Welcome to RVForums.com

  • Register now and join the discussion
  • Friendliest RV Community on the web
  • Modern site for PC's, Phones, Tablets - no 3rd party apps required
  • Ask questions, help others, review campgrounds
  • Get the most out of the RV Lifestyle
  • Invite everyone to RVForums.com and let's have fun
  • Commercial/Vendors welcome

Question Installing an ignition switch?

Welcome to RVForums.com

  • Register now and join the discussion
  • Modern secure site, no 3rd party apps required
  • Invite your friends and let's have fun
  • Commercial/Vendors welcome
  • Friendliest RV community on the web

TJ&LadyDi

RVF "Dinosaur"
Joined
Nov 2, 2019
Messages
4,082
Location
Washington State
I received the new ignition switch for the 2018 Mountain Aire from Spartan today and am hoping it will solve the engine shut-off problem discussed in a previous thread. I plan to install it myself and could use some advice.

Examining the new switch, I can see that it connects to the electrical system via a single, six-pin insulated square plug. Simple enough. The biggest issue will be accessing it. There appears to be a small, removable panel (4 screws) at the bottom of the dash that looks to be in the right position to gain limited access to the back of the switch. Hopefully, I can unscrew the bezel and pull the old switch down to swap in the new one. Has anyone changed out one of these switches? Is the panel I’m seeing likely to be for that purpose.

I am thinking that I should disconnect both the house and chassis batteries (via the appropriate disconnect switches) prior to making the electrical swap. Given the insulated, modular plug connection, that may not be necessary but I’d prefer to be safe rather than sorry. Is there any issue with both sets of batteries being disconnected at the same time for a period of time; probably 15-30 minutes? I’m wondering about things like system computers losing losing settings/parameters, etc. Any thoughts?

Any other advice would also be gratefully received. Many thanks.

TJ
 
Can’t help but I’ll cross my fingers and toes that it all goes smoothly for you and solves the issue
 
Post a picture. Usually a lock ring holds it in place. Remove the ring, and the switch should go "into" dash, and be removed from behind like you said.
 
Having both switches off at the same time should not be a concern. Actually there is no reason to turn them off at all, but if you do, not to worry. Sure hope that solves the engine running situation.
 
Prayer Please GIF by Rosanna Pansino
 
I know you have probably thought about this but is there anything on You Tube on the switch. Often I find information there on projects that come up. Good luck.
 
Not sure if this helps but informative none the less

 
@TJ&LadyDi ... did you get it installed?

FLSteve
 
@TJ&LadyDi ... did you get it installed?

FLSteve
It is on the list for this week. Since we’re still several weeks out on the air conditioner replacement, we won’t be using the coach for a while. I’ll report on the install as soon as I get it done.

TJ
 
UPDATE: The new ignition switch has been “installed” but not yet tested. It was a bit of a bear since I had to removed the whole center dash console to access the switch body. And—naturally—it takes a special, three-point tool to loosen/tighten the bezel nut. Guess who didn’t have one and couldn’t find one locally. Yep, yours truly.

So, I consulted the “experts” on U-Tube. And, found a workaround there. Sometimes you have to think outside the box (hard for a dinosaur to do; easier for U-Tubers)! Instead of trying to rotate the bezel nut, the U-Tube video suggested rotating the switch body instead until the bezel nut was loose enough to rotate from the front. Excellent suggestion! I was able to get a pair of channel lock pliers on the switch body and rotate it in the opposite direction to begin the loosening process. Being able to disconnect the wiring at the switch via a nice 6-pin connector sure helped! After about a half turn of the switch body, the bezel nut was loose enough to rotate from the front and remove the old switch.

Installing the new switch was a similar process except that I had to keep adjusting the position of the bezel nut in order to get the switch in the proper orientation (key vertical, start position to the right) when it was tight. That was a bit tedious, but we finally got it done.

By the time I got to that point, I was ready for a break, so I’ll leave the center dash console reinstall and switch testing for tomorrow. At least I got the switch installed.

TJ
 

Latest resources

Back
Top