Welcome to RVForums.com

  • Register now and join the discussion
  • Friendliest RV Community on the web
  • Modern site for PC's, Phones, Tablets - no 3rd party apps required
  • Ask questions, help others, review campgrounds
  • Get the most out of the RV Lifestyle
  • Invite everyone to RVForums.com and let's have fun
  • Commercial/Vendors welcome

Torque Wrench for WD Hitch Nylock Nuts

Welcome to RVForums.com

  • Register now and join the discussion
  • Modern secure site, no 3rd party apps required
  • Invite your friends and let's have fun
  • Commercial/Vendors welcome
  • Friendliest RV community on the web

dolfinwriter

RVF Regular
Joined
Oct 24, 2020
Messages
10
Is this the right thread for this, first of all?

I'm trying to install a weight distribution hitch to haul my trailer of stuff from east county San Diego California to Kansas. It's a 7' x 14' cargo trailer and about 6500 lbs GTW, and I didn't need much convincing of the need for a WD and sway reduction/prevention hitch.

Here's my problem: I need a torque wrench capable of 380 ft-lbs to torque two nylock nuts. NO ONE has a torque wrench that will go above 250 ft-lbs. I've tried Autozone, Pep Boys, O'reilly, Trailer supply stores, RV dealers, tire shops, Harbor Freight, pawn shops, Lowe's, Home Depot...

How does ANYONE do this? Or is everyone who uses a hitch like this blowing off the torque spec? The BALL is supposed to be torqued to 360 ft-lbs., and LOTS of places sell hitches and balls, but NO ONE has a torque wrench capable of properly torquing it, neither to rent nor to buy or loan.

How does ANYONE do this properly if you can't get this one tool needed to do it right?

What am I missing?

I would greatly appreciate any help in this area.
 
Welcome to RVF, @dolfinwriter; glad you found us. And, I think you are in the right forum.

Now, as to "380 ft-lbs" of torque, are you sure it isn't 380 inch-lbs? That would be about 32 ft-lbs. I don't know what size bolts you are torquing, but they'd better be big ones to need 380 ft-lbs! What size bolts are involved?

There's a reason you don't see many torque wrenches out there that go beyond 250 ft-lbs; not many folks need them. That's getting up unto the heavy equipment category.

TJ
 
Here is a YouTube video on how to do it without the correct torque wrench

 
Welcome to RVF, @dolfinwriter; glad you found us. And, I think you are in the right forum.

Now, as to "380 ft-lbs" of torque, are you sure it isn't 380 inch-lbs? That would be about 32 ft-lbs. I don't know what size bolts you are torquing, but they'd better be big ones to need 380 ft-lbs! What size bolts are involved?

There's a reason you don't see many torque wrenches out there that go beyond 250 ft-lbs; not many folks need them. That's getting up unto the heavy equipment category.

TJ
7/8 grade 8 has a toque that high. I Don't worry about it as there is a lock washer on the nut. If the hitch could be tightened so there was no movement I would worry more. More like a pin, I just worry that the bolt is not going to come loose. If I stand on 1.5ft cheater bar I have about 380 and that is good to go for me.
 
Welcome to RVF, @dolfinwriter; glad you found us. And, I think you are in the right forum.

Now, as to "380 ft-lbs" of torque, are you sure it isn't 380 inch-lbs? That would be about 32 ft-lbs. I don't know what size bolts you are torquing, but they'd better be big ones to need 380 ft-lbs! What size bolts are involved?

There's a reason you don't see many torque wrenches out there that go beyond 250 ft-lbs; not many folks need them. That's getting up unto the heavy equipment category.

TJ
Nope
 

Attachments

  • Hitch.jpg
    Hitch.jpg
    119.3 KB · Views: 28
7/8 grade 8 has a toque that high. I Don't worry about it as there is a lock washer on the nut. If the hitch could be tightened so there was no movement I would worry more. More like a pin, I just worry that the bolt is not going to come loose. If I stand on 1.5ft cheater bar I have about 380 and that is good to go for me.
You are correct that a 7/8" Grade 8 bolt has torque specs that high. The chart I have shows the 3/4" Grade 8 maxing out at 313 ft/lbs. I doubt that hitch manufacturers use Grade 8s, but I guess it is possible.

I was originally thinking that the bolts being referred to were simply frame attachment bolts and would be something along the lines of 3/8. I stand corrected.

TJ
 
Some of us can’t leave California fast enough, eh @dolfinwriter? I also live in East County San Diego and must’ve had two or three different friends leave in the past 12 months. Sorry for the subject change. Good luck and safe travels!
 
Some of us can’t leave California fast enough, eh @dolfinwriter? I also live in East County San Diego and must’ve had two or three different friends leave in the past 12 months. Sorry for the subject change
Oh, you got that right. We've had enough, and it's almost certainly going to get worse. I guess they figure as long as the demand for housing outstrips the supply, then they can keep doing all the stupid things they're doing. But at some level, they HAVE to know--when they want to implement a special tax on anyone with more than $10 Million net worth (or was it $10 Million income?), and make it still a legal obligation even if they move out of state... Not sure how they believe they will legally collect it from someone who has moved to NH or Texas or Idaho.
 
After lining up all the bolts and checking them against the manual and kind of mock-up test fitting, they left off a 1-1/16" socket for the nylock nut on the 3/4" bolt and a 5/8" open end wrench for the square head frame bracket bolts. I could use a Crescent hammer for those, but adjustable wrench isn't listed either.

So thank you to the person on another forum who mentioned the bolt hex head size vs. bolt diameter, because that prompted me to verify everything I need.

The 3/4" bolt hex head is 1-1/8", but the nylock nuts on those bolts are 1-1/16". Those 1-1/16" nylock nuts are the ones that need to be torqued to 380 ft-lbs.

The install instructions leave a bit to be desired. Maybe they're written "correctly" for the way engineers think and talk, but most people putting this together won't be engineers. And still, the list of required tools leaves off some tools that are needed. If you assume that a 3/4" bolt means both hex head and nylock nuts are 1-1/8", then you'd be wrong.

What amazes me is the most common response I have gotten is to take it to a semi or big rig maintenance facility and bother them to borrow a proper torque wrench for this. Is that really what most people who are doctors, lawyers, cybersecurity professionals, carpenters, electricians, teachers, bankers, police officers... do? I doubt most people even know where to find one.

Probably the second most common is some version of a "calibrated elbow" approach. I don't torque spec every single thing I work on that lists a torque spec, but torque specs exist to ensure that things are properly tightened, but at the same time not OVER-tightened. This seems like something where it is really important to get it right. One of the reviews of this was a user who winged it, and down the road it came loose. He was smart enough to be checking it at intervals, so he caught it and had tools to tighten it. But would it have come loose at all if he'd gotten the torque to spec to begin with?

And RV dealers and trailer supply stores have NOTHING to do this properly. THAT blows my mind.

So I bought a 3/4" breaker bar, a 3/4" torque adapter (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009GLITFW/?tag=rvf01-20), and a 3/4" 6-pt impact rated socket set w/ratchet and extensions. It's costing me about as much as the proper rated torque wrench by itself, but I'll do this right and I'll have some versatile tools for future use.
 

Latest resources

Back
Top