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MOD Silverleaf Charge Bridge Limitation / Workaround

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as soon as I get eyes on the 2024 DSDP I’ll post here. The DSDP was ordered with 900+ amps of Lithionics batteries and two inverters ( hopefully Victron).
Have had issues with the chassis battery charging on the previous Solar, Lithium installation combination in the CanyonStar, I’m keen to sort this early. The house battery charging by the Alternator was limited to 100 amps with the installed charge controller.
 
as soon as I get eyes on the 2024 DSDP I’ll post here. The DSDP was ordered with 900+ amps of Lithionics batteries and two inverters.
Have had issues with the chassis battery charging on the previous Solar, Lithium installation combination in the CanyonStar, I’m keen to sort this early. The house battery charging by the Alternator was limited to 100 amps with the installed charge controller.
It will be interesting to see how your coach is wired. Safe to say it is probably best to charge the house lithium batteries with the generator or shore power (parituclarly when the lithium batteries are deeply discharged) until all this is understood better.
 
What I think is needed is to eliminate that solenoid in SilverLeaf coaches in favor of a manual "Start Bridge Switch". Then add two Victron DC to DC converters. Once converter would go from the house battery to the chassis battery with a AGM charging algorithm. The second DC to DC converter would go from the chassis battery/alternator to the house batteries with either an AGM or lithium charging algorithm (depending on what battery set is in the coach).

This set up would cover all the bases.

You could leave the existing solenoid in place but remove the SilverLeaf interface then use the "Battery Boost" for the rare situation where you need to start without house battery power. Given the issues with that solenoid I would much rather see it gone with a manual start switch, since it will be very rare it is ever needed.
I found that the Silverleaf logic of activating the charge bridge for 1 hour when the voltage got down to 12.5V was insufficient. 1 hours isn't nearly enough time to charge the chassis battery to a fully charged state, especially give the parasitic draw that's draining the chassis batteries.

I ended up installing a smart switch so that I can manually activate the charge bridge. This can also be accomplished by replacing the momentary "Battery Boost" switch to an on/off switch. I leave my (smart) switch on all the time so the chassis battery (AGM) is constantly being charged (at ~13.3V) when plugged in, just like the house battery.
 
The 2024 DSDP has a chassis battery charge bridge issue. The Bridge only activates when the chassis battery is around 12.0V. The chassis battery will charge with the engine running but will not maintain charge otherwise.

Once the chassis batteries discharge to 11.9V the Bridge will sporadically engage to maintain 11.9 to 12.1V. The Li house batteries are fully charged at 14V.
How do I get the Bridge solenoid to close and charge chassis batteries?
 
@Ddmo any info on your charge bridge situation you mentioned at Oshkosh? Related to above?
 
Here is what Connect screen looks like this morning. the Bridged Symbol in Blue flashes occasionally. On Shore Power all night

IMG_1101.jpeg
 
According to the battery schematic the Bi Directional Relay wire is supposed to be connected to positive. Battery connections look as if these are all to ground side of battery??

IMG_1102.jpeg

IMG_1104.jpeg
 
Started engine and chassis battery immediately went to 13.8+v. Engine did turn somewhat slower than a healthy battery might but started right up.

IMG_1112.jpeg
 
Ok this makes some sense.

engine off, voltage on chassis battery went to 12.11v. Alternator is charging when engine runs.
 
In my situation, the Battery Isolation Manager remained closed under all conditions. So the chassis batteries were being tapped when using house systems. Newmar tested my BIM and found it was defective. They replaced it under warranty and has been working well ever since. They did say they have seen more failures than normal recently.
 
Spoke with Mary at DutchStar service. Looking for a Mobile RV service in the Melbourne FL area that is familiar with RV electrical systems.
 
What is the best way to determine what is installed in the RV short of disassembly.
The BIM is on the backside of the Power compartment behind a panel. To get at the BIM you have to climb in from the Doorside baggage bay, similar to when to swap out an Oasis pump.
Not something I would like to do just to get a part number.
 
Checked Newgle/Newgle Parts, the part indicated is a standard BIM 225 for the DutchStar.

Not sure why Newmar would install a BIM designed for lead acid to lead acid chemistry Bridging? (Maybe this is the problem??)
If the Standard Isolator is what is installed, I have the proper isolator on the way over night, Li-BIM 225 by Precision.

My worry is the Isolator installed is some other undocumented Isolator design from a London, King line of Silverleaf.

I have an email to Mary at Newmar requesting the Build Sheet specifying what was installed on the Line.

Gotta love RV ownership...
 
Checked Newgle/Newgle Parts, the part indicated is a standard BIM 225 for the DutchStar.

Not sure why Newmar would install a BIM designed for lead acid to lead acid chemistry Bridging? (Maybe this is the problem??)
If the Standard Isolator is what is installed, I have the proper isolator on the way over night, Li-BIM 225 by Precision.

My worry is the Isolator installed is some other undocumented Isolator design from a London, King line of Silverleaf.

I have an email to Mary at Newmar requesting the Build Sheet specifying what was installed on the Line.

Gotta love RV ownership...
Didn't you just pick that dinosaur up???🤔🤔🤔
 
Checked Newgle/Newgle Parts, the part indicated is a standard BIM 225 for the DutchStar.

Not sure why Newmar would install a BIM designed for lead acid to lead acid chemistry Bridging? (Maybe this is the problem??)
If the Standard Isolator is what is installed, I have the proper isolator on the way over night, Li-BIM 225 by Precision.

My worry is the Isolator installed is some other undocumented Isolator design from a London, King line of Silverleaf.

I have an email to Mary at Newmar requesting the Build Sheet specifying what was installed on the Line.

Gotta love RV ownership...
You're under bumper to bumper warranty, they should send you the part you need. I'm surprised the Li-BIM was overlooked with your setup. Then again Newmar's experience with tech...not surprised.
 
Spoke with Mary at Newmar this morning, She indicated that Mark from Newmar Service will be scheduled to come take a look.
I will share my experience 😀😀
 
I believe the only difference in the two BIM's is the Li-BIM has a timer based charge interval while driving so as not to overload your alternator.
 
Kevin, we picked it up in November, technically last year, 🤣.
Unfortunately this has been our experience with new RVs In the first year.
The first few months of small issues that get resolved with warranty.
Consequently we go on short trips for the first six months to sort out all this stuff.
Once the initial problems settled down the RV should be good for five years or so of travel.
This one will probably be the last for us.
Good news according to Newmar, no Silverleaf on the DutchStar. So I don’t have that headache.
 

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