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How To Verify your ITR OASIS Two Electric Burners are working

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My understanding heating elements are 5000 BTU each (net 10K BTU when using AC I/II). The burner is 50K BTU.

Yes went back to manual and both elements are 1500W, 120 VAC so they are the same. Makes sense they both show same amperage draw. Thanks
 
My understanding heating elements are 5000 BTU each (net 10K BTU when using AC I/II). The burner is 50K BTU.
I think they are rated in watts, not BTU, but I could be mistaken. The 12A increase when you turn one on confirms the 1,500W rating (120V x 12A = 1440 W...close enough to the 1500W rating).

TJ
 
In my coach for example you can put the switch to AC I/II but only one leg exists on 30A service. @Chuggs maybe you can chime in? The green light will come on but it doesn't mean you have both heating elements in use. I really don't know how the 30A works between L1 and L2. Maybe something manages which path the trons take. Thinking about how Air Conditioners on the roof handle this, I don't think everything is on just one line so I'm stumped.

They should both work...EXCEPT...the mgmt system may load shed one.

Background... Yes, when connected to 50A shore power...the coach has two legs. Each distributed to our breaker panel by means of the 50A breakers.

When connected to 30A...the dog one adapter tied a single leg of 120v line power to both of those 50A. Of course, we could easily overload the 30A source and trip the 30A breaker in the pedastle, were it not for the management system in our coaches designed to shed loads as needed.

if you turn your a/c(heat pumps)..you should be able to see the amperage draw from both electric elements. If you don’t...there should be a corresponding amp reading next to the element on the list of shed items. The reading is the amount of amp “overhead” required for the system to automatically reinstate that item.
 
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Guess the myth of only using AC I is incorrect. You can use AC I/II and utilize both burners then but EMS may load shed. Not sure where these burners are in priority in EMS shedding. Good info share ALL.
 
I’m stumped.
Today I opened the main panel and checked all leads with wolf meter. Both L1 and L2 are getting 120V.
But on the Power Control Monitor, I’m getting L2 7V like the picture I posed yesterday.
Turned off the shore power and fired up the generator. No change. L1 shows 7V. Any ideas?
Check to make sure the engine heater breaker is on. Had a similar issue and it turned out the power management system was getting one lead data from the output side of the engine heater breaker.
 
Guess the myth of only using AC I is incorrect. You can use AC I/II and utilize both burners then but EMS may load shed. Not sure where these burners are in priority in EMS shedding. Good info share ALL.

The order is programmed by Newmar. As you page thru the displays...the items and the order are listed On the Load Status pages. Beginning with the Block Heater and ending with the Front A/C unit.

Block Heater
Water Heat 2
Water Heat 1
A/C Middle
A/C Rear
A/C Front

That is the order programmed on my Coaches system.
 
You are right, I sent an email to Precision Circuits Sunday around 6PM. George called me around 8PM the same day, and told me to check for any breakers turned OFF. Sure enough, my "Block Heater" breaker was OFF (who needs it in FL?). After turning it ON, L2 worked. That's the good news.
The bad news is AC2 on the Oasis does not work. Got to open it AGAIN ?
 
You are right, I sent an email to Precision Circuits Sunday around 6PM. George called me around 8PM the same day, and told me to check for any breakers turned OFF. Sure enough, my "Block Heater" breaker was OFF (who needs it in FL?). After turning it ON, L2 worked. That's the good news.
The bad news is AC2 on the Oasis does not work. Got to open it AGAIN ?

Interesting, I could see me flipping the breaker on engine heat. Sorry you have to open it back up but glad it’s figured out
 
That is just weird...

I guess the Precision Circuits thingy must get something from the Block Heater relay, built into the load center??

Oh well...

incidentally, we use our block heater all the time in Florida... well, kinda. See I added an outlet in the bedroom below the full length mirror for an oscillating tower fan. We like air circulation, and hated running the power cord up behind the tv. My outlet is powered by a plug,,,which we could connect to a 12Ga extension cord to work directly from the pedastle if we needed to run a space heater...but normally I plug into an outlet I added to the block heater branch. Weatherproof outdoor box located in the DEF compartment. I’m glad you raised the subject...b/c I was thinking of adding a switch to allow me to select inverter power for that outlet...but that would definitely be bad if the management/distribution circuit sees that. It would probably confuse the heck out of the system.

For heating the engine on the rate occasion...I had added the switch and pump to the Oasis... Works great.
 
"I guess the Precision Circuits thingy must get something from the Block Heater relay, built into the load center??"
Chuggs,
If ANY breaker is OFF, it may affect the correct readings of the panel? I know it is weird, but that what they told me.
 
"I guess the Precision Circuits thingy must get something from the Block Heater relay, built into the load center??"
Chuggs,
If ANY breaker is OFF, it may affect the correct readings of the panel? I know it is weird, but that what they told me.
I think I understand now... The Management system is getting power from the relay controlled circuits. In my case the L1 sense is connected to Water Heater 2 circuit and L2 sense is connected to the Block Heater circuit. If I turn one of those circuit breakers off...it would take away the power and line sensing for the management panel. That's why you have to have these breakers ON. If you, for example, flipped the washer or dryer circuits off...it should have no effect.

I will have to dig out my pdf file in the wiring. I know the distribution panel gets amp readings by inductive coils that watch the Line 1 and Line 2 coming into the 50A main breakers...It gets voltage from Line 1 and Line 2 so that it can compare..., display the two voltages, and be powered. The comparison allows it to decide if you have a 50A connection or a 30A (default, if not 50A) source. If the potential across L1 to L2 is 240V you have 50A...if it is Zero and it has power...it assumes 30A. 20A or 15A can be manually set.
 
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For those that might get confused while looking at L1 & L2 to see if both sides of your Oasis electrical circuits are working, try this simplistic approach:
Unplug the coach and start your generator. Flip the Oasis ACl on and the generator will rev up. Flip the switch to ACll and the generator will rev even higher. You now know both elements are working as the generator sensed the two loads.
 

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