Richpatty
RVF Supporter
- Joined
- Nov 2, 2019
- Messages
- 900
- Location
- Wesley Chapel, NC
- RV Year
- 2017
- RV Make
- Newmar
- RV Model
- Ventana 4310
- RV Length
- 43
- Chassis
- Freightliner
- Engine
- 400hp
- TOW/TOAD
- 2007 CR-V
- Fulltimer
- No
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Ah Ha, thank you. This really helps bring down my prior anxiety level. I printed both pictures. I also see that you had to remove the factory female termination connectors and replace with eyelets. That's probably not what they're called but you get it.Good eye…. I forgot about that. The original wire was too short to reach the new location, so I spaced a black wire on to make it longer….
Perfect Rich, thanks. That is what I'll follow. I noticed that on my RV control panel above passenger seat next to coach door, there is a small sticker that says solar prep. I recently measured for my array on the roof and found the metal piece, behind where Neal explained he fished out his wires. Is there anything behind that solar prep sticker? And, where do I locate the other end of those wires behind the metal cover on the roof? I apologize if this has been posted elsewhere before.When I did my solar install, I did all of the basement work first, including wiring the controller to the batteries. That way, when I hooked up the panels, I could watch for the power from the panels appear on the controller, which in my case (Victron) I could see via Bluetooth. I also did the combiner box on the roof before the panels so I knew how long to cut the wires to the panels…
Yup. I have one as well. Remind me…. What solar controller are you using?Thanks. Jack at A.M.Solar said they're selling me a Smart Shunt which will allow me to monitor my system via my smart phone.
I've received several emails from FedEx about items drop shipped from various suppliers all ordered by A.M.Solar. Very likely the charge controller will be included in one of the boxes arriving tomorrow. I just watched a video by Garret at A.M.Solar regarding sizing the correct charge controller. The equation says solar array watts X .9 / 12V = amp output current. Since I will have a 1200Watt array x .9 / 12V I get 90 amp output current. The charge controller Jack at A.MSolar recommended is the 150 | 85. Garret said this difference won't hurt the controller, I just won't be getting the benefit of the additional amp current. At least that's how I understood it. The YouTube link.Is that the one coming tomorrow?
Ha. Yup. Patty is my wife.Thanks Rich I am assuming I can call Richpatty Rich.
You well known in the industry (electronics), that it's best to oversize your electronic components. Just remember that salesmen are salesmen. The engineers that designed the unit stated what were safe limits for reliability.I have not received it yet. Jack at A.M.Solar sized my system based upon what model coach I have and what I told him I was probably going to need especially that I was not going to be using my A/C when relying on solar power. It is a Victron 150 | 85. There will be six 200W 24V panels charging two LifeBlue 200Ah batteries. I'm trusting in his expertise. I think I'd feel better if I had requested a 150 | 100 but I'm deferring to his experience. I guess I could always add a smaller controller later.
Hey Neal--That "pink wire" was disconnected from mine for a while until I asked @Chuggs about it and saw his was connected. Yeah, it's too short for sure!
Thank you Kevin.It
You well known in the industry (electronics), that it's best to oversize your electronic components. Just remember that salesmen are salesmen. The engineers that designed the unit stated what were safe limits for reliability.
The controller is not a limiting device, this statement is very important to remember. If the stated wattage in panels is exceeded it will be failure time. (Yes components were oversized), but not for the capacity, but reliability.
It is known that the panels were rated in the lab environment, and will likely never produce the rated output. . There is one Time that they have been known to peak. The cloud effect.
Because I rely on solar, I use smaller repetitive systems, (One down three to go type system). That sets my system with 4 60amp controllers. The manuals I have rate a 60amp controller to handle at 12v system 720 watts of panels. 24v system 1440 watts of panels. This would be battery system voltage, and nothing to do with panel voltage.
For a little more information, mppt controllers are smart boost converters. These converters are most efficient at no more than 2.5 volt difference between high and low sides.
I wish you luck on your installation.
Thank you. I will opt for the battery compartment due to ample room. BTW, my eight batteries were all replaced by original owner in 2020. He accidently frozen his 2017 factory flooded batteries. He replaced them with Duracell, 6V. I guess they're in series so 12V system. I'll try to sell them locally since they've still got lots of life left. I might post them here. Maybe someone in Texas might be interested. They'd be great for a golf cart too.Glad you got it and you're welcome.
I mounted mine between the chassis rails in the slideout bay. Bad idea as I later got HWH Active Air and that's where that controller should have gone but my stuff was in the way. If I did it over again I'd put it closer to the basement door driver's side just opposite the batteries on the wall. If going LifePO4 then in the battery compartment itself.
Good Morning Rich--I did the same as Neal (between chassis rails), but then moved it for ease of access to the battery compartment when I re-did my battery compartment for lithiums.
No sure if putting the controller in the battery area when it is open to the environment would be good for it?