FYI Solar 101 - A General Guide to Solar in your RV or Motorhome

[Richpatty]

Good eye…. I forgot about that. The original wire was too short to reach the new location, so I spliced a black wire on to make it longer….

 

[Neal]

That "pink wire" was disconnected from mine for a while until I asked @Chuggs about it and saw his was connected. Yeah, it's too short for sure!

 

[Notsotalltexan]

Good eye…. I forgot about that. The original wire was too short to reach the new location, so I spaced a black wire on to make it longer….

Ah Ha, thank you. This really helps bring down my prior anxiety level. I printed both pictures. I also see that you had to remove the factory female termination connectors and replace with eyelets. That's probably not what they're called but you get it.
I recall removing the black plastic panel behind the shore power cord reel and saw where I think the location of the BIM is. Some of my A.M.Solar equipment starts arriving tomorrow, Monday. FedEx says, signature required.
I read that some recommend starting in the basement then mounting roof array last. Is that a good plan?

 

[Richpatty]

When I did my solar install, I did all of the basement work first, including wiring the controller to the batteries. That way, when I hooked up the panels, I could watch for the power from the panels appear on the controller, which in my case (Victron) I could see via Bluetooth. I also did the combiner box on the roof before the panels so I knew how long to cut the wires to the panels…

 

[Notsotalltexan]

When I did my solar install, I did all of the basement work first, including wiring the controller to the batteries. That way, when I hooked up the panels, I could watch for the power from the panels appear on the controller, which in my case (Victron) I could see via Bluetooth. I also did the combiner box on the roof before the panels so I knew how long to cut the wires to the panels…

Perfect Rich, thanks. That is what I'll follow. I noticed that on my RV control panel above passenger seat next to coach door, there is a small sticker that says solar prep. I recently measured for my array on the roof and found the metal piece, behind where Neal explained he fished out his wires. Is there anything behind that solar prep sticker? And, where do I locate the other end of those wires behind the metal cover on the roof? I apologize if this has been posted elsewhere before.

 

[Richpatty]

That sticker is there just to let you know that there is a cat5 connector behind that panel that runs to the basement. I did not use it since Victron had Bluetooth. It should be bundled in the basement with the wires from the roof…

 

[Notsotalltexan]

Thanks. Jack at A.M.Solar said they're selling me a Smart Shunt which will allow me to monitor my system via my smart phone.

 

[Richpatty]

Thanks. Jack at A.M.Solar said they're selling me a Smart Shunt which will allow me to monitor my system via my smart phone.

Yup. I have one as well. Remind me…. What solar controller are you using?

 

[Notsotalltexan]

I have not received it yet. Jack at A.M.Solar sized my system based upon what model coach I have and what I told him I was probably going to need especially that I was not going to be using my A/C when relying on solar power. It is a Victron 150 | 85. There will be six 200W 24V panels charging two LifeBlue 200Ah batteries. I'm trusting in his expertise. I think I'd feel better if I had requested a 150 | 100 but I'm deferring to his experience. I guess I could always add a smaller controller later.

 

[Richpatty]

Is that the one coming tomorrow?

 

[Notsotalltexan]

Is that the one coming tomorrow?

I've received several emails from FedEx about items drop shipped from various suppliers all ordered by A.M.Solar. Very likely the charge controller will be included in one of the boxes arriving tomorrow. I just watched a video by Garret at A.M.Solar regarding sizing the correct charge controller. The equation says solar array watts X .9 / 12V = amp output current. Since I will have a 1200Watt array x .9 / 12V I get 90 amp output current. The charge controller Jack at A.MSolar recommended is the 150 | 85. Garret said this difference won't hurt the controller, I just won't be getting the benefit of the additional amp current. At least that's how I understood it. The YouTube link.

 

[Richpatty]

And that is correct… which is why I have a 150/100 as I have 1440 watts. Also, the odds of getting all 1200 watts is pretty low. I think the best I have EVER seen is 1376 watts. But if you want to add more panels later, it could be a limiting factor…. But if you don’t, it will not be.

 

[Notsotalltexan]

Thanks Rich I am assuming I can call Richpatty Rich.

 

[Richpatty]

Thanks Rich I am assuming I can call Richpatty Rich.

Ha. Yup. Patty is my wife.

 

[Kevin D Pem]

It

I have not received it yet. Jack at A.M.Solar sized my system based upon what model coach I have and what I told him I was probably going to need especially that I was not going to be using my A/C when relying on solar power. It is a Victron 150 | 85. There will be six 200W 24V panels charging two LifeBlue 200Ah batteries. I'm trusting in his expertise. I think I'd feel better if I had requested a 150 | 100 but I'm deferring to his experience. I guess I could always add a smaller controller later.

You well known in the industry (electronics), that it's best to oversize your electronic components. Just remember that salesmen are salesmen. The engineers that designed the unit stated what were safe limits for reliability.

The controller is not a limiting device, this statement is very important to remember. If the stated wattage in panels is exceeded it will be failure time. (Yes components were oversized), but not for the capacity, but reliability.

It is known that the panels were rated in the lab environment, and will likely never produce the rated output. . There is one Time that they have been known to peak. The cloud effect.

Because I rely on solar, I use smaller repetitive systems, (One down three to go type system). That sets my system with 4 60amp controllers. The manuals I have rate a 60amp controller to handle at 12v system 720 watts of panels. 24v system 1440 watts of panels. This would be battery system voltage, and nothing to do with panel voltage.

For a little more information, mppt controllers are smart boost converters. These converters are most efficient at no more than 2.5 volt difference between high and low sides.

I wish you luck on your installation.