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Resolved 30amp 110 Fuse box overheating, wires burnt

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TXfreeze

RVF VIP
Joined
Jan 6, 2021
Messages
293
RV Year
2003
RV Make
Holiday Rambler
RV Model
Endeavor
RV Length
38
Chassis
Roadmaster
Engine
350 Cummins
TOW/TOAD
None
Fulltimer
Yes
We've been smelling electrical.burn smell and thank the Lord we found out what it was before we had a catastrophe on our hands. The fuse box was where the smell was coming from and temp readings were as high as 112 F. I turned off the main breaker and let it cool down. After the temps cooled down and when it got down into the 90s I turned it back on and when the breaker switch was touched we heard a sizzle bees like sound and shut it off. We decided the best thing was to keep it off for now and turned off the 30 amp on shore power just to be safe so we're currently off grid but paying for power. Attached are a few pictures of the wiring where you can see one of the wires is damaged. As to how this happened we have a theory that when the AC was running and the compressor was struggling there was a significant amount of heat in the fuse box and that may have caused the damage and continuing to use the blower fan alone may have aggravated the situation. We don't have a RV repair in the area the closest will charge $100 just to come out so if there's any way to DIY, Lowe's should be open tomorrow and should be able to pick up the necessary wiring.maybe splice in new wire?
 

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OK.....it appears that what you're trying to show us is the bottom terminal of a circuit breaker. Is it the breaker for the A/C?
If so, I'd advise a new breaker. You probably won't have to splice in any wire....there should be enough there to just trim back an inch and re-terminate to the new breaker. What most likely has happened is that over time, that terminal screw loosened up, causing a poor connection......poor connections cause heat and higher amperage draws. Higher amperage causes more heat, and the cycle repeats.
Swap in a new breaker of the same type and amp rating, re-terminate your wire(s), and check ALL the rest of the breaker screws while you're there.

I shouldn't have to say......do this with electrical power disconnected. Not just turned off, but the cord unplugged too.

OH.....I see now that it's a ground wire in the grounding bus bar that's cooked. THAT ain't right......ground wires aren't supposed to be carrying current unless there's a short in an appliance, and then it's only for about 1/2 a second. Grounding is there for your safety. I suggest you consult an electrician, even if you have to tow it to their shop.

Roger
 
I would hire an electrician to redo everything in the box. It looks pretty bad to me?
 
Talk about not seeing the forest through the trees!

Turn the phone on it's side, and give us a full picture of the wires! You give us burned wire, but no full picture. My eyes keep running off the picture while trying to trace the wires! I am afraid I will damage My eye's when they fall 😁

From what I see, the white (neutral/Common) wire along the bottom has lost it's insulation. The worst of it is closer to the neutral buss bar. That is common when screws are loose.

I would get a new bar from home Depot that will fit in the box, and land the neutrals on the new bar.

Any fried wires that will not reach when shortened, simply wire nut a pigtail to it so it will.

Takes time,but it's not rocket science.
 
Talk about not seeing the forest through the trees!

Turn the phone on it's side, and give us a full picture of the wires! You give us burned wire, but no full picture. My eyes keep running off the picture while trying to trace the wires! I am afraid I will damage My eye's when they fall 😁

From what I see, the white (neutral/Common) wire along the bottom has lost it's insulation. The worst of it is closer to the neutral buss bar. That is common when screws are loose.

I would get a new bar from home Depot that will fit in the box, and land the neutrals on the new bar.

Any fried wires that will not reach when shortened, simply wire nut a pigtail to it so it will.

Takes time,but it's not rocket science.
Yeah
I would hire an electrician to redo everything in the box. It looks pretty bad to me?
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sorry about that , here's a landscaped picture attached as you can see I've removed the main breaker and Air Con breaker and detached the corresponding wires as well as detached one of the damaged wires from the bar, this was before I saw your reply. We don't have Home Depot only Lowe's and Harbor Freight, so I'm going to see if I can replace the 2 breakers, get some 30amp rated copper wire and wire nut, but I may not have to since there seems to be some slack in the wire harness I may just be able to strip and pull out good wire. Will keep you posted. Thanks
 

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How does the shore cord look? This appears to be a direct short.
 
The shore cord looks fine from the pole to the junction box in the hookups bay. I don't think it's a direct short I think its due to the AC compressor overheating the wires, the AC breaker did trip a few times and now we know why. To make matters worse, we have been keeping our electric water heater on too long.
How does the shore cord look? This appears to be a direct short.
The gal at Lowes was very knowledgeable having lived in a RV conversion, she hooked me up with replacement breakers, bus bars and connectors, I didn't bring a piece of wire to match, she said that would have been best I insisted so she cut me 4 1 foot wires, unfortunately joining wires with a wire nut is turning into a daunting task and getting the breakers seated and connected as well. Well iit's late and I'm tired I will resume tomorrow but I have a higher priority with a break leak still on the rear line and Beryl making landfall somewhere near here in Kingsville, so far we've dodged a few bullets but if I don't get that brake issue sorted we could be sitting ducks.
Lowes works
 
Very interesting thread, Thanks all. It sounds to me like you're on the right track. I agree, the cause probably was a loose screw. I've been told I have a few myself, could be as I have a few un-explained things occasionally going on myself!! LOL I know what you mean when you say wire nutting the wires is turning out to be a daunting task!! I've never seen an electrical box, breaker box almost anything electrical with room enough to work! Good luck with everything, please keep us up to date.
 
There.....your second set of pics helps. I see a two-fold problem. It looks as if that box has been wet more than once, and the steel screws have rusted, initiating the overall problem. The rust starts the resistance and poor connection issue. As was stated, you're on the right path. New bus bars and wire pigtails should solve your electrical problem(s).

Roger
 
Btw… maybe use Wego clips instead of wire nuts…. They made hold together better.
 
There.....your second set of pics helps. I see a two-fold problem. It looks as if that box has been wet more than once, and the steel screws have rusted, initiating the overall problem. The rust starts the resistance and poor connection issue. As was stated, you're on the right path. New bus bars and wire pigtails should solve your electrical problem(s).

Roger
Great call!!! Be good to check out that at the same time!

That box has plenty of room for some wire nuts!
 
The shore cord looks fine from the pole to the junction box in the hookups bay. I don't think it's a direct short I think its due to the AC compressor overheating the wires, the AC breaker did trip a few times and now we know why. To make matters worse, we have been keeping our electric water heater on too long.
How does the shore cord look? This appears to be a direct short.

Lowes works

Very interesting thread, Thanks all. It sounds to me like you're on the right track. I agree, the cause probably was a loose screw. I've been told I have a few myself, could be as I have a few un-explained things occasionally going on myself!! LOL I know what you mean when you say wire nutting the wires is turning out to be a daunting task!! I've never seen an electrical box, breaker box almost anything electrical with room enough to work! Good luck with everything, please keep us up to date.
Yes it could have been a loose screw on the bar or one of the breakers. Daunting because the wires are so thick to work with and like to you said not enough room in the breaker box. Will update soon I hope. Thanks
 
Talk about not seeing the forest through the trees!

Turn the phone on it's side, and give us a full picture of the wires! You give us burned wire, but no full picture. My eyes keep running off the picture while trying to trace the wires! I am afraid I will damage My eye's when they fall 😁

From what I see, the white (neutral/Common) wire along the bottom has lost it's insulation. The worst of it is closer to the neutral buss bar. That is common when screws are loose.

I would get a new bar from home Depot that will fit in the box, and land the neutrals on the new bar.

Any fried wires that will not reach when shortened, simply wire nut a pigtail to it so it will.

Takes time,but it's not rocket science.
Yea sorry about that , here's a landscaped picture attached as you can see I've removed the main breaker and Air Con breaker and detaches the corresponding wires and detaches one of the damaged wires from the bar, this was before I saw you reply. We don't have Home Depot only Lowe's and Harbor Freight, so I'm going to see if I can get replace the 2 breakers get some 30amp rated copper wire and wire nut but I may not have to since there seems to be some slack in the wire harness I may just be able to strip and pull out good wire. Will keep you posted. Thanks
 
Well I'll be continuing today, going to have to use heatshrink on the bare wire and probably the wire pigtails since I'm not having much success with the wire nuts, attached are some current progress photos, including what I have to work with from Lowe's. I just need a temporary fix, so I can focus on the higher priority repairing the break line once done with that i can put all myattention on the electric.received_26269971432593819.jpegreceived_2594688970713361.jpegreceived_829504882578998.jpeg
 

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Typo…. Wago connectors….
Thanks for the suggestion but due to the tight space and thickness of the wires I'm going with heat shrink tubing.
 

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