinook system which is a different design. Hopefully it also uses better components.

 

[Texas Clodhopper]

Not always. When mine went bad it just simply stopped pumping and no fuses were blown. I guess these pumps go bad for a variety of reasons, sadly.

I've replaced the "hot water loop pump" twice and it never had a blown fuse either.

 

[Rich W.]

I've replaced the "hot water loop pump" twice and it never had a blown fuse either.

well so much for that theory

 

[Texas Clodhopper]

What about this theory? Maybe the pump really doesn't go out unless a fuse has blown and during the replacement we bump, move, etc the check valve enough to make it start working again. We may be replacing pumps that are actually still good. Wouldn't that be a kick in the head?

 

[Rich W.]

What about this theory? Maybe the pump really doesn't go out unless a fuse has blown and during the replacement we bump, move, etc the check valve enough to make it start working again. We may be replacing pumps that are actually still good. Wouldn't that be a kick in the head?

is there an “unlike” button? A kick in the head indeed. Guess it would be good to rap on the check valves first.

 

[jaydee325]

I have a personal rule.
Any time I have a problem, I always go back to the last thing I touched or fixed. Saved me a few times. We all have those opps moments.

 

[Neal]

What about this theory? Maybe the pump really doesn't go out unless a fuse has blown and during the replacement we bump, move, etc the check valve enough to make it start working again. We may be replacing pumps that are actually still good. Wouldn't that be a kick in the head?

Tested that theory, blew a new fuse.

 

[DavidL]

Handy tools for such projects
Amazon product ASIN B0002NYB78
Haven't read all of these posts, but hypothesis is that the pump runs lots of hours. I assume the motors aren't brushless...so the brushes are a wear item. When they wear out, they get progressively worse conductivity to the armature. Which then causes more amperage draw ultimately burning out the fuse.
Does that map to the symptoms?

Edit "

• Highly efficient ECM three-phase brushless DC motor"

Ok, scratch that....

 

[jaydee325]

Handy tools for such projects
Amazon product ASIN B0002NYB78
Haven't read all of these posts, but hypothesis is that the pump runs lots of hours. I assume the motors aren't brushless...so the brushes are a wear item. When they wear out, they get progressively worse conductivity to the armature. Which then causes more amperage draw ultimately burning out the fuse.
Does that map to the symptoms?

Edit "

• Highly efficient ECM three-phase brushless DC motor"

Ok, scratch that....

Another tool I need to add to the tool box!!

Have always used needle nose vice grips but these clamps are much nicer with the radiused edges which will put much less localized stress on the hose that could cause a weak spot prone to failing.

Thanks

 

[DavidL]

Another tool I need to add to the tool box!!

Have always used needle nose vice grips but these clamps are much nicer with the radiused edges which will put much less localized stress on the hose that could cause a weak spot prone to failing.

Thanks

I see Neal uses locking long nose plier type. Probably faster to use. I use these hose pinchers for winterzing jet skis, fuel projects, etc.

 

[Neal]

Annnnnnnnnd here we go again. I go to give Elli her 7:30 treat at 7:00 with the half hour time change incrementalization therapy and out of the corner of my eye something tells me, well, I looked left and this!

​

Haven't we had enough fun today? And of course just when I want to go figure out what's going on someone has to go out. After getting her back I grab my flashlight, needle nose (aka leatherman), and fuse set. It's the summer loop!!! And yeah, no hot water. I pulled the bottom fuse, which I think is summer loop, not blown. I pull the one above it, not blown. I did "think" the summer loop fuse was not seated very well but anyways I swapped those two fuses and voila, no zone fault. All zones on (furnace zone 1, zone 2) and hot water works again. I may have cheated pump death this time. And I'm guessing Newmar parts may have spare pumps if needed even though I have one left, somewhere!

At least I'm at a place where I'm sure I could do a trade-in on the spot!